Newish Volvo V50 AWD T5 -6 speed - time to modify

veefifty

So I figured I'd best come clean and post my details up instead of lurking in the background... I picked up this V50 in September last year from Adelaide and drove it back to Sydney.

It's my first Volvo and I really love it. I was looking for a manual T5 AWD off and on for 12 months so when this one came up I jumped on it. It's got fairly low kms (75,000) and was always serviced at the dealer.

I had always intened to modify it (without going too crazy) and I'm just about to get started. I'm looking to kick off with the handling - so I've been looking at various coilover set ups but I must say it's hard to get much specific info on what works and what doesn't. I've been thinking about KW V2's but they are so expensive - all feedback I've been able to find is positive though (I'd bloody hope so!).

A more budget alternative I'm thiking of are BC's RA model (http://bcracing.com.au/zg-14-ra). I'm trying to find a review of them on a Volvo before I jump that way though. Part 2 is a thicker rear sway bar.

Once I've got that sorted I'll move on to wheels and tyres before I look at power enhancement.

Anyway that's it for me now. I'll post an update when I've made a decsion on the coilovers!

Cheers

Vee_Que

Bcs are not really worth it if they are the base model ones. You do get what you pay for there.

Philia_Bear

BC's are crap on the S40
KW v1 are tolerable on a road car
v2/v3 are about the same as the B16kit I have in my s40 which is intolerable for 99% of people

With the right spring rates and shocks, there is ZERO value in touching the sway bar, the only reason it sways slightly badly from the factory is due to the obscene height and soft spring rates
Fix them and you discover that volvo got the sway bars dead on for a road car

@AshDVS can supply some nifty lower control arm bushings that I highly reccomend

Replace tyres with some RE003's

If you want performance from the engine
I'm going down the path of DO88 intercooler, doing my own intake and hoses and then someones tune for max power on the stock turbo after doing something with the **** exhaust and DP

However... there is a pile of stage 0 stuff that should be done to the engine and AWD system first
1. Ignore what volvo says about the timing belt, it should be done at 7 years or 100,000km, do the water pump and seals at the same time
2. Volvo sprak plugs only
3. Change out the angle gear oil
4. Change out the haldex filter and oil
5. Change out the rear diff oil (GL5)
6. Change out the trans oil (Synthetic GL4!!!!, GL5 will kill the syncros)
7. Replace the lower engine mount with the e-focus part

veefifty

That's what I figured. These are the mid spec ones (top spec is really to firm/its set for race use). I can't seem to find anyone who has used them though...

Philia_Bear

I've driven S40's with both V2 and V3
Same spring rate just different dampening rates and single vs doubble adjustment from what I remember
Both cars rode the same as my S40 with the B16 kit, just had slightly different shock tunning for getting the max out of the car on a serious circuit

veefifty

Philia_Bear;112619 wroteBC's are crap on the S40
KW v1 are tolerable on a road car
v2/v3 are about the same as the B16kit I have in my s40 which is intolerable for 99% of people

With the right spring rates and shocks, there is ZERO value in touching the sway bar, the only reason it sways slightly badly from the factory is due to the obscene height and soft spring rates
Fix them and you discover that volvo got the sway bars dead on for a road car

@AshDVS can supply some nifty lower control arm bushings that I highly reccomend

Replace tyres with some RE003's

If you want performance from the engine
I'm going down the path of DO88 intercooler, doing my own intake and hoses and then someones tune for max power on the stock turbo after doing something with the **** exhaust and DP

However... there is a pile of stage 0 stuff that should be done to the engine and AWD system first
1. Ignore what volvo says about the timing belt, it should be done at 7 years or 100,000km, do the water pump and seals at the same time
2. Volvo sprak plugs only
3. Change out the angle gear oil
4. Change out the haldex filter and oil
5. Change out the rear diff oil (GL5)
6. Change out the trans oil (Synthetic GL4!!!!, GL5 will kill the syncros)
7. Replace the lower engine mount with the e-focus part

Thanks for the advice. I'm doing most of that stage zero stuff over the next two weeks. I didn't have number 7 0n the list though so I'll take a look at that too.

I'm kind of stumped about what to do with the suspension though... I think I might stick with the idea of the KW's... I don't mind if it's firm as it's a weekend play car only but I don't want it rattling my teeth out on evrery bump!

Spac

What sort of money are the KWs?

Also, manual T5 AWD wagon is a big win. I'm jealous.

Philia_Bear

veefifty;112627 wrote
Philia_Bear;112619 wroteBC's are crap on the S40
KW v1 are tolerable on a road car
v2/v3 are about the same as the B16kit I have in my s40 which is intolerable for 99% of people

With the right spring rates and shocks, there is ZERO value in touching the sway bar, the only reason it sways slightly badly from the factory is due to the obscene height and soft spring rates
Fix them and you discover that volvo got the sway bars dead on for a road car

@AshDVS can supply some nifty lower control arm bushings that I highly reccomend

Replace tyres with some RE003's

If you want performance from the engine
I'm going down the path of DO88 intercooler, doing my own intake and hoses and then someones tune for max power on the stock turbo after doing something with the **** exhaust and DP

However... there is a pile of stage 0 stuff that should be done to the engine and AWD system first
1. Ignore what volvo says about the timing belt, it should be done at 7 years or 100,000km, do the water pump and seals at the same time
2. Volvo sprak plugs only
3. Change out the angle gear oil
4. Change out the haldex filter and oil
5. Change out the rear diff oil (GL5)
6. Change out the trans oil (Synthetic GL4!!!!, GL5 will kill the syncros)
7. Replace the lower engine mount with the e-focus part
Thanks for the advice. I'm doing most of that stage zero stuff over the next two weeks. I didn't have number 7 0n the list though so I'll take a look at that too.

