(wtb) Volvo 240 turbo swap parts

cacdaddy, don't get too excited too quickly. Step by step. Start with the basics. get the car, get the engine running sweet, turbo it, learn about it. Then mod it. And have fun

Dont waste your time with crappy old 740 T green injectors, if your going with a Haltech or other EMS - You may as well get some 850/x70 white injectors (350cc) or bigger and adjust for it in the ECU.
I can help with injectors, rail, intake & manifold shipped up if you are struggling to find bits up north

Tiga;137738 wroteBwahhh, thanks everyone for the advice!!
I guess I'll start looking for a 93+ b230f engine to swap!!

Is swapping the crank and rods from a penta motor out of the question? Does the 86mm crank only fit later b230 engines?

For ignition Im looking at ls1 coil packs, and hall effect cas and cps

You can run a 2.5 crank yes, but not a huge gain either.

As a first step it might be worthwhile getting your Haltech installed as you will need that regardless and your swap will depend on it. You can then become familiar with how it works and how to tune it.

When I did my first +T I installed the EZK to the car and ran it for about 3 weeks to make sure it worked. EZK is no where as complicated as Haltech though. Going from Kjet to EFI is nothing to sneeze at and will take up a lot of your time and will make or break your swap.

Get your current motor running sweet on it then go go go.

Yes. And a cas sensor from yoshifab.com and other bits to match. What version haltech are you going with? I've spoken with haltech and they recommend the 1000 because you can map boost.

The white 240 turbo is mine and it is actually in Coffs Harbour, I really didn't want to part it but since no offers have been made, it's looking like I'll part it. pm me if interested.

The entry level works fine for an na setup from what haltech have told me, boost control mapping is a handy feature on a street car and a few other input/output help the ecu do a better job to run it, like the idle air motor that a base unit will probably not control.

I had a read on the Elite 550 and it sounds like it would be perfect for running a turbo B230 with no frills, provided you didn't have a veiw to run an engine with more cylinders in future. You'd run a coil near plug set up, with a coil per cylinder and sequential ignition and injection, utilising all 8 of their ign and inj outputs. On board map sensor is nice. You could run all your factory sensors with it, plus a new variable throttle position sensor and open element intake temp sensor from the wreckers.

The only thing I would caution you on is the hidden costs of doing this. An $1100 ecu sounds like great bang for buck but you will need to spend more:
$1100 Haltech Elite 550
$500 Haltech Wiring loom to suit
$600 Haltech CAN wideband kit with guage
~$500 Yoshifab CAS and adapter or some other way of triggering.
~$1000 tuning, unless you want to diy.

Before you know it you're at $3700 and unless you upgrade other things, not really making any more power than you would on a factory LH2.4 computer. Don't get me wrong, it would be a sweet tunable set up that would support heaps of power, but if you're on any kind of budget it might be worth looking at other ecus that are out there that offer identical feature sets but aren't MCM endorsed...

If you went microtec. Make sure you choose the optical sensor as it's burnt into the eprom and locked by them, the cost of getting the sensor changed over is $400 plus loom changes.

I would not wish microtech on my worst enemy. Unless they had a rotary. I mean if you need some of the cool features like... shake the box abit for a factory reset, pay to unlock standard features of the ecu, worst customer support of all time, ground off component info on the board, then go for it.

But honestly, for the best budget ecu that will do everything that you would want on a B230 look no further than an EMU Classic.
If you are on a tight budget, Microsquirt with a 14point7 wideband controller will run it well at a basic level also.

Or LH2.4 ;)

Exactly, I mean people seem to be making reliable power on LH2.4 up to a point, for the money it makes good sense

Well it works for me and seems fine.

You would be suprised to know the levels of horsepower people are reaching in Europe and America using LH 2.4 chipped of course