Hey guys.. where is some threats on this that are completed!? There is no one I can find that have actually finished it!? Let me know thanks :)
142 Engine Swap
What are you thinking of?
I’m looking for ideas from what I have read the 230 is a good swap.
But I like the sound of a 1jz or ls1. It would be nice to see if someone has completed any swap with a bit of a guide to see the issues snags that they ran into. A lot of the stuff I can do myself it will just be the swap it’s self. So I’ll be buying defective motor and rebuild myself. Should cut down price. Go from there but if someone has done a swap with a guilds would be amazing :)
But I like the sound of a 1jz or ls1. It would be nice to see if someone has completed any swap with a bit of a guide to see the issues snags that they ran into. A lot of the stuff I can do myself it will just be the swap it’s self. So I’ll be buying defective motor and rebuild myself. Should cut down price. Go from there but if someone has done a swap with a guilds would be amazing :)
Not yet finished but can make a 1J fit. By make I mean there 1 cylinder back into the firewall and tunnel has to be completely fabbed.
Ouch sounds costly! Haha looks great but! Wow!
Your existing 142 engine is probably producing 60-70% of it's original power, with a rebuilt std engine the performance would be OK. Build a 2127cc using 244 pistons, modified head, performance cam and twin Webers/Dellortos and you would have a fast fun car that has more than retained its value. Fit a Toyota/Nissan engine and you have a just another hot rod.
I see where your going there. :)
@Toad240 How are you getting around the steering box and brake booster?
@skeeny it vastly depends on what your goals are. one option can suit person x but not y
I have decided with speaking with a couple of people within Oz Volvo i will be heading down the path of rebuilding the B20 with and attempting to keep original as possible. Will keep updates along the way! Any recommendations within the sydney area of parts, someone that has rebuild would be helpful!
Thanks :)
Thanks :)
@ab1 Had to go custom highmount to just clear the steering column and box. Was going to go remote boosted but decided on a Tilton pedal hanger instead.
Wow. I would just buy a good 1j instead of rebuilding as they are stout. But to cut the firewall makes it near impossible for engineering in Victoria to my understanding and removes the factory heater.
@Toad240 Start a build thread please!
I'm about to build a second b20 for a mate. The issue with going to a b21 piston is the bore thickness after is 1mm in the thinnest area afterwards on some blocks, I'm not comfortable with that for a 5% power gain on a street car myself. Plus the overbore costs about $500 as a result.
I'm happy with the Clive cam in my 122 b20, but the head has large valves etc so it's performance is different to one with a stock unported head.
I'm about to build a second b20 for a mate. The issue with going to a b21 piston is the bore thickness after is 1mm in the thinnest area afterwards on some blocks, I'm not comfortable with that for a 5% power gain on a street car myself. Plus the overbore costs about $500 as a result.
I'm happy with the Clive cam in my 122 b20, but the head has large valves etc so it's performance is different to one with a stock unported head.
9 days later
STD B21 pistons are safe for a B20, I have done a couple with B23, but i did put new sleeves in.
Its more than 5% in power the extra torque alone is worth it and it allows you to un shroud the valves.
Its more than 5% in power the extra torque alone is worth it and it allows you to un shroud the valves.