I'm kind of stumped about what to do with the suspension though... I think I might stick with the idea of the KW's... I don't mind if it's firm as it's a weekend play car only but I don't want it rattling my teeth out on evrery bump!

If your sydney based your welcome to come drive my s40

veefifty

Spac;112636 wroteWhat sort of money are the KWs?

Also, manual T5 AWD wagon is a big win. I'm jealous.

Cheers - it was hard to find!

KW's are about $3K :astonished: I was really hoping to spend no more than $2K really.

veefifty

Philia_Bear;112642 wrote
veefifty;112627 wrote
Philia_Bear;112619 wroteBC's are crap on the S40
KW v1 are tolerable on a road car
v2/v3 are about the same as the B16kit I have in my s40 which is intolerable for 99% of people

With the right spring rates and shocks, there is ZERO value in touching the sway bar, the only reason it sways slightly badly from the factory is due to the obscene height and soft spring rates
Fix them and you discover that volvo got the sway bars dead on for a road car

@AshDVS can supply some nifty lower control arm bushings that I highly reccomend

Replace tyres with some RE003's

If you want performance from the engine
I'm going down the path of DO88 intercooler, doing my own intake and hoses and then someones tune for max power on the stock turbo after doing something with the **** exhaust and DP

However... there is a pile of stage 0 stuff that should be done to the engine and AWD system first
1. Ignore what volvo says about the timing belt, it should be done at 7 years or 100,000km, do the water pump and seals at the same time
2. Volvo sprak plugs only
3. Change out the angle gear oil
4. Change out the haldex filter and oil
5. Change out the rear diff oil (GL5)
6. Change out the trans oil (Synthetic GL4!!!!, GL5 will kill the syncros)
7. Replace the lower engine mount with the e-focus part
Thanks for the advice. I'm doing most of that stage zero stuff over the next two weeks. I didn't have number 7 0n the list though so I'll take a look at that too.

I'm kind of stumped about what to do with the suspension though... I think I might stick with the idea of the KW's... I don't mind if it's firm as it's a weekend play car only but I don't want it rattling my teeth out on evrery bump!

If your sydney based your welcome to come drive my s40

I appreciate the offer Philia - I might take you up on that some time :+1:

carnut222

Nice looking car! We have a 2008 C30 T5 R-Design with the 6-speed manual - a joy to drive. Have the MTE tune from VP Tuning - great power and economy. I must do the timing belt this year - pushing 10 years is kinda scary!

Spac

I know that they don't sound as cool as coilovers, but what about a set of Bilstein sport shocks?

Philia_Bear

Spac;112670 wroteI know that they don't sound as cool as coilovers, but what about a set of Bilstein sport shocks?

Available for the front only

Rears for an AWD are.... Stock... or... coilovers... effing sucks for choice some times

egads (she/her)

Rears rebuildable?

Philia_Bear

egads;112688 wroteRears rebuildable?

The ones from Volvo? I would assume so but I doubt you could change the valving enough to make it work right

veefifty

Philia_Bear;112674 wrote
Spac;112670 wroteI know that they don't sound as cool as coilovers, but what about a set of Bilstein sport shocks?
Available for the front only

Rears for an AWD are.... Stock... or... coilovers... effing sucks for choice some times

Bang on. I'd be happy for a set of sport springs and shocks if they made them (Other than Heico which are out of production). Choice is difficult... either it's expensive and probably alright or cheap and not cheerful...

veefifty

carnut222;112668 wroteNice looking car! We have a 2008 C30 T5 R-Design with the 6-speed manual - a joy to drive. Have the MTE tune from VP Tuning - great power and economy. I must do the timing belt this year - pushing 10 years is kinda scary!

Cheers! I lusted after a c30 when they first came out but with a couple of kids the V50 is somewhat more practical for my situation :) C30 is a great looking car though.

Spac

I'd suggest calling Heasmans and/or Quadrant and asking about some custom Bilstein shocks. They will probably be expensive for "just" Bilsteins, but they should still be much cheaper than the KWs, and will be more what you want.

veefifty

Spac;112721 wroteI'd suggest calling Heasmans and/or Quadrant and asking about some custom Bilstein shocks. They will probably be expensive for "just" Bilsteins, but they should still be much cheaper than the KWs, and will be more what you want.

Not a bad idea. I did email Heasmans awhile ago and didnt get a reply. It's always different seeing someone in person or by phone. I havent heard of Quadrant but I'll check them out. Cheers

cubic25

I fucking love the woodgrain. The fact that it is real wood gives me real wood :3 Creepyness aside, congrats on the rare find. Hopefully Ash can help you out with the suspension.
Is the rear sway bar the same for the AWD model, or are they also different? If same, I'd also definitely change that when you get a chance.
What were you thinking of doing in the way of engine mods?

EDIT: If I had to get coils, I'd be getting Billies or nothing. I rode in a C30 with Billies and it was amazing. I've currently got B8's on the front, with Eibach springs, and I love it. Irrelevant to you though, as mine is FWD.