driedle
The tachometer is electric, and an adapter is stupid simple.
Go to this site:
http://www.ashlocktech.com.
The product is Tach-Adapt. It changes the timing of the tachometer, and can go from 4-cyl to 6-cyl. Lots of Porsche guys use it when converting a 912 to 911, and 914s to 916s. They are $65.00 USD.
I have one for my NOS GT Instrument cluster for my 164, but have not installed it yet.
David Riedle
USA
OldnDecrepit
Many thanks David. Apparently there are adjustment pots in the tacho but they might not be enough to adapt it. This is very useful.
242GT
Many years ago I had a white 1973 164E factory 5speed, great cars, I got a holden 308 electric fan and a Davis Craig thermo fan kit and put it on to help the engine in summer worth its weight in gold as the straight 6 can run hot in summer.
Nolothane used to do suspension bushes, I had Bilstein shocks and springs all round in mine.
Used to tow my 144 race car to Wakefield Park with it.
Rob
242GT;c-146982 wroteMany years ago I had a white 1973 164E factory 5speed, great cars, I got a holden 308 electric fan and a Davis Craig thermo fan kit and put it on to help the engine in summer worth its weight in gold as the straight 6 can run hot in summer.
Nolothane used to do suspension bushes, I had Bilstein shocks and springs all round in mine.
Used to tow my 144 race car to Wakefield Park with it.
split into a seperate thread :)
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/9601/the-old-140-days
242GT
Thanks for that I don't know how to do that
242GT
242GT
Sorry but my spare is a designated 4cyl as shown in stamping on taco "4zyl".
I have seen them in the past as 6zyl but rare as.
Best use an adaptor.
242GT
Actually if you contact Roger through his eBay site I reckon he can help you.
242GT
OldnDecrepit
Thanks, have been in touch and am sourcing a 6 cylinder unit.
OldnDecrepit
On Monday I drove Viktoria to GLT Car Centre for some attention.
Cruising in overdrive (4th gear) on the freeway at 2200revs makes it a lot quieter drive. Just need to get that AC working again.
I originally booked her in for a tune-up but Peer now has a list of about a dozen things to look at, including the brakes, AC, water pump, heater control valve.
So far the biggest ticket item (about $500) is the brake booster which needs refurbishment. I should get her back some time next week.
In the meantime Sofia, my 1996 Volvo 960, is back in my hands after being loaned out to a friend.
OldnDecrepit
Picked up Viktoria today from GLT Car Centre where Peer was working some of his magic on her.
She been fitted with a reconditioned brake booster (yeah - brakes!), new panhard bushes, fuel filter, water pump and heater tap (new style). Also got the A/C working again (a blocked receiver/dryer). Peer also fixed the sticking drivers seat belt and the bonnet catch.
I'm still have an apparent "running hot" issue. There's not much left to replace in the system but I have got a new temperature sensor on the way. We suspect that she's not actually overheating even though the reading on the gauge is very high. A check with a infrared thermometer showed the temps at the top and bottom radiator hoses as quite normal so the radiator doing a good job of cooling. I'll know more when the new sensor arrives.
I drove up to GLT in my C70 and left it there for some more of his magic. There's some go faster bits in the boot for installation as well as a few repairs.
I'll give Viktoria a wash tomorrow and take some more pictures. By the way, the 4-speed auto that Rob Eldridge fitted ran superbly and she cruised down the M1 at 110kph loping along at about 2200rpm. No engine noise in the cabin, just the fan noise from the A/C and some road noise. I can definitely recommend this as an upgrade to any of the 164s and early 260s.
Major Ledfoot
Does engaging the heater make any difference to the high temperature reading?
My 145 showed a high reading all the time; I replaced the temp sender and it was all good after that.
There was a bloke on Swedespeed who ran into silt problems in the block between #5 and #6, so it may be worth seeing with the IR thermometer if the temps are pretty much the same across the head.
OldnDecrepit
Turning on the heater didn't help but turning off the AC did yesterday.
Interestingly driving the car today with no AC, there was no sign of the high gauge readings but it was nowhere near as hot today. I have since replaced the sensor and, at idle, the needle sits at the top of the "N" on the gauge, even with the AC on. I will take her for a run tomorrow and do some more testing.
ab1
The top of N is nothing to worry about in theory it's only in the 80s I believe. The 1 series didn't have a temp faker that kept the guage in the middle for mild adjustments in temp.
If it's just sitting at the top of N at idle I wouldn't worry too much. Does it go back down when you start moving?
My guage goes to 3/4 area of the green before the E fan kicks on at 82 degrees. I will be upgrading to a twin setup soon to cope with the added demand of a/c.
If youd like the b30 to rev easier and sound nicer without that whooshing noise I'd recommend switching out the viscous ?
OldnDecrepit
Did a test drive this morning in Viktoria. The needle of the gauge stayed at the bottom of the N for the whole time on the highway with the AC running. Turned off the highway and the needle went up. Back at home at idle with the bonnet up the needle remains high. Drops a bit with the AC turned off but still remains above the N.
ab1
what ambient temps are you in. i suspect it is just the reduced airflow (from the condenser plus trans cooler) causing the temp to go up a bit. what temperature is your ac fan set to come on at?
im planning on trying to get some twin EL falcon fans to stick behind my rad. only about 60$ from the wreckers if i can make them fit. then theres these as an alternative.
https://www.xtremeautoparts.com.au/shop/pc/SPAL-Puller-Fan-Twin-11-quot-Straight-12V-2720-CFM-29-8Amp-811p7338.htm
OldnDecrepit
The fan wired to the AC runs when the compressor runs plus I have a switch on the console to run it manually.
There shouldn't be any more heat from the trans cooler than originally as the heat from the trans went into the radiator originally. There is, of course, some flow reduction. The viscous coupling has been replaced and there's plenty of air flow. I'm still thinking that there's something wrong with the gauge reading.
OldnDecrepit
Just took her for another run down the M1 and then dropped into my local mechanic's place as he has a IR temperature probe. Car ran perfectly on the M1 but the needle went up when I parked at the garage.
So at idle with AC running, the needle is almost to the orange mark on the gauge. But the IR probe is showing only 82 at the top radiator hose and 10C or more lower at the bottom pipe. As soon as I drove off the needle dropped again to the middle of the N. I'm left with two possibilities
1. the gauge is faulty or
2. there really is not enough air flow when stopped.
I'll stop fretting about it now that I have checked the actual temperatures using the IR probe.
1971_144GL
I would try checking the belt tension and hardness first - if is is slipping from not being tight or the belt is hard and not gripping well then the operation of the fan and water pump may be poor at low RPM. Some new belts can slacken a bit. Some of the aftermarket don't seem to pump that well. And after all that, my 164 pretty much always did as you are describing on a hot day anyway at idle - but the durable cast iron engine never became unhappy.
