I have recently just completed an M66 swap into an 04 XC70, not unlike Jays:

https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/3308/the-return-of-jays-v70xc-ft-m66awd-the-official-manual-conversion-thread/p1

I got a lot of inspiration from a couple of other threads:

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?191965-Some-updates-01-XC
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?206509-2001-V70-T5-manual-transmission-swap

But photobucket has now ruined them, so I thought I would share a few pictures of my own and some details of the different things I did along the way. Some of this might be obvious to some but hopefully it will be useful to others who might embark on this "fun" task.


Before doing anything, I chucked the TCU and jumped the CAN bus to check It would start without having a hissy fit.


I got a used M66 AWD from Sweden, and I needed to change the spline coupling. It took me a while to get it off, eventually I drilled a hole through it and made an attachment for a heavy slide hammer. This alone was not enough, I needed to apply a lot of heat with a heatgun as well. I nearly got out the blowtorch when it finally decided to move.

I have heard of people cutting slots in two sides with an angle grinder and using a wheel puller.

This subject could be a thread of it's own...


Pro tip: don't waste time detaching the power steering rack from the subframe take it all out in one go. The most likely thing that will catch is the RHS brake line, keep an eye out for it. I had a leak in my rack which thankfully was just the inlet/outlet couplings so I wanted a closer peek, but I would do it this way if I did it again.


Out went the angle gear and the turbo, I was not going to waste the opportunity not to put in a 16T. After removing the turbo I discovered about half of the nuts on the exhaust manifold were loose! Is this a normal thing ? This 04 model also had an R manifold fitted as standard, so you don't always have to scavenge one as it is a good upgrade option.


Bye bye slushbox. On my Ghetto transmission jack.




Time to do the insides. You might just be able to get the pedals out/in without removing the steering if you were familiar. But I couldn't see what I was doing, so it had to come out.

Another tip: Put the hose on the top of the clutch master cylinder, before putting it in, it is a royal pain to do afterwards.

Gear shifter came from a D5 Diesel XC70, as these have an M66 fitted also.


Flywheel and clutch:

I used an 850 SMF flywheel, a 850R pressure plate and an EVO 7,8,9 friction disc.
You could probably use a heavy duty RX7 friction disc as well. I got an SD-693 but it looked too wimpy so I opted for the EVO one. Either way it is not quite the right contact area so I hope I do not get problems down the track as things wear.

For the slave, I used the part for the S60R, as it seemed to have a little more travel that the one used for S40/V50 (what this gearbox came from)





The gearbox, 16T Turbo and angle gear all went in without too much fuss. Also fitted a 3" downpipe made by one of the local exhaust shops. He wouldn't do the full length without the car so did the top half first. I drove it down afterwards to get it finished.

Note the agricultural intermediate lever, something in my gut said paying $400 or so dollars for a chunk of cast iron was a bit much. So I made my own. Your other option might be: https://www.twmperformance.com/volvo-s60r-short-shifter



The subframe went back after the shafts went in and I made a new brake line after bending it one too many times to feel comfortable.

I managed to get a set of used manual XC70 shafts from the UK fully shipped for about $350 (mostly shipping), the outer joints were heavily corroded as they salt the earth there in winter I assume. But the outer joints from the Automatic shafts were swapped over without issue.

Another thing to note is the bottom half of the clutch hose I am using the part for the M58/M56 not the M66 (it has an extra metal loop) it seems to be perfectly adequate provided you get the extra 90 degree bend (not pictured)


Electrical related

I ran both the clutch position sensor and the reverse switch through the firewall through the same grommet that carries the bonnet release cable. There is another grommet on the passenger footwell that could probably be used for the reverse if you so choose.

Adding the clutch position sensor back is worth it for the cruise control if you get a tune done.

For the reverse lights I ran a pair of wires all the way to the REM via the passenger side of the car. In the REM I added a new relay for the reverse lights (I assume pulling the original might upset the REM, so I left it there) I originally powered the relay from the same source as the reverse lights, but of course this is constantly powered. (this is what is pictured)

I have since changed this to power the relay from the 4WD coupling circuit as this is only active while the ignition is on and turns off a few seconds after ignition is turned off.



All back together now, with an intake elbow as well.


Is there a ritual that should be performed with these parts to make up for the crime of putting them in a Volvo in the first place ?
Hello conversion friend! Congrats on the swap! Cars an awful lot better to drive now isn't it? Wish my thread was as comprehensive as yours, I just forgot to take photos. I also wish I bothered to do something about my turbo while I was in there, but still the old 13T is in healthy condition and is plodding along okay.

My ECU is on its way back from the states as we speak now, getting tuned so the cruise will work again. I see you wired all yours correctly as I did so it will be possible for you to do the same. Did yours start without the TCU? Mine did not, still has to have it. Although now with the tune I should be able to remove it.

Ritual: I tore my auto transmission apart (I was interested to see why it died) but that's fairly messy haha
Thanks, much better to drive. I do not miss the constant disengagement of the LUTC, the unnecessary downshifts and lack of torque in the lower gears. Thankfully the synchros on my used gearbox seem to be in good shape.

Yes I already have the tuned ECU, the cruise control and tune all just worked. I could not be happier with the people from Oregon. I have no demons to debug. The 16T with 11 blade turbine spools up very quickly. It is a shame 12psi is all the engine can handle. I can't say my fuel consumption has improved around town :-) I will find out how the highway goes, but my tyres are not that fuel friendly anyway.

Starting without the TCU was fine for me so long as the CAN bus was passed through and the start inhibitor was grounded (blue/yellow) I think on my car, the colours do change on some years. Did you have an interlock cable in the ignition switch? I removed mine completely without any effects.
great work @drvolvo – very impressive!

But, as I have yet to stuff my slushbox XC90 engine back in, why must you tempt me?

Actually wanted to ask, where did you get the 16T?
Always willing to help temp people with their vices :-)

Your XC90 is an 05 ? Are you thinking of a manual conversion? Not sure post conversion all the puters will be happy, maybe you can get all the modules + keys from a smashed 04 and swap them out if the wiring is the same. Then you can get the tune done. If you don't have 4C then maybe only DSTC will be upset?

I got a used TD04HL-16T off a C70 via fleabay (it was an odd part number so did not attract the usual attention) for a few hundred or so and rebuilt it.

I got a new actuator, 11 blade exhaust turbine + housing from Taiwan, as the housing on mine while 7cm^2 seemed a little bit restrictive before the wastegate and had a small crack in it. The wastegate on the 2.5T will be very busy since it hits 12psi very quickly, so I felt that a free flowing bypass was important to stop any overshoot.

You can re-use the CHRA from your 04L-14T if you can scavenge the other bits for cheap. You are welcome to my discarded housing if you like.
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