No Start

familyman · 2017-08-30T09:09:22+00:00

YM 1990 will be LH 2.4. Have you checked for codes?

familyman

Grr... Battery is flat for some reason! (Edit: Oh - left the doors open all night. But I replaced the interior bulb with an LED - that shouldn't flatten the battery in 12 hours, unless they draw far more current than I thought.)

Yes, removing fuse 6 and powering fuse 4 externally turns tank pump on.

DW42

Here's the altered FI fuse on mine (marked with a red arrow). The wires go to the battery and into the harness.

familyman

Thanks.

* Thought for a minute there I'd killed the main pump. So I bridged 4 & 6, heard pump/s running, went to boot and unplugged tank pump, heard it drop out, but main pump stayed on.

Slowbrick

Have you tried applying 12v to fuse 6 and bridging to 4 and turning the key to see if it primes?

familyman

Sort of did that a little while ago, but I'll do again in a sec... (One aligator clip on my patch lead broke. Waiting for soldering iron to heat up to fix it.)

Some mechanic online wrote to disconnect the battery before unplugging the EZK/ECU. So I just unclipped it (still plugged in though) to try and read off the part number, to be sure I've got the right module... Anyway, I felt to try the key after unclipping it (in case it's just a broken wire, etc. and moving it was enough to reconnect). The car was much closer to starting - nearly every cycle around it was spluttering trying to start, instead of one short splutter and nothing like it has been. Still no pumps for fuel of course. So I'll resolder the patch lead, run the pumps manually, and try to start before doing what you asked again to be sure.

familyman

That didn't work. Ok...

Slowbrick;117472 wroteHave you tried applying 12v to fuse 6 and bridging to 4 and turning the key to see if it primes?

* Just bridged 4 & 6 again - both pumps run - crank - no start. Then remembered the relay visibly unlatched itself before, when cranking with the key, so...
* Bridged 4 & 6 and applied external 12V to both. No start.
* Fuel came out of the rear of the fuel pressure regulator last night when I removed the hose.

So I assume these three means the injectors have fuel primed ready to go?

familyman

Can I test the CPS without removing it from the car?

Slowbrick

familyman;117476 wroteThat didn't work. Ok...

Slowbrick;117472 wroteHave you tried applying 12v to fuse 6 and bridging to 4 and turning the key to see if it primes?
* Just bridged 4 & 6 again - both pumps run - crank - no start. Then remembered the relay visibly unlatched itself before, when cranking with the key, so...
* Bridged 4 & 6 and applied external 12V to both. No start.
* Fuel came out of the rear of the fuel pressure regulator last night when I removed the hose.

So I assume these three means the injectors have fuel primed ready to go?

Having fuel at the rail but not having firing injectors is two different things. I still think your ECU is not getting power it is broken. If it's still not priming the pumps when turning the key then it's a strong indicator something there is still wrong.

Your car runs on lighter fluid so your CPS is probably fine.

When you turn the key and it primes it does so without the CPS so the CPS won't stop the priming.

familyman

Just found the CPS does have a crack in the outer insulation but that's up at its the top plug. But even if faulty, the CPS wouldn't stop the fuel pumps running at key turn-on, correct?

This is the same ECU: http://www.ebay.com/itm/401167908722

Time to wash up, walk to the takeaway for something to eat before coming back. Nearly out of money, nearly out of food... LOL.

carnut222

There must be somebody near you who could offer to swap out their known working ECU and also fuel pump relay...I'd offer but in country Vic. The fuel ECU with pink label...I think 561...is prone to fail. Fuel ECU is located behind trim panel next to the accelerator pedal. There is no fuse in the engine bay on 91 240. There's a good troubleshooting for LH2.4 in the Bentley blue Volvo 240 workshop manual, and it includes what pins on the fuel ECU to check for power etc. I have one somewhere but not sure where since we moved...maybe somebody else can scan and upload the image.

Major Ledfoot

familyman;117484 wroteJust found the CPS does have a crack in the outer insulation but that's up at its the top plug. But even if faulty, the CPS wouldn't stop the fuel pumps running at key turn-on, correct?

Incorrect. The fuel ECU detects an 'ignition on' status and latches the fuel pump relay on briefly to prime the rail.

When the starter motor is engaged, the fuel pumps operate via the starter circuit. LH 2.4 provides 2 injections per revolution in start mode.

When the engine starts, the ECU provides the fuel pump relay with the means to stay operated.

familyman

carnut222;117487 wroteThere must be somebody near

Slowbrick is closest I think, and he's giving enough valuable help. :-)

carnut222;117487 wroteThere's a good troubleshooting for LH2.4 in the Bentley

I read about that Bentley list, haven't looked for it yet.

Ok. (Other) panel off. Found it (again, LOL).

familyman

bgpzfm142;117491 wroteIncorrect. The fuel ECU detects...

But if the crank position sensor were broken, it measures engine rotation, yes? So even if it were faulty, it won't stop the fuel pumps priming when the key is first turned to dash lights on position, will it? (Because the engine hasn't been cranked yet, but the pumps turn on.)

familyman

Fuel ECU part number is: 0 280 000 561

Slowbrick

561 is pink label I think. Where are you located familyman?

jamesinc

$40 + post

familyman

See PM James. (When I type it, LOL.)

I've been doing a lot of reading...

* Yes, my 561 has a pink label. Made in Germany. Apparently the common fault is the integrated circuits are coated in a silicon, that allows moisture in to cause corrosion. I wish I could find more info on this part of it, because I have some experience with electronics, and it makes little sense what they're referring to. (Corrosion on the pins, moisture actually entering the chip internally!?)
* White 561s are better, but have also been known to fail.
* You can also buy remanufactured units that have had the ICs replaced. Sometimes they give you the same ECU number, sometimes they don't (see next point).
* A '0 280 000 561' can be replaced by a few different numbers, but '0 280 000 951' is the most common people swap in. However the original 561 has provision for "cold start valve operation", whereas the 951 does not.

Q: What is a "cold start valve" (is it the "cold start injector"?), what is the effect of losing that feature, and what would need to be done to deal with that?

jamesinc

The cold start valve is basically an extra injector that comes on when the car needs to go rich AF. I forget what temperature it comes in at, but it's extremely cold, like -10°C.

familyman

Feels like that now out here, LOL. I can't feel my feet.

familyman

Ok, removed rear of ECU wiring plug. Now to work out if I can test using that picture, or if I can find this Bentley troubleshooting guide.

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