I picked this up after a year of back and forth with a very attached seller. And rightfully so, he has owned, built and raced this car for the past 20 years, all the while his wife was using it to get around town.
I will be using the car to get into amateur events up and down the east coast, hill climbs and rallies. I just registered it on full rego and now my only plans are to maintain it while tidying up the body and doing some rust prevention. I'd like to fit a full roll cage as well, whether I retain the rear seats is undecided at this stage. I'm still learning about the car and getting my head around the engines internal mods, it's a lot of car for me and I'm rather excited

Fitted with:

Fully worked 4.4Litre p76 engine

Rochester 4barrel carby

Electronic distributor

Heads big ported & milled/machined modified & roller rockers fitted

Genuine rover H.C. performance pistons

Rover cast rocker covers fitted

Heatseeker USA stage 4 camshaft

Solid valve lifters

Crane pushrods

Dynagear timing setup

Fully balanced engine

Modified lightened flywheel

H.D Toyota clutch

Exhaust headers with twin system & 2 1/2 “rear mufflers

Twin fuel pump set up

Big H.D. Radiator with twin fans

Triumph stag brakes

Toyota cast iron case 5 speed gearbox

Chrysler charger driveshaft

Limited slip diff-Independent rear end Borg warner modified with custom adaptor,cradle,side plates,V8 custom axles & modified crossmember.(1 pair of spare axles are included).

V8 stag tacoh in s dash

Saas racing seat with saas harness(Normal seat belts are fitted as well for road)

Dual batteries

Custom front sway bar set up

King springs with big shocks-Very stiff

Genuine hella spotlights with 130w aircraft light inserts

High beam fitted with same as well

Power steering High ratio


Some pics below and a link to a clip of me bringing it home.








Fantastically weird. Two thumbs up.
egads;c-139799 wroteAny idea on what the brakes are?
I believe Stag on all four corners. They feel really nice. I have a feeling the break booster is upgraded also
Very nice. I do like the p76 v8 in good condition as well as the 2000/2500 triumph!
Not a big fan of triumph styling of that era, looks alot of fun though, bet off luck with it
Fantastic!
The sounds it makes are epic too, I'd never tire of that noise/s!
You fit the bill too, looking very 70s man.
I reckon in an estate car version it would be cool as well.

That era of Triumph has an elegance about them, in the same way that a Peugeot 504 does.
Drove the Old Pacific Hwy, Sydney to the Central Coast over the weekend.
It exceeded every expectation, such a treat to drive, the previous owner did a very good job on the mechanicals, the handling is light and easy at all speeds.
PaddlerEd;c-140185 wroteI reckon in an estate car version it would be cool as well.

That era of Triumph has an elegance about them, in the same way that a Peugeot 504 does.
Yeah I would an estate one day, I think i've only ever seen 1 or 2 pop up for sale though. And funny you say that about the 504, I very nearly picked one up when I had given up hope on the seller of this Triumph.
Get a 504 next. I had one, sad I sold it. Rust ate a way at the left hand chassis rail and I was scared so I moved it on.

RIP 504...

But back to your Triumph of awesomeness
6 days later
I was offered one of these a couple of months ago , totally standard and in yellow , kinda kicking myself now :o
7 months later
Does anybody know anything about a system that cuts power whilst overcranking in order to save the starter motor?
This car has something like that, i imagine it is maybe a temp sensor, not a timer..
Anyway the few times i cranked it long enough to do this it worked flawlessly, would cut in somewhere between 5-10 seconds, one of the batteries would switch off. I'd get out and switch it back on and try again.
Problem is, all of a sudden it's kicking in after about 1 second, which isn't long enough to fire it up.
I've been chasing the wiring and can't find any issues. Ideally, i would like to remove the system completely and rely on my senses as to when to terminate ignition, but i can't bloody find it.

Ignition wire = white/red


what the shits going on here


Solanoid


Does anybody know what's in the top right corner of the engine bay under the fuses?
I think the switch in the bottom right next to the ignition coil is the fuel pump.


Batteries in boot and the switches i speak of. One of these is whats switching off during ignition..


Any ideas on how to get it going again would be fantastic as i dearly miss driving her :s
Is there anything attached to the starter, like a thermal cut out, or possably a CT coil going around the starter cable, which monitors the load while cranking
I know triumph wiring very well and there is no cutout like you describe standard. The brown wires are battery positive feed. Joined in that junction block in your hand. Will have power wire from alternator going to it.
Your problem is probably those chinese electronic circuit breakers. None of them ever trip at the right current and they get worse as they heat up from current flow.
I have seen 250A rated ones trip at 140 amps.
If you really want to protect the wiring from the boot to the front use a good quality ANL fuse holder and 200+ amp ANL fuse.
Top right hand corner.
Fuses are not standard so not sure.
Do you mean the wiper motor?
racer1234;153144 wroteNone of them ever trip at the right current and they get worse as they heat up from current flow.
Good call, this does occur, like if i attempt to turn it over a second time it cuts instantly, as you pointed out could be from the residual heat.
Is the ANL Fuse to replace the circuit breakers?


gavinh;c-153140 wroteIs there anything attached to the starter, like a thermal cut out, or possably a CT coil going around the starter cable, which monitors the load while cranking
Mmm that would make sense but i've examined the length of the starter cable and there's nothing out of the ordinary. As with the starter motor, although its inanely inaccessible I can't spot anything unfamiliar
The ANL fuse would replace the circuit breakers.
If you are not sure how to do this I do recommend either a lot more research or take it to an autoelec. Maybe google something like "how to mount a battery in the boot anl fuse"
The effects of the current involved can be quite spectacular if you get it wrong. Think arc welding.
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