Vee_Que
Stick with the 19t, especially with the bigger rear housing. I don't see boost spiking as am issue with a good intercooler and a tune though.
Julian
Yeah in the near future I'll be getting a tune (actually i might put up a wanted ad for the m4.4 ecu now whilst i think of it) but not currently planning to do an intercooler upgrade for a while. I guess as long as the car can be driven without risk of having a hand grenade go off in my engine bay before i get the tune sorted it's ok.
Philia_Bear
I near alwaus go with a billet 19t as the cost of having the turbo rebuilt is the same for me if using a stock 16t wheel or using a billet 19t wheel
Julian
Ok, I am probably going to get a whole new kinugawa rather than rebuild my current one and put a new wheel into it, as I wouldn't mind having new wastegate actuator and cbv whilst I'm in there, and would otherwise have to get the whole thing rebalanced.
deleted_user_160
Philia_Bear;106022 wroteI near alwaus go with a billet 19t as the cost of having the turbo rebuilt is the same for me if using a stock 16t wheel or using a billet 19t wheel
Though the OP was cast vs billet
Philia_Bear
Julian;106027 wroteOk, I am probably going to get a whole new kinugawa rather than rebuild my current one and put a new wheel into it, as I wouldn't mind having new wastegate actuator and cbv whilst I'm in there, and would otherwise have to get the whole thing rebalanced.
The cost being the same for getting a new kinagawa one vs rebuilt with a kts wheel and kinagawa housing and mitsubishi bearings
Id go down the path of rebuilt any day of the week
deleted_user_160
I would like tackle the kinugawa unit my self.
Keep your existing unit, as spare or sell off get some money back and spend it on an intercooler or tune. That your holding off on.
Vee_Que
Having just been in a 850r with a 20t and larger rear housing . The compressor surge does not appear to be an issue.
Julian
Hey @Vee_Que , interesting to hear. I guess I don't really understand how the larger housing prevents that surge- I would have thought having a more freely flowing housing would make boost spiking even worse? I have also only really heard people talk about it happening with the 19T for some reason.
I am also interested to know why companies like ipd list the 18T as the standard turbo for their "stage 3" upgrades, rather than the 19T?
I'm on the cusp of getting one or the other, but am wondering if predominantly driving around Newcastle the 18T would be better suited. There's additional pressure for me to get this job done now since the car is sitting in pieces taking up half the room in my dad's garage where his 850 should be haha
Vee_Que
Just go for the slightly bigger one. The surge is not happening as additional flow is not overspeeding the turbo near the top, unlike the smaller housing.
Julian
Ok, when you say "near the top" you mean T higher rpm? I was thinking surge tended to be low rpm problem with this turbo, hence people saying not to go full throttle at low rpm without a tune? Sorry for all the questions, it's just good to know what's going on and there seems to be a bunch of different opinions out there around this topic. Cheers
Vee_Que
It's life blowing through a thick straw vs a thin straw onto a wheel, both spin it. One takes a tad longer/spin it slower. Which is fine for the bigger wheel
Julian
Ok, thanks. Regardless of whether I go with an 18 or 19, is it possible to just buy the turbine wheel and have fitted to my existing chra with whatever balancing may be required? Or get the whole cartridge and use my existing compressor and turbine housings? Just trying to figure out whether buying a whole new turbo is required or whether I could build it from some of my existing parts.
Vee_Que
Need a machined compressor housing, a chra would be simpler and not much more considering balancing costs.
deleted_user_160
Fork out and buy the whole turbo, and then get some money back by selling your old turbo.
jamesinc
Yeah I've rebuilt turbos before and I just, don't even bother man, just buy a turbo brand spankers and save yourself a large quantity of headaches. Having the turbo rebuilt and re-balanced with the new compressor wheel is in itself almost as expensive (and sometimes way more expensive) than just buying a new turbo.
Ghettobird
Genuinely its going to make sweet F A of a difference on a mostly stock car if you go cast VS billet, The larger exhaust housing WILL make a difference up top in the rev-range, The "Spool control" is designed to stop you from eating a rod on a stock rod motor as the car wont spool as hard due to the clipping of the compressor blades - The car Alex is refering to is mine, totally untuned with H-beam rods, ported head, XC90 T5 Manifold and a high flowing exhaust, big F-Off intercooler, lightweight flywheel and a quaife
Its apples & oranges
The Kinugawa unit should be pretty good, get one with the billet compressor wheel as its not that much extra, bigger 7cm^2 exhaust housing, angled 3' DP, XC90 2.5T Manifold and you should be sweet
My only hangup on the 19ts is that they ARE rod benders, and if you are thinking of slapping one on without a proper tune then you may run into some exxy engine damage
Some have ran 19Ts in the past on a stock engine with only a manual boost controler and a rising rate FPR, but you are playing with fire
A safer alternative would be to go with a genuine 18T found on some of the V70Rs, green injectors with a nice DP and you would have a mad fun car, and not worry as much about your rods resembling bananas as much as you would with a 19T
Also considering your wagon dosnt have an LSD in it, anything bigger than an 18t would just rape tyres and change lanes for you on its own accord
Philia_Bear
The Kinagawa CHRA kits use aftermarket cast centers and generic bearings
I've had one apart and the quality was lower then genuine mitsubishi bits
My costs on the last 3 19t conversions were
$130 for a kinagawa 19t wheel and cold side housing from ebay shipped to my door
and
$500 to the turbo rebuild guy to
-Clean everything
-Mill out the CHRA for the bigger cold side wheel
-Rebuild using genuine mitsubishi bits
-Assemble
-High speed balance with report
-provide a warranty on work done
That still comes in less than just buying a kit off ebay and the quality is better
Ghettobird
Check this vid out for a bit of an idea - he is running sub 20 psi on an open diff car, its all over the place
Ghettobird
@Philia_Bear I got mine for very cheap in comparison to new, which is why It was a no-brainer for me
They seem like some reasonable numbers, Id definitely consider that route when i go through the process again
