'Vivian' 1979 242GT

Paul_Roodenrys · 2018-11-15T11:07:33+00:00

Good luck with the build. I'm glad that you are going to use a Volvo motor in Vivian. While I can marvel at the abilities of people to put all sorts of m...

jared244

Paul_Roodenrys
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/185765#Comment_185765
Hello Rob, I'm hoping you can give me some information regarding installing the Yoshifab adapter and CAS sensor. Does it just slip in in place of the distributor, wire it up and the sensor does the rest or is there more to it?
I'm hoping to push the car back into the shed for the last time and then be able to drive it out. Any tips would be very much appreciated.

Paul the CAS adapter just drops in and bolts where the distributor was. and yes the CAS itself needs to be wired into your engine management system.

what happens next depends on what EMS you have. A simpler system might require you to lock the timing at idle and turn the distributor, or even lift the CAS adapter out and reengage the teeth in a different position to achieve timing of 10BTDC.

A more advanced EMS can do this in the software. Using a timing gun you can roughly see where it fires and enter degree offsets in the software to achieve 10BTDC.

once the static base timing timing is set, your off to the dyno for a tune. (Assuming the rest of your hardware is set up).

Paul_Roodenrys

Thanks Rob, the ecu is Haltech 550 and your information confirms the way I thought that it would be. I'm guessing that I can pretty much replace the dizzy with the CAS converter and sensor and wire it up using the 'trigger wires' that I used for the dizzy. It all seems pretty straight forward. I have learnt though that stuff that seems straight forward to me can sometimes be any thing but. Hopefully be able to post a clip of it running soon.

Anthony

Since you’re nearly finished wiring in a Haltech Elite 550 ecu, I thought Id mention I’ve recently finished an Elite 1500 ecu install on a B230FT / 242GT. So have knowledge on the incredible elite/nsp software etc

Paul_Roodenrys

Thank you Anthony, that is good to know. I believe that the the Elite 1500 is a really nice piece of gear.

Paul_Roodenrys

WIRING IN MY NEW CAS

Hello all, I'm in the process of wiring in the Cam/Crank Angle sensor that comes with the Yoshifab CAS Adaptor. This unit replaces the distributor and uses a Mitsubishi sensor from a 4g63 engine to provide the Haltech ECU with the information it needs. The problem I have is the same one I've had with the whole B230ft conversion: I really have no idea what I'm doing!

The sensor supplied from Yoshifab has 4 wires: Red, Black, Yellow and what looks like a pale pink or brown. The Haltech harness has two thick 4 core shielded cables: One is labeled Home (CAM input) it is grey with a black stripe with red/blue/yellow and green wires. The other is grey with black stripe and labeled 'Trigger' (Crank input) also with red/blue/yellow and green wires.

The ever patient Haltech tech advised that I use the grey 4 core (Crank input) :

Red is 12 volt + and would connect to the red power wire from the sensor.

Blue is the signal ground and would connect to the black wire from the sensor

Yellow is crank + trigger and would connect to either the yellow or pink/brown wire from sensor

Yellow from the Home 4 core is + Home trigger and would connect to the yellow or pink/brown wire.

Green wires are not used.

And that is where I am stuck which wire do I use? Yellow or Pink/Brown for home (cam) or trigger (crank).

Any help would be very welcome.

Paul_Roodenrys

Wires from CAS adapter sensor.

Red = power

Black = earth

Yellow to?

Brown/pink to?

Paul_Roodenrys

Haltech harness diagram.

Fitzy

I used the Yoshifab Coil Holder but mounted it to the firewall and angled the LS coils over slightly.

Am using MaxxEcu Pro. Very good system and has base maps for Volvos.

Works very well.

Cheers - Fitzy

Major Ledfoot

No colours, but you get the idea.

Paul_Roodenrys

G'Day Fitzy, That is an incredible engine bay and set up. It is a real credit to you.I hope that mine will look like that one day but at the moment it still looks very cluttered. There is a lot I've learned not to do this first time so I can see a time when I will redo it to get it the way I like. Thanks for sharing the picture.

Paul_Roodenrys

Thank you Ledfoot, my problem now is that I'm not sure which coloured wire from the Haltech loom goes to which trigger wire. Yellow trigger 1/brown trigger 2. Maybe it doesn't matter? I could always wire it up and, see if it works and if not swap the two wires over. What would be your best guess?

Major Ledfoot

^ There's some info on the Haltech support forum.

https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/4g63-engine

If the above isn't clear, you may have to ask Haltech support.

Paul_Roodenrys

Thank you Ledfoot, the Haltech reference you supplied had this. All I need to do is make sure I have the correct pins and I'm right. I feel a bit guilty that you thought to look where I didn't, so very much appreciated. All the best, Paul

Wiring

Function

Haltech Connection

2x Cam Signal

Home + (Yellow in Home 4-core)

4x Crank Signal

Trigger + (Yellow in Trigger 4-core)

Power

12V+ (Red in Trigger 4-core)

Signal Ground

Signal Ground (Blue in Trigger 4-core)

Paul_Roodenrys

Well the world's slowest b230ft swap continues in fits and starts.

