joejoedragon's 240.

joejoedragon

Hey guys,
New to the forum. Here is my Volvo 240 sedan from South Australia.

Check out my Instagram: @joejoedragon or if you're into imports @dailyimportstreetfinds

This bad girl's packing a non turbo B23E.. injected dorps for days.
It's manual, on dual fuel and is a lot of fun through the hills where i live.
It has had a few mods
Stiffer springs
Bigger sway bars
Has been upgraded to 4 pot font brakes 2 pot rears, soon getting EBC yellow stuff pads, going to be stupid good
Momo
'performance' (SA designed and made) wheels
Omex Clubman adjustable rev limiter with launch control, sounds ridiculously cool haha
leather seats swapped in from a different moose
black dash swapped in from another 240
rusted fuel cap (has been ages and barely rusted lol)
Was running no rear muffler until i got defected, sounded immense when running it on gas, popped flames with the limiter and gurgled whenever i took my foot off the accelerator above 2,000 rpm. Was a lot of fun.

My plans for it are to swap out the wheels it has now for phatt black steelies, somehow find coilovers, dump it with a bit of function as I am a hoon in my Volvo, and destroy dirty nissans and other filthy imports on my local mountain.

What are some good base mods for ye olde 240? want to start modifying it more but dont know where to start.

240Joe

It's great to see that you made it over here!

I love what you've done with your car & it's great to see more people having fun with 240s. It sounds great in the clips I've seen too :)

There are quite a few 240s owned here but not too many put up. I plan on putting mine up over the next 2 weeks because it's been way too long. If you have questions, need parts, etc. just post it up and most likely you will find what you're after.

If keeping it N/A these are some mods others here have suggested in the past (in order of effect):
1. Make sure all filters, spark plugs etc. are new, make sure timing is set correctly, make sure there are no vac leaks etc. etc.
2. Change to manual, if it's an auto.
3. Change to a K or H cam (if not already in the car)
4. Change the diff to one with a low ratio, eg: 4.10 or 3.91.
5. Fit a better flowing exhaust, possibly with extractors.
6. Advance the cam timing a few degrees.
7. Modify the air intake/airbox.
8. Fit an electric fan.

If you want a lot more power you would be better turboing it and there are a lot of others here that could give advce on that.

@AshDVS supplies 240 coilovers and a whole lot of other handling improvement goodies. Well worth a look if you haven't already.

egads (she/her)

Welcome, looks good!

joejoedragon

@240joe cheers man. It's already manual with advanced timing, currently getting tuned ATM. Tempted to get it set up for straight gas for performance reasons. I have been looking at the threads about cams, how do I go about getting this K cam people speak of? I can't swap out to a pod filter as this year 240 has no air flow meter and doesn't run on gas with one, I just want the sound haha! Swapping out rear muffler for a hot dog soon, I can't find any performance parts for 240's here aha. Thanks
@egads thanks man

Vee_Que

Welcome! To put out short. There isn't much option for engine performance parts. There is performance parts for suspension from dvs.com.au or vptuning in Australia. 740/940 cars have the same redblock but came standard turbo on some models which is the common power upgrade. Not too hard to do and a few people who don't post that often have turbod 240s.

A k cam would come up in the for sale or post a wanted ad and someone will be able to sell you one. But you'll gain a max of 15kw with cam if you had a efi cam in there for some reason and extractors as well. You can gain lots of power na if you spend a lot of money but turboing or installing a turbo motor is cheaper and better value for money.

Is that wing a genuine volvo one? If it is it should be mounted just above the badges not on the top of the boot loud like that. Looks interesting!

joejoedragon

Nah it's off a mazda 626. Dude before me put it on and it doesn't look horrible, they didn't respray underneath the spoiler so I kinda have to keep it lol. Ill end up turbo'ing it later on, for now all ill be doing is k cam and few more suspension upgrades @vee_que thanks man

A_Volvo_Driver

My car is the same horrible green LOL - search for 'Moose' if you want to read up on my car.

Different coloured fuel door? Is that to make it look like a Commodore? :)

Tell us about your Bimmer too please.

joejoedragon

@scott @a_volvo_driver I took the paint off to make it rust. Hasn't had much progress, gunna try salting it haha. Baby vomit green mate. Haha the 2002 is my brothers old car. Went so well on 7" wide enkeis with semi slicks

egads (she/her)

Masons sticker, nice :-D

joejoedragon

Yeah still haven't gotten around to taking it off haha @egads

egads (she/her)

Adds some class :-P

joejoedragon

Holds it to the ground like its on rails >200 kph

AshDVS

Regarding EBC Yellowstuff -
While EBCs application documentation/chart says they're effective from 100 deg C, they're probably not ideal for a 240.
If in good order, 240 brakes are quite good and the vehicle isnt particularly heavy (by todays standards).

From experience with a lot of EBC pads (we sell them), amongst others, in Volvo applications, Yellowstuff arent the best choice.

While the Green and Redstuff pads are supposed to be effective from 0 deg C, their initial bite from cold isnt fantastic.

With our 240 track car, although only 1090kg, Greenstuff were the most suitable EBC pad and survived Supersprint type of work quite well.

In your position, for a road car - even one driven in a very 'spirited' fashion - I'd say that Yellows aren't the ideal choice.

joejoedragon

@ashDVS thanks, I've had a look at all your 240 products, cool to know these items are around. So you suggest green for the 240, thanks for the advice mate. How long do these last for spirited daily driving?

AshDVS

Theres certainly alternatives to EBC pads, but Greens are quite good on a 240.
How long they'll last is a pretty open ended question, they'll happily deal with a fair bit of repeated abuse though.

Even when I was doing a LOT of track work, I was pretty kind on brakes, so obviously it'll be variable according to the driver etc.

Happy to field questions though if you want to drop us an email.

Ben

I'm digging that wing, it has that great "fuck you, I'm a wing and proud of it" feeling.

joejoedragon

@ashDVS yeah, I like to be fair kind on them. Cheers for your tips! @ben exactly. It's not re sprayed under it so I have to keep it

Slowbrick

Dat wing!

AshDVS

joejoedragon;16542 wrote@ashDVS yeah, I like to be fair kind on them. Cheers for your tips! @Ben exactly. It's not re sprayed under it so I have to keep it

Kool.
Even Greens are ordinary from stone cold.
I DDed my track car for a few of weeks a couple of years back (hilarious in itself, with plastic windows and uber-grumpy engine note), Essentially I'd simply drive to the end of my street with my left foot on the brake - this would generate enough pad temp to actually get it to stop well enough for the rest of my commute.

I've had Greens at the other end of the scale too before we started running brake ducts (Prior to the move to the Mazda RX7 calipers), and actually had a pad fire - that was a one-off situation though on a track day with LONG runs and very high ambient temperature.

joejoedragon

Yeah my brother had them in his skyline, they were excellent. I'm able to deal with all that, they sound like the way to go haha, would never be used for anything that would cause a fire hahaa