jb1986;124815 wroteCongrats! That interior looks supple! How much of it is out of the S60?
The front seats, steering wheel, stalks (with no rear wiper button... that was an oversight!!), and cluster.
Vee_Que;124837 wroteI love the puppy in the background.
That's our Lexi. She's almost 3, still insane.
gavinh;124843 wroteVery nice, is it still a financially viable exercise out of interest? I do like those xc90. There a D4 with a sensor fault forsale locally here for around the 2.5k mark, which would have been nice if I didn't have to many cars as it is
That IS a cruel question Gav! Off the top of my head.. maybe..

- 3.5k for the car
- 1k for engine (yet to try recouping cost off the parts car though)
- about 2 – 2.5k of parts from FCP iPd
- say 500 in incidentals eg fluids

So, 7.5 ish, so pretty much on market value for a half decent one?
egads;124847 wroteIf that definitely is a manual that is worth it for sure.
There are no manuals AFAIK, so unless it has been converted..

- - -

I ran some compression figures before first start, all decent figures around 130, except cyl 5 which came in a touch low at more like 105. Putting that down to it being totally cold, as the previous figures were good.

Anyway, it started first time with no issues once plugs and coils went on.

Niggles?

- Looks like the radiator may be on the way out. Small leak on the drivers side and I don't think it's the top hose.
- Anti skid service message. I moved the clock spring over from the S60 with the stalks, and I guess it needs reseting properly. Failing that I'll chuck the old one back on.
- Rear wiper button missing on the stalk as noted above.. whoops!
- Steering wheel about 90° out.. alignment!
- Manual shift now doesn't work, must have the shifter cable installed incorrectly? Other gears fine.
- Need some better tyres so I can tell how bad the front shocks really are.

Otherwise, so far so good.

Great job and thread, at least now you know the car.
Managed to successfully retrofit the washer stalk with the rear window button. It was very intricate to get apart, and required faith in brute force.. but it paid off.

I’ve also moved over my old clock spring, so I’ll see if that helps with the anti skid msg. Might need code clearing first?

That IS a cruel question Gav! Off the top of my head.. maybe.

If you enjoyed doing all the work and you learned some in the process, then it was worth it, As well as getting a reliable car in the process.

I know with my V70XC I won't recupe the money I put in to her, somthing in the region of 3.5k with all the head work included. But again hopfully it will last another 15 years if we don't sell it.
You will need to reset and calibrate via Vida
yeah I’ve always said that @gavinh . I almost spent 9k on one before I bought this beaut, and that might’ve been no better. Unlikely, but possible!

Cheers @Philia_Bear - I’ll have to get my AC panel sorted so might as well get someone to do updates etc and fix skidz too. Dealer job? Remember you mentioned having updates done a while back?

Also note that if your wheel alignment is out 90° it wont calibrate the steering angle sensor so make sure you get that sorted first
timbo;124939 wroteAlso note that if your wheel alignment is out 90° it wont calibrate the steering angle sensor so make sure you get that sorted first
This +1

Also
I can do the calibration but not the software upgrades
I read I should clock it back where it came off. Should I set it “out” and let the sensor work it out?

It’s about 45deg out having replaced the module with original.

I need tyres anyway so alignment then the calibration etc.

Still has funny feeling from LH front wheel, like a tug or wobble when turning around something like a small roundabout. Noticed the ball joint flutes were all but gone in the hub.

I suppose it’s probably the dodgy strut
Hey @pastry . A big congrats! You must be glad that's over.
Thanks @bigal – the hard work is over and yeah I'm very happy about that.

Now I have to sort the niggles etc, but that can take as long as it takes, and I can have my weekends, evenings, and lunch breaks back.

Or just work through them, yay..... (Christmas rush, always the bloody same in this game)
Decided to order some front struts after all (retaining stock springs for now). It just don't feel quite right..

If that's not it then I'll have to replace the front drive shaft(s).

I got a quote for programming from the local dealer (Allan Mackay Moss Vale):

$120 for trans and engine updates
$90 for the steering calibration
~$100 to reprogram the dead climate panel

Not absolutely insanely out there but not exactly cheap.. @Philia_Bear didn't you get a decent deal recently updating you V8? Think it was in one of the Bruce's threads..
$90 for the steering calibration is kinda crazy it takes about 3 seconds and doesn't involve software my 72 yr old boss can do it in max 1minute as long as he doesnt get stuck on the password screen, or forget how to double click the mouse. Ask if they will just do it for free while they have the dice plugged in.
$120 is pretty fair for the ecu and trans software updates.
Whats the deal with the climate control?
Ok thanks for the tip on that.

When I did the fuel pump it was the first time I removed the battery. I finished the job and put the neg terminal back on with the key is pos II as instructed, but since then the climate panel does effectively nothing.

I've read this is somewhat common, and the CCM needs a reset/reprogram.
pastry;125227 wroteDecided to order some front struts after all (retaining stock springs for now). It just don't feel quite right..

If that's not it then I'll have to replace the front drive shaft(s).

I got a quote for programming from the local dealer (Allan Mackay Moss Vale):

$120 for trans and engine updates
$90 for the steering calibration
~$100 to reprogram the dead climate panel

Not absolutely insanely out there but not exactly cheap.. @Philia_Bear didn't you get a decent deal recently updating you V8? Think it was in one of the Bruce's threads..
$140ish for a total can bus reload via Penrith Volvo dealer
EDIT: updated video

- - - - - - -

So i've been using the car a bit to see what it wants to tell me..

So far –
- - - - - - -

Some difficulty with warm starts.
When I've driven for a bit and stopped it seems to have a bit of trouble getting going. Turns over and starts with a bit of a wheeze and moan about it. Then it idles low for 5 seconds, before running perfectly.

I has stalled starting twice.

I don't think it's the starter, it could be the battery although the way it starts well when cold seems to negate these.

It also has a sound a bit like the serpentine belt is slipping when starting up, but not all the time.

Some research says this may be a sensor issue.

Here's a video:



Coolant leak
This seem to be very very slow

Oil on RHS near cold side hose
I might jut need to tighten this, it could be from the old (presumably) oily intercooler.

Struts
These are 100% f@$%ed. New ones on the way!

Err... that's it I think!
So far so good otherwise.

It's very smooth compared to the old knackered motor. Happy with it apart from these quite little things.

Doesn't sound lively like mine to start.. just sounds like a flat battery. Pretty sure batteries will start a motor up a bit better after a rest (probably why it's better when cold).. Behaviour I've seen before anyway. I'm the master of running batteries low and ruining them.
Worth a try I guess Al! I'll have to check the battery spec, now I think about it I can't remember if I put the XC90's battery in my Saab..

Still, I'm concerned about the odd sounds after it starts.

Other research for others with similar symptoms suggest...

- O2 Sensor
- Fuel Pressure regulator
- Injector(s)
- MAF

I'll have to look at the battery, and then do some fuel pressure readings as a start.

- - -

BTW, I went to drop some oils off at the dump, the XC90 weighed in at 2220 kg with me driving and my eldest in the back.
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