I feel that a real milestone has been reached however, as I now have the CAS adapter and coil pack wired in and I am getting a nice bright spark to the plugs! Alas and alack though she still won't start as I have no fuel getting to the injectors or even out of the tank. The new high floe pump I installed won't even start. I removed it from the tank and it still works, so I contacted Mark at Haltech who has the patience of a saint. he gave me a series of tests to run to check all is good at the ecu and fuse box and to double check I had the right wires connected. All good. Following a process of chasing power with a multimetre and powerprobe it appears i have wired up the fuel pump wrong.

I think I should have soldered the red wire to the black wire with the blue rubber and the green wire, which I believe is the fuel gauge wire to the grey wire. If that is correct then what do I do with the black wire from the pump? The pump is a high flow pump from rocket Industries.

I would be very great-full for any advice or suggestions.

nugget_940

Paul_Roodenrys
Well the world's slowest b230ft swap continues in fits and starts.
I feel that a real milestone has been reached however, as I now have the CAS adapter and coil pack wired in and I am getting a nice bright spark to the plugs! Alas and alack though she still won't start as I have no fuel getting to the injectors or even out of the tank. The new high floe pump I installed won't even start. I removed it from the tank and it still works, so I contacted Mark at Haltech who has the patience of a saint. he gave me a series of tests to run to check all is good at the ecu and fuse box and to double check I had the right wires connected. All good. Following a process of chasing power with a multimetre and powerprobe it appears i have wired up the fuel pump wrong.
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/I1GCLHZOYSNG/img-7587-2-jpg.jpg
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/0LD7OTRMPIXB/img-7589-jpg.jpg
I think I should have soldered the red wire to the black wire with the blue rubber and the green wire, which I believe is the fuel gauge wire to the grey wire. If that is correct then what do I do with the black wire from the pump? The pump is a high flow pump from rocket Industries.
I would be very great-full for any advice or suggestions.

Black wire from the pump is earth mate!

Should be some wiring diagrams available somewhere for the stock setup? Just have to match the colours!

Keen to see this thing running!

Paul_Roodenrys

nugget_940
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/215133#Comment_215133
Black wire from the pump is earth mate!
Should be some wiring diagrams available somewhere for the stock setup? Just have to match the colours!
Keen to see this thing running!

Thanks Nugget, I'm pretty keen to see it run too! Turned into a very slow job.

VolvoHordz

On the intake pump bracket side, black is positive, brown is negative and grey is fuel level sender.

Connect your red wire from the pump to the black wire and put a ring terminal on the black and connect it to the pump hanger. Ignore the colours in the image below as it is confusing, but it shows where I mean you need to connect to.

Paul_Roodenrys

VolvoHordz
On the intake pump bracket side, black is positive, brown is negative and grey is fuel level sender.
Connect your red wire from the pump to the black wire and put a ring terminal on the black and connect it to the pump hanger. Ignore the colours in the image below as it is confusing, but it shows where I mean you need to connect to.
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/EOHD1ZKVLSVB/images-283-29.jpeg

Thanks Hordz, I'll give it a go and see what happens. ?

Paul_Roodenrys

Thanks to Hordz and Nugget I now have fuel. I had it wired up totally wrong. I also needed to 'enable' the injectors in the Haltec software. I still couldn't get it to run so I had a couple of remote sessions with the Haltec tech support. Those blokes are very patient. One problem was that the CAS Adaptor I bought from Yoshifab was fitted with a 'Hi-res disc with a 24-1 configuration. This means nothing to me but meant that the cam and crank angle setting was wrong. Solving that problem was easy with the tech simply selecting the appropriate set up from the software. Next the motors timing needed sorting, the sensible move was to use a timing light and follow the instructions given to me by the tech. I couldn't do this on my own (and I'm not very sensible, as evidenced by me wasting time and money on a 44 year old Volvo). I decided to do it the old fashioned way by adjusting the timing at the CAS adapter and changing the settings in the ignition section of the software until the motor either broke or started. It started! But only just. So, I remembered once before I had mixed up plugs leads so I swapped the leads on cylinders 2 and 3 and away she went.

I tried to load a short video but couldn't.

The motor is still running roughly, I need to sort out the vacuum hoses for a start and I have a problem with the throttle cable which comes of the throttle 'wheel' assembly . I also noticed that the turbo become very hot with just a couple of seconds of running so I think I must have an issue there. Maybe I'm not getting coolant or oil through?

Another problem is that I stripped the thread on spark plug two when testing for spark. By the time i realised the plug was too tight it was too late. I have another couple of heads but I think I should do it right and get one reconditioned professionally.

All in all, I'm very happy that the motor now runs.

nugget_940

Congrats on getting it going.

Would highly recommend it going to a tuner before running it anymore Paul.

By the sounds of it it has fuelling and timing issues if the turbo is glowing hot within seconds of it running (but as you said could be something simple like coolant or oil flow).

Running rough could be as you said vacuum or more likely the tune.

If you want to get it idling properly id recommend disabling the O2 control and playing with the fuel base map manually until it idles at a sensible AFR, also you could add some fuel to the cold start cranking and post start table which will help it fire up a bit easier.

Feel free to attach the Nexus map to me in a DM i'd love to take a look at it.

Also, not sure if I have missed it but is this car still utilising an idle control motor?

« Previous Page Next Page »