jamesinc paul0075;c-147189 wroteMessage me if you ditch the heated mirrors Will do, but probably won't ditch them for ages as they're a high effort weight reduction
Xs4Eyes jamesinc;c-147178 wrotejlfents;c-147174 wroteAre you going to remove that glued down tar whatever it is too? Yeah - I want to try the liquid nitrogen dry ice approach. I did this in my Celica. Recommend putting the pellets in plastic bags (bread bags, whatever) easier and safer to move it around, and you can stack them up or tape them to vertical surfaces. Give it plenty of time to work and it will lift off in big sheets, don't be hasty - let it work.
paul0075 jamesinc;c-147191 wrotepaul0075;c-147189 wroteMessage me if you ditch the heated mirrors Will do, but probably won't ditch them for ages as they're a high effort weight reduction I’m happy to swap for the later or earlier manual mirrors with interior levers
jamesinc paul0075;c-147214 wrotejamesinc;c-147191 wrotepaul0075;c-147189 wroteMessage me if you ditch the heated mirrors Will do, but probably won't ditch them for ages as they're a high effort weight reduction I’m happy to swap for the later or earlier manual mirrors with interior levers I'm sure you are :)
Raebird jamesinc;c-147171 wroteDid a bit of weight reduction over the long weekend: We're down to about 1250kg + fuel + driver The roof racks are cool but they're probably going to be deleted soon. Also, I have an excuse now to buy an air chisel: Have you weighed the car or is that a guesstimation?
jamesinc @Raebird I keep taking it over the weighbridge at the tip when I bin chunks of interior. It would be nice to have some corner weights though!
ljk346 Home brew corner weights https://racemagazine.com.au/cars/budget-diy-corner-weight-scales Some proper science for ya
AshDVS excellent idea. i have an excel sheet that you can plug your numbers into to give you cross weight and f-r rear split if you want it. we used it with karting a lot because $14 kmart bathroom scales pack up into the trailer easier than our proper scales and you don't care if they get damaged.
jamesinc Battery voltage as measured at pin 4 of the ECU: Injector pulse at idle: AMM signal at idle: RPM sensor at idle:
jamesinc I played around with the scope some more and worked out that the oscillation you see in the signal is interference from mains AC (if you look closely you can see it has about a 50Hz frequency). This was because I was using a 10x attenuating probe, which means the signal is attenuated by a factor of 10. Switching to a 1x probe, I get a much stronger signal to the oscilloscope and the 50Hz interference is not really visible for most signals.
jamesinc I started porting a 531 head. So far so good, I guess. I need to do a bit more work to straighten out the exhaust runners. They're enlarged at the outlet, but about half way down I haven't taken off much material yet. Around the valve seat is fairly close I think, I was just trying to smooth out the transition between seat and port, and round off the inner radius of the port. I am waiting on intake gaskets in the mail so I haven't done the intake side yet.
jamesinc Fred Long thread! Which page do you detail the engine specs/design on?jamesinc I started porting a 531 head. So far so good, I guess. I need to do a bit more work to straighten out the exhaust runners. They're enlarged at the outlet, but about half way down I haven't taken off much material yet. Around the valve seat is fairly close I think, I was just trying to smooth out the transition between seat and port, and round off the inner radius of the port. I am waiting on intake gaskets in the mail so I haven't done the intake side yet. ^ Here. Not hugely interesting, it runs a KL-Racing T3 cam, 38/46mm valves, ported and polished 531 head, extractors. I'll probably do the plenum and TB next and I've hit the limits of LH-2.4 especially below 2500RPM the EZK just doesn't want to give me the timing I want so will probably move to MS2 or Haltech next.
jamesinc Cylinder head is back, now sporting oversize valves. I've done most of the assembly and I'll have to order 2mm lash caps to run my cam (I have 3mm caps but the new valves are 1mm longer overall so the clearance is too tight for Volvo's usual shim selection).
jamesinc I had to order a set of 1.48mm lash caps to work with the re-cut seats and the new valves being about 1mm longer in the stem than the old ones. They showed up today, so I installed and shimmed/clearanced the cam, and installed the seals. So the head is good to go now, just need to fit it.
