Bens Blue Brick

pineappleben (@pineapple) Northern beaches NSW
edited February 25 in RWD
Probably should’ve started this post 4 or so 240s ago,
I tried moving away and bought a normal car, it blew up.
I got another 240

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350000kms-ish
1982 build date
Two previous owners
B23e
By the sounds of it k cam
Fairly consistent service history although the motor doesn’t reflect that
Lovell’s springs and swaybars
Flat boot and coffin hood
Oil consumption comparable to a rotary
Rust spot in lower passenger side windscreen corner
Roof racks
Tow bar
Fairly beat up paint, was a country car. boot and roof both faded and bonnet is peeling clear coat
M46 with a crunchy 3rd

It got me 1000kms home no dramas so I have faith in it

To bring you up to speed from the past month or so.

I’ve acquired the wheels from @Klaptrap24 ‘s old wagon setup and am currently running them, the guards are out a stupid amount with the wheels still poking 30mm. Considering buying bolt on flares to semi get away with it

I was stupid with the exhaust and removed the rear muffler and put some twin 2.5” blast pipes on
It backfires A LOT on decel
I regret this now as it idles at 116db
Should I go for a big chambered muffler up towards where the cat is on later models to bring it back into legal spec?

Plugged up and deleted the pulse air system, if anyone has the actual head plugs that’d be handy
Also deleted the exhaust preheat setup

I went to the wreckers the other day to try and score a front end conversion, ended up getting a flat hood for a mates project along with a drivers wind deflector and headrest cushion

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Next move will probably be a little more maintenance, will try flushing the gearbox with atf type f and see if it makes any difference, the tacho is completely dead, haven’t looked into it yet as with past experiences with redblocks it’s fairly easy to listen to the motor, any recommendations on common issues with them would be handy, I’m hopefully picking up a decent bucket seat on the weekend and then I’ll be making brackets for it, might have a look at removing the AC lines and condenser and some other unnecessary weight

Don’t really have an overall vision for the car, it was dirt cheap and was never going to be a clean collectors car so I’m happy to ruin it a little bit and have fun with it, mainly looking at handling improvements currently. It still keeps up well around twisty roads minus the solid axle open diff rear on cheap tyres wanting to slide all over the place

I hope I’ve annoyed the old fellas and inspired the young ones reading this 😘

Cheers all
bgpzfm142nugget_940carnut222goodenough

Comments

  • Sorry, old fellas like me only get annoyed when a mint example gets farked around with =) the roughies are for fun, enjoy!
    pineapple
  • pineappleben (@pineapple) Northern beaches NSW
    NZNmbrwh.jpg

    Picked up a set of gle gauges the other day and I’ve whacked them in, anyone able to link me a guide on wiring them in? Or is there a loom hiding somewhere that’ll plug right in? (82 gl)
    Cheers

    Second clock will eventually be something else, just looks good fit the time being
  • Nice! There’s no loom for the gauges on the car so you’ll have to make something up depending on how much wire pigtail (if any) you got with the gauges. Wiring them up is pretty straightforward. Pretty sure the gauges have some indicators moulded into the back by the terminals that say + and - and “g” or something like that for the sender wire. For the volt gauge just hook it up to a switched 12V supply (for example the fuse for the radio). For temp sensor hook up to the same 12V supply and then you’ll need the temp sender which has a variable resistance to earth/ground. The other wiring for the lights you should be able to tap into the clock light wiring. Might be worth bypassing the instrument lighting dimmer switch as who ever dims it anyway and they don’t work well with all the gauges when they get old and corroded. IIRC You can just move one of the spade connectors on the dimmer so they’re both on the same side and it is bypassed. Lemme know if you need further info...guess it depends on how confident you are with 12V wiring but we can step you through it if you need help.
  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    I recal that temp senders are nla?
    cancer sucks
  • I recal that temp senders are nla?

    I think somebody posted that there’s a VDO one available?
  • BigglesJacob (@Biggles) Sunshine Coast QLD
    I recal that temp senders are nla?

    I think somebody posted that there’s a VDO one available?

    VDO 323-087 is the right sender, I got mine through eGauges.com a couple of years ago but the site seems to be dead/broken now.
  • pineappleben (@pineapple) Northern beaches NSW
    Temp gauge has a wire with a fitting on the end similar to a male tv aerial fitting, does the sender plug into that?
    Also the other gauge you can’t see, the fuel economy gauge; where should I plumb that into? Just anywhere on the intake?

    WAxHdWkh.jpg

    Another picture for your troubles
    nugget_940
  • BigglesJacob (@Biggles) Sunshine Coast QLD
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    It’s just a ring terminal onto the OAT sensor.

    For my car it turned out the vacuum gauge only seemed to work properly on the port on the intake manifold that connects to the flame trap, between the 3rd and 4th cylinder pipes. No idea why, I had tried elsewhere on the manifold before with no success.
    pineapple
  • pineappleben (@pineapple) Northern beaches NSW
    Playing around with the gauges tonight, on another note
    Does anyone want to sell me a cheap semi-long block I can start building now that I have garage space? My oil consumption is getting pretty bad, I hit 360000kms last night and my driving style isn’t really helping the longevity of the current motor.

    Preferably a post 85’ or so Lh block, not too bothered about b234s or anything, just something to do a complete stage zero on and build cheaply for low boost fun

    I’m aware of kjet-Lh compatibility, have a few plans at the moment not sure which I’ll go with yet
  • pineappleben (@pineapple) Northern beaches NSW
    3FS5sYph.jpg

    Went to chuck atf in the m46 today and worked out my crunchy third issue
    Love finding more stuff to fix
    Anyone got an m46 by itself that shifts smoothly?
  • I have a M46 that feels smooth to turn and shift, but I'm a fair way away in SE SA. There might be a closer one.
    pineapple
  • pineappleben (@pineapple) Northern beaches NSW
    Cheers @Roinik I’ll keep it in mind
  • 240240 (@240) Canberra
    @pineapple I will have an m46 for sale soonish, it's not perfect as the shift from 3rd to 2nd isn't great, but would be ok if you just need a box that works
  • Cheers @Roinik I’ll keep it in mind

    I can pull the guts out of the box as I only got it for the OD and solenoid.
    pineapple
  • pineappleben (@pineapple) Northern beaches NSW
    I did a thing again and no longer have this, I am now silver w2nqj0unakcp.jpeg
    0oqzy8pzntyn.jpeg
    240
  • What was old mate not happy with?
    '88 245
    '88 245 turbo
  • pineappleben (@pineapple) Northern beaches NSW
    What was old mate not happy with?

    Exhaust and wheels as expected
  • :'(
    Why? You styled the blue one kewly
  • I had a tidy white 144 with stock wheels and stock exhaust when on my Ps. I was completely invisible to the cops.
    pineapple
  • pineappleben (@pineapple) Northern beaches NSW
    :'(
    Why? You styled the blue one kewly

    Cool got me in trouble and it was too much hassle to turbo the kjet , so I swapped with a mate for a tidy ‘88 i can slap a snail onto
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