ramrod
Is that a K I see?
What makes you "pretty sure" your rods are the 9mm type?
tony93
To be fair I did notice that after I posted that
And I thought it would have been after the F
Cause They did make a b230fk which when you said I model made me think it was that
Ghettobird
I never said anything about using a hoist Alex,
Swapping an engine out is VERY possible in a day - on the street - in dirt - when its raining.
I quote basic seals like cam cover, rms front main, intermediate seals & pan.
Also never referred to my own motors longevity either as that was murdered VERY quickly in its new home, WITH a 12b & the thicker 13mm rods.
Tony has expressed his plans to use an 18t or bigger, he has also discussed bigger valves, cams & other exhaust work where I personally believe a better starting point will result in a more reliable package.
Put a dollar value on your time, and slap the cost of wasted seals on top.
Consider the wasted time on pulling a blown engine, cleaning up another one, sealing it up & reinstalling that one too.
Tell you what @tony93, I have a 165km 95 Turbo motor that will need rings & a hone (water damage) that you can have for a slab. It should have the better rods in it (Id still chuck some chinese forgies in there), & you can slap on a head of your choice.
Hows that for an awesome starting point?
Id argue that its low to midrange torque that kills boxes, at lower rpm the effective work on the gearset is at a mechanical disadvantage, so having a higher up power curve could help your M47 live a bit longer.
tony93
Not bad not bad at all
The honing is a bit of work and if I go down that route I will want to go 16v
I’ll swing by early next week and discuss in person about that and your ECUs etc
Ex850R
Low down torque, which you are wanting, is what bends conrods.
ramrod
tony93;c-144665 wroteNot bad not bad at all
The honing is a bit of work and if I go down that route I will want to go 16v
I’ll swing by early next week and discuss in person about that and your ECUs etc
You don't need 16V.
It does nothing except add complication and higher risk and more moving parts and more $
Ex850R
ramrod;c-144695 wrotetony93;c-144665 wroteNot bad not bad at all
The honing is a bit of work and if I go down that route I will want to go 16v
I’ll swing by early next week and discuss in person about that and your ECUs etc
You don't need 16V.
It does nothing except add complication and higher risk and more moving parts and more $
But kool!
ramrod
It's lame.
ljk346
Excerpt from Yoshifab 16v guide:
Why do it? Greater power potential.
People will argue that an 8v can do everything a 16v head can. Sure it can get close but it's not going to be cheap or easy. You will be running an aggressive cam, larger valves, and good port work. The 16v head flows what a heavily worked 8v does and still has a ton of headroom if you want to take it even further.
heavy_dd
Surely run into clearance issues with 16v
Klaptrap24
You will need to relocate clutch master cylinder with 16v on top of a bunch of other things to make the head work, but definitely a lot more power potential
ramrod
The engine in the above car has 8 valves.
Do you make or will you make as much or close to the power that the above car makes? No? Then you don't need 16 valves.
Unless it's a pissing contest, which if it is then by all means convert.
egads
Price of 16v head vs price of heavily working an 8v surely changes what you would do based on cash
Ex850R
ramrod;c-144697 wroteIt's lame.
It's kool.
ramrod
egads;c-144710 wrotePrice of 16v head vs price of heavily working an 8v surely changes what you would do based on cash
I wouldn't, but others would, good for them.
Vee_Que
You can have a street car with 400hp and a 16v, with better manner and room to go more.
Or a huge turbo. On a custom manifold, with custom intake and controllable ecu on an 8v head, and make similar power up top but nothing under peak.
Personally, within a budget to not spend more than needed , I'd prefer a stock 16v head with even stock cams making 350hp with the same turbo that makes 300hp with an 8v head that I would need to spend lots on to get the same flow as a 16v.
To show one drag car. Or Swedish dyno Queens that are not driven often, against the real work realities of how to get there, it's silly.
Linuxman runs 9s on a 16v 2.5 Street car now, his head is pretty Much untouched iirc, to get the same on an 8v, heaps more money in valves and flow upgrades are needed, and even then, a bigger turbo would probably be needed to force more air flow to compensate for the engines lack of flow.