Toms 2zzge 74' 142

Trex · 2018-05-12T22:59:17+00:00

Looks like it will be a great project! Interested to see how you go with the 240 front brake conversion. Another guy in our club has been working on that as...

timbo

It still has to pass a roadworthy too so can't go stripping it yet. It's literally got some cheap seat covers on it and that's all.
The stock 120/140 stub axles are piss weak and will flex once you have some decent wide wheels and sticky tyres on them so it's not much worse with the flipped kugas than some more sensible old man wheels.
We crack test stub axles here for some of the local British car club guys and it's not unusual at all to see cracks forming on the underside of the stub axle on relatively stock cars that don't see the track. We are under no illusions as to the extra stress being placed on them

Wheel bearings will be checked periodically and have spare stub axles as a contingency.
Have a spare b20b and 4 spd aswell
Main idea is to do this on the cheap and not take shit too seriously.

Trex

Would be fun to see what time it could do though haha

And as tim said, make no assumptions. This isn’t an all out build or a race car or anything in particular. This car is us having fun

Ex850R

Trex;c-138991 wrote
Vee_Que;c-138990 wroteHow are you planning to fit 240 Calipers? To my understanding with a mates 142, they don't fit very well.

Not my style, internet points don't do it for me, actually driving does, but cool.
They didn't fit very well at the start, but a few internet points later they bolted right up.

Who hands out these points?
Where do I cash them in?
Can I trade Biggus Dickus points for them?
Who even mentioned points....
Why?

Trex

As usual I’ve been lazy and waiting for a day it’s not freezing cold and wet outside to get stuff done.
240 vented front done. Rear 850 done. Still waiting for my order from cvi for new lines and bmc rebuild kit.
Changed the ign barrel and all locks on the car and set the door gaps.

Stripped the rest of the 144, got the whole front crossmember and associated parts. Will modify the diff centre and have spare axles and Paul grabbed some stuff which is good to see :)

Struggled a bit with the dash in this low light, can’t find some screws to remove the dash?
I decided im going to remove the whole heater box jungle as nothing works and put in another kit to just demist.

We’ve done heaps of random stuff as you’d probably expect from the state of the base.

Trex

I decided against the flares after I posted the other photo. But then off a whim I fitted them again, and I love it.

Started fixing the dash. Filled the large gaps with expanding foam and put pc clear epoxy over the top, pc clear is a shatter proof and moveable epoxy. Have some nylon flock on it’s way from the US. Couldn’t find nylon flock anywhere in aus.

Trex

@Vee_Que I’ve been doing stupid amounts of research on the b20’s head design and get differeing information and power outputs as I’m sure you’re aware. Americans are great at claiming stupid power.
The std head design ports and bowl all seem great to me, I can’t see a way to improve them without sacrificing a complete burn in the middle of the piston or losing low to mid range. What did you find when doing all yours?

Is the std compression 10:1? I was thinking of decking much higher and using 98 and sending it.

carnut222

I like the flares! Wow, that dash pad was toast! You couldn’t find another one that was decent for cheap I guess? I think the early 240 ones might fit but not sure? Going to be good to see this car in person one day!

Trex

carnut222;c-141044 wroteI like the flares! Wow, that dash pad was toast! You couldn’t find another one that was decent for cheap I guess? I think the early 240 ones might fit but not sure? Going to be good to see this car in person one day!

Haha the dash is horrible, it was barely hanging on. The original idea was to put a dash mat over it, but they’re impossible to find. I didn’t want to send this one away or get a replacement so fixing and flocking was the next best thing. Should turn out alright fingers crossed

Roinik

Since you'll have the 8 bolt crank, any thought about B21 pistons and an extra core on the radiator? You can then port the head a bit more for a bit extra. I ran that setup in a 122 with a K cam for a bit. The extra torque is useful, not so good for 122 traction in the wet.

Trex

Roinik;c-141049 wroteSince you'll have the 8 bolt crank, any thought about B21 pistons and an extra core on the radiator? You can then port the head a bit more for a bit extra. I ran that setup in a 122 with a K cam for a bit. The extra torque is useful, not so good for 122 traction in the wet.

Sort of. No offense but I see the b20 as a waste of money and I don’t have any emotional tie to the engine. What ever can be done for free or cheap to gain a little power without sacrificing low end I am happy to do. Pistons overbore etc isn’t worth it to me.

With the b21 pistons, what’s the difference between them and the 20? I couldn’t find any info on google

Vee_Que

I will post more later, but the cost to bore the motor to 92mm from 89.5mm stock is hundreds and you can lose a block in the quest to get there, not worth the risk Imo. My block walls would have measured at 1.5-2mm after boring and I decided against that because I didn't like the risk.

For the head. The intake is actually pretty good overall, the exhaust needs help. A b20e (efi motor) is meant to be 10.5:1 stock, a b20b is just under 10:1, I have my 122 at 10.8:1 iirc with the twin 45 webers with no pinging because I've also decked the block and have under 0.040' squish. It does make a difference.

guru

The exhaust ports need to be braised up near the valves to flow better. The Injected head is the one to use

Vee_Que

http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186129

Is the basic reference for b20 head porting, guru is correct, raising the exhaust port is best, including raising the floor to allow a better angle. But that is a lot more work.

Clive cams will do a hot cam to suit your needs also. I am pretty sure I posted a cam chart he offers in my cars thread, but the cam lobes are chev v8 anyway.

Trex

Thanks for all the help guys :)

Dash is coming along well. Better than expected. Few more days work and it will be finished. I’ll post pics maybe tonight or tomorrow

bowie

Tell me about those flares. They just cheap plastic that your rolled and cut to length?

Trex

bowie;c-141207 wroteTell me about those flares. They just cheap plastic that your rolled and cut to length?

Full set of 240z flares. No cutting. They’re just held on with tape atm

Trex

Vee_Que

Lots of work for that power level.

quote="bgpzfm142;c-131962"]If you look at the mods which Sweden's Lindquist Racing and Erland Cox, a guru with Volvo heads, have done with their B20 heads, the Repco port design makes sense.

Lindquist's dyno figures are very impressive, however the engine doesn't get to peak torque until 5750 RPM.

[/quote]

Lots of work to gain a bit more then that too. A b230+16v swap is cheaper of course.

Trex

Massey165

Hi Tom, Are you located in Canberra, Who modified the wheels.

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