Vee_Que
Getting another good motor isn't exactly a <$200 proposition unless you work for a Volvo workshop, so the argument used by Julian is not really world when you don't have access to a hoist.
It's simple to convert a non lh2.4 motor to lh2.4 if you have the sensor and bracket. Either way the auxiliary shaft from the 240 motor gets swapped onto the other motor if you went that way.
Plenty of people have run +T for longer than two months with bigger turbos then the 12b, they don't go on here or Facebook.
Both motors realistically are less desirable than a later motor, but you could always swap to 13mm rods in your 240 block and even a 531 head assuming the bores are good. Or just get a 93 on 940 motor instead to reseal more cost, but lower compression and less chance of wear.
ramrod
Check if your rods are 13mm thick first.
But by the sounds of it he doesn't want to set the world on fire so if 9mm no biggy
timbo
ramrod;c-144611 wroteCheck if your rods are 13mm thick first.
But by the sounds of it he doesn't want to set the world on fire so if 9mm no biggy
19t would destroy 9mm rods pretty easily
tony93
Yes they will be 9mm rods
The whole point in the 18-19t is that eventually I’m going to want more power and the down piple flange will be different so instead of getting one made for the smaller turbo and then modify it or I can just get it ready now and save some time and $$
But that also being said I can run it at a lower boost and get the same if not more power then the smaller turbo at higher boost levels, which theoretically should be safer for an na motor
I’m only after low to mid range power anyway
If and when I do blow a rod or piston then 13mm will be going in during the rebuild and I then will go down the 16v conversion route
timbo
Forged rods are $330 delivered though and you won't have to get a new block when it spits a rod out
ramrod
You better check you don't already have a K block with 13mm rods, unless you know for a fact you have 9mm ones, don't guess
tony93
9mm I’m pretty sure
ramrod
Is that a K I see?
What makes you "pretty sure" your rods are the 9mm type?
tony93
To be fair I did notice that after I posted that
And I thought it would have been after the F
Cause They did make a b230fk which when you said I model made me think it was that
Ghettobird
I never said anything about using a hoist Alex,
Swapping an engine out is VERY possible in a day - on the street - in dirt - when its raining.
I quote basic seals like cam cover, rms front main, intermediate seals & pan.
Also never referred to my own motors longevity either as that was murdered VERY quickly in its new home, WITH a 12b & the thicker 13mm rods.
Tony has expressed his plans to use an 18t or bigger, he has also discussed bigger valves, cams & other exhaust work where I personally believe a better starting point will result in a more reliable package.
Put a dollar value on your time, and slap the cost of wasted seals on top.
Consider the wasted time on pulling a blown engine, cleaning up another one, sealing it up & reinstalling that one too.
Tell you what @tony93, I have a 165km 95 Turbo motor that will need rings & a hone (water damage) that you can have for a slab. It should have the better rods in it (Id still chuck some chinese forgies in there), & you can slap on a head of your choice.
Hows that for an awesome starting point?
Id argue that its low to midrange torque that kills boxes, at lower rpm the effective work on the gearset is at a mechanical disadvantage, so having a higher up power curve could help your M47 live a bit longer.
tony93
Not bad not bad at all
The honing is a bit of work and if I go down that route I will want to go 16v
I’ll swing by early next week and discuss in person about that and your ECUs etc
Ex850R
Low down torque, which you are wanting, is what bends conrods.
ramrod
tony93;c-144665 wroteNot bad not bad at all
The honing is a bit of work and if I go down that route I will want to go 16v
I’ll swing by early next week and discuss in person about that and your ECUs etc
You don't need 16V.
It does nothing except add complication and higher risk and more moving parts and more $
Ex850R
ramrod;c-144695 wrotetony93;c-144665 wroteNot bad not bad at all
The honing is a bit of work and if I go down that route I will want to go 16v
I’ll swing by early next week and discuss in person about that and your ECUs etc
You don't need 16V.
It does nothing except add complication and higher risk and more moving parts and more $
But kool!
ramrod
It's lame.
ljk346
Excerpt from Yoshifab 16v guide:
Why do it? Greater power potential.
People will argue that an 8v can do everything a 16v head can. Sure it can get close but it's not going to be cheap or easy. You will be running an aggressive cam, larger valves, and good port work. The 16v head flows what a heavily worked 8v does and still has a ton of headroom if you want to take it even further.
heavy_dd
Surely run into clearance issues with 16v
Klaptrap24
You will need to relocate clutch master cylinder with 16v on top of a bunch of other things to make the head work, but definitely a lot more power potential
ramrod
The engine in the above car has 8 valves.
Do you make or will you make as much or close to the power that the above car makes? No? Then you don't need 16 valves.
Unless it's a pissing contest, which if it is then by all means convert.
egads (she/her)
Price of 16v head vs price of heavily working an 8v surely changes what you would do based on cash
