jared244
I’m in Canberra as well. I’ve got a good ecu you can try if you like? Volvo updated the pink label -561 ECU with the white label one, same number, and less problem prone...
240
Thanks for the offer, I'll check which one it is, and let you know.
I was under the impression that only another pink label one would work but maybe I'm wrong.
Major Ledfoot
jared244
240;129161 wroteThanks for the offer, I'll check which one it is, and let you know.
I was under the impression that only another pink label one would work but maybe I'm wrong.
Not at all. You’ll definitely be able to swap a white label -561 straight in, there are other known compatible units as well. Have a look at the links above.
FYI I’m running a 16v 740/940 ecu at the moment in lieu of the white -561... works fine (doesn’t use the cold start injector - only difference)... going to put a 16v redblock in it soon to match. Haha
jamesinc
Pretty sure any LH-2.4 ECU will work (I even put an NA one in a Turbo once and it still ran, not recommended though)
They all have the same basic brain, they just have different features added/removed, like some have extra pins to control an e-fan, whereas others those pins don't do anything. Some have extra EGR pins, on others, pins aren't connected. But they're all interchangeable, I think.
Major Ledfoot
elvis35
I have the same light staying on with my 1997 S70 ????
deleted_user_2040
That's different. That's the later model volvo not the early rear wheel drive type like the 240 740 940
240
@jamesinc is it possible to split the stuff about the ECU's off into a different thread?
Now as for my coolant temp senser issue...
The light has come back on so regardless of anything else, technically the sensor is stuffed. Refer to my previous posts as to why that is odd.
Now as I mentioned initially I think, I'm running an e-fan.
I've noticed that for a few weeks at a time, everything runs correctly, with the temp gauge sitting around the middle, then it will suddenly change for a few weeks, and the temp needle won't every reach above about 1/4 of the gauge.
This is partially because the fan seems to be coming on when it shouldn't - I suspect a dodgy relay.
However ---- it could also be that the coolant is heating up too quickly for whatever reason, which may a) stuff up the temp sensor in some way and b) be causing the thermostat to open too early, resulting in the engine running too cool...
This is of course all speculation but interested to hear what you think. There's something that's not right I think.
240
This problem about the ECT still isn't resolved.
Here's the timeline of events: back in March last year, the light came on, diagnostic codes suggested faulty ECT, so I swapped in a used one from James.
Some time after that, the light came on again, and I got the same code. So recently, I bought a brand new ECT (thinking that maybe it was coincidence and James' one happened to die too) and it was fine for a bit.
But now the light is on again!
It seems pretty unlikely that 3 ECT's have spontaneously died.
Could it be a faulty ECU?
Or is there something else it could be?
Major Ledfoot
240;146092 wroteOr is there something else it could be?
A wiring fault, between the sensor and the ECU. Refer to the 240 wring Greenbook for the connection path. The 700 series Greenbook wiring diagram shows the path from sensor to ECU goes through 2 additional connectors.
240
You don't happen to have a link to the wiring Greenbook do you?
Major Ledfoot
Google for the LH 2.4 Greenbook, TP 31361/1 and the diagram is are on pages 54 and 55.
My bad; on the 240s, each blue-red wire goes directly to the ECU [pin 13] and the EZ-K [pin 2] from the sensor.
jamesinc
@bgpzfm142 it's on this page
https://ozvolvo.org/archive/
DW42
My '90 sedan has the same recurring 1-2-3 (ECT) code. The ECT was actually broken when I bought the car, and it was a pig to start when cold. A new ECT fixed it. But I noticed that it had brand new wiring all the way from the sensor through the firewall. Someone had also removed the bulb from the lambda light, so I put a bulb in it. It has since gone through periods of the light coming on repeatedly for 6 years with the 1-2-3 code. I had a three year break from the light coming on, then last summer it came on and had to be cleared about 5 times. It's in remission again now. I don't worry about it -- but it's my beater 240 and was cheap. I think I'll throw my laser temperature gun thing in the car, then next time the light comes on I'll get out and point it at the thermostat housing to see if it is above 120 C. Could be years before it happens again though!
240
@DW42 that's interesting, and I'd be interested to know what your temps are if you use your laser temp gun.
First thing I'll look at is the wiring I think, and then go from there.
Kaziganth
You should try to measure the resistance of the sensor from ECU's connector.
240
Thanks, that's useful.
Kaziganth
https://ufile.io/huerq there is the complete manual for LH 2.4 :)
240
OK I've just done a test (which I should have done ages ago), measuring the resistance between pin 13 of the ECU connector and Ground, as per the diagram @Kaziganth posted. The value I got was just over 2000 ohms, which seems about right (the car wasn't warm, so the temp should be roughly 20°C.)
Seems like the wiring is OK then. Should I now try a new ECU?
