VolvoHordz;c-156360 wroteDon't know why people are talking about adjusting the rod in the slave cylinder. Why do you think Volvo swapped to a non adjustable type? It's because it doesn't need adjusting.
When you push in the clutch pedal, it moves the piston in the slave cylinder a fixed amount. Assuming the system is all working perfect, it will always move the same distance.
Given that there is no return spring, you should also note that with the clutch not pushed in, the clutch fork will still be in a position lightly pushing the throw out bearing against the pressure plate.
Given the above are both fixed factors, the only thing that will change by lengthening or shortening the rod in the slave cylinder is that you will change the depth that the piston in the slave cylinder is sitting at. It will not change how far it moves and hence will not change if or not the clutch will disengage fully.
OK, so my clutch is all working OK/normal. Then I go down and make the rod longer - what does it do? It doesn’t force itself back into the slave cylinder. It pushes the clutch fork rearward, so if my system was working fine before, I could now have a situation where the clutch release bearing is pressing harder on the pressure plate, and I could get slippage. That’s how I understand it - which is different than how you understand it.
In other words, if you were to make the rod too long, it would prevent the clutch fork from returning home and could allow the clutch to slip.
Also, if you made the rod very short, there may be a lot of free play between the rod and the clutch fork, which would then mean when you press the clutch the rod would have to move a lot to take up the slack resulting in possible lack of full clutch plate disengagement and difficult shifting into reverse.
I doubt the rod length is this poster’s problem though, unless it has been mucked with.