Greg's Gold 1991 240GLE wagon B230FT-to-be

I've experimented with different wheels along the way, but I think I like the Polaris (currently fitted) the best...

Over the years I've fitted a DVS strut brace, OE lower chassis braces, Kings lowering springs and Bilstein B6 shocks. Also took the snow guards off our 88 240GL before we sold it, and the cargo net/guard off our 93 240 wagon (the EV). Had the windows tinted and put clear indicators on. Blacked out the headlight inner surrounds too. Moved radio to lower cubby and fitted volt, vacuum and oil pressure gauges. Also fitted cruise control (using a 240 stalk and 740 bits and pieces). Car is currently auto but will be converted to M46 with P-type OD from the 740 HPT. Car has been on club plates for a couple years now.

Andy;c-148460 wroteHow about swap in a Gen4? :)

Ahh, if I had one sitting around... ;)

Ghettobird;c-148473 wroteYour stuff is too clean Greg
Ive never seen an M46 that wasnt black with oil and road grime!

I rekon it looks super minty with the Polaris <3

Main issues are:

Dizzy relocation - Does your auxilarry shaft have the gear on the front for a front mount dizzy?
Oil cooler - Will hit the engine mount
Oil feed/cooler - Stock oil feed line wont fit with the filter mounted in the stock 240 position (No cooler) and will need to be carefully bent, OR make up a new one (My vote)
Auxilaries - I swapped over everything from the 240 motor onto the 940T motor
Coolant sensor - Different from the 2 to the 7, these swap out easy
MAF relocation - I used 3m of 5 core insulated trailer wiring, only 5 of the 6 MAF pins are used anyway so this works out perfectly!

& the obvious LH2.2 - 2.4 flywheel issues, Youll need a drilled flywheel or a snazzy new one from TTV or Scandix (Approx the same price delivered ~$500)

Probably more I cant remember

Thanks Julian. Yeah, all that and the downpipe too! On my dad’s conversion he used the 740T remote oil filter setup but had flex hoses made up to go all the way from that to the filter housing to the oil cooler. I guess that fixes 2 things (no need to modify the return pipe?) I don’t plan to go any larger than stock on the downpipe so that should be easier to fit than what most folks have using 3-inch downpipes etc. Already have the LH2.4 flywheel and a B230F intermediate shaft from a 240, plus a distributor, so I think I’m there with most bits. Not sure about the rear trans mount...whether a bracket from a 240 will mount onto the P-type overdrive or not (haven’t had a close look yet). Yes, the trans was black. I spent a lot of time with degreaser when I pulled the engine/trans. One thing I just learned on here recently is the 740T fan shroud is misaligned with the mechanical fan on 240. No dramas as I have an 850 electric fan to fit but I always thought the 240 and 740 fan shrouds were same. Oh, will have to mod the upper radiator/intercooler brackets. And of course LH2.4T computers.

morgan;c-148474 wroteWhat happened to the 740 ? Looks super clean

It didn’t look too bad in pics but it was not great. Could. Have been fixed up I suppose. It had high KM on it but had recently had a factory reco new engine, which is why I bought it (plus manual). Just looking at my records and I paid $2900 for it back in 2004. Prob would have been better to put the money in the bank LOL! Back then I pulled everything out except minimum needed to drive it and I took it to one of the Winton fun days to test out the engine and trans. Ran great so I’m happy with the donor engine and trans. Of course it’s been sitting in a shed since 2004...

One more thing I forgot Julian on the swap is the driveshaft. The OD has a 3-prong output flange for the rubber coupling. I’m assuming I can swap that for a solid flange and use a standard 240 M46 front driveshaft to avoid having to shorten the 740 front shaft, but may be worth doing that so I could use the 740-style centre bearing/mount.

morgan;c-148474 wroteWhat happened to the 740 ? Looks super clean

OH, I did sell a number of bits off the 740 to recoup some of the cost, including the wheels, front snow guard, boot spoiler, radio/amp, etc. Wish I had kept the wheels but they’re in good hands now with the Nowatzky clan.

Finally getting around to the long-overdue coolant flush and was going to change out the ECU coolant temp sensor. I had bought a new one ages ago...do you think I can find it? Not in the plastic tub where it should be, or any of the other tubs of new parts. Bugger! FCP order on the way. Ordered 3 to have a couple spares as they are only $9 each LOL!

I’ve been chasing a problem of running rich on cold start-up and even though the resistance of the sensor measures OK back at the ECU (at least it did a couple years ago when I tried to diagnose this issue) I figure it’s worth trying a new one. Also, I started the car up for the first time in a couple months today. Somebody mentioned start it up then turn it off and pull plugs to see if any look funny. Well I started it and it didn’t run too bad...let it idle for about 30 secs then shut off. Pulled plugs and they were all wet with petrol...would that be normal? Swapped in some new NGK Iridium plugs (very cheap from RockAuto if anyone needs some!!) I noticed the ipd spark plug boots (metal ones that have the little internal spring clip that pushes onto the threaded stud on the ends of the plugs) seem to fit very loose on the new plugs...hmmm. Also noticed that the plugs seemed very oily around the base of the plug and the threads, but no oil visible on side of the head (indicating cam cover leak) so not sure what gives there, unless I previously wiped the oil off the side of the head?? The plugs were some Bosch platinum 4-prong ones that I must have installed ages ago??

My OCD had been going nuts as the lower radiator hose had one of those stainless steel cheese-grater clamps on it at the radiator end, while all the other hose clamps are genuine Volvo ones. That will be fixed now! Was looking for my bottle brush thing to scrub out the radiator surge tank but nowhere to be found. There must be a black hole in the shed somewhere hiding all this stuff that goes missing!

ramrod;c-162109 wroteI've heard iridium plugs to cause problems. I use bosch WR7DC factory fitment

timbo;c-162111 wroteI agree with ramrod iridium plugs are great for late model cars but they prefer a lean burn operating environment that 1980s fuel injection systems cannot offer with narrowband 02 sensors.

They were cheap and a few people on Turbobricks, Brickboard or Facebook or somewhere (LOL) mentioned they were good, so I'll see how it runs once I get the coolant sensor swapped out.

Shame on me - I see that I bought the car in 2010 and have never changed the coolant! Fortunately it didn't look bad and no corrosion on the thermostat housing or head, so WHEW!

Found the elusive temp sensor in one of the storage tubs (aka black hole). Took a bit of effort to get at it. Used two long screwdrivers to get the connector off, and had to undo a clamp for the main engine wire harness to move it out of the way. Then used a 19 mm deep socket with 3/8 drive extensions with a U-joint in the middle. Got the new sensor in and tightened but don’t have the connector on yet. Of course the rotational angle of the sensor is slightly different so the connector needs to be twisted about 30 degrees to reinstall, and no hand clearance, so that will be a challenge!