Can anyone recommend a high-temp loom wrap? Some of wrap around the wiring to the coils has been destroyed in the oil and heat, so I need to patch it up.

"Tesa" tape sounds OK for in the bay, but maybe not under there (only has something like 120° rating).
15 days later
Bloody hell.
Unfortunately we have been advised by the supplier that the Eibach Pro-Kit (Part Number: E10-84-007-01-22) you have ordered has been discontinued, therefore I'm afraid we can no longer supply this item.
Bollocks. It's been marked as shipped for 2 weeks, and was meant to arrive any moment! Thanks, DemonTweaks..
Spewin.

What now?
dunno. Looks like the only spring options are stock.

It's mostly about replacing the worn out mount hardware, but obviously have to disassemble the entire strut to do that anyway – made sense to refresh the lot. Also not got much faith in the front struts anyway.

Ride in mine is a sometimes quite rough, with lots of nasty front end noises. Needs doing eventually!
Do USA forum for sale sections offer any springs etc that you want?
Worth a try.
worth a look i suppose, though a lot of private sellers are reluctant to post international in my experience.


Ok, so I actually ordered from the second listing, the 3rd seems to be same people with a different name (both in essentially the same location).

Why are they listing something they know they can't sell..? Nice to hold on to people's cash for a month eh?

First guy I don't trust as a result of these shenanigans. Thanks anyway @bigal.

Dodgy bloody poms!

(source: am a pom)
How about H&R. Put a set of their race springs in my quattro.. good! But not cheap.

They make a couple of sets for the xc90..

H&R Sport springs 29214-1 for Volvo XC90, all Motorisations - Lowering front/rear minus 40 mm

&

H&R Sport springs 29214-2 for Volvo XC90, all Motorisations - Lowering front/rear minus 40 mm

https://skn-tuning.de/shop/en/categorie.html?cat=1106016&next_page=2
H&R are good alternative, had them accross a few of my P80 cars. Would be very interesting in a 90 I reckon.
As a side note, guy I worked with had his Territory poly bushed, springs and dampers, all the bits, it is bumpy and touchy and twitchy but would be great at higher speed. Him being an old Pommy git Ford Escort rally racer loves it plus its kid carrier.
Thanks for the thoughts @Ex850R @bigal

Yeah I've def. considered the H&R's too, really would need some B6's or similar with those, though, so might become a bit more harsh than I want.

And like the Eibach's they're realistically nearly impossible to find. Think we missed the boat on this @bigal – all sold out by about 2012!

Choices are..

Lesjofors, which are cheap for a reason no doubt (lots of stories of them being so shite they kill the shocks)
OEM - which will do the job well, but expensive and have zero excite-factor
R springs - don't know the P/N or if they can be ordered
Don't bother – just update the mounts and see how the original gear goes

When I do a job like this I alway want to go "better than stock", so it's slightly annoying to replace with OEM kit..

My understanding is the R springs are a bit lower/stiffer, so I might try to locate a P/N or front spring code for those. They'd probably go well with the slightly more taught than stock Bilstein B4's.
The Pommy Git uses Cooper tyres ( ohh dear) , maybe they are hard as anything so they last yet make it more harsh.
Surely good rubber is the go?
@pastry you can have spring shops make a spring to your specs, not sure if it's pricey or not.
hmm @jamesinc but what would your best guess be old son? Pricey i'd think!

I could see about getting some out of a new-ish R-Design wrecker. Might be the best bet?
@pastry I imagine if you know what specs you need, it's actually not crazy expensive. Just call around

You may or may not also be aware that you can take your current springs and have a spring shop heat them up and re-set them to a lower free height. Just remember if you are looking for (e.g.) a 1" drop in ride height, you'd have to tell the spring shop how much weight the springs are supporting, as it will translate to more than 1" drop in the free height. I'd honestly, just call a spring shop and talk to them, I'm sure someone will be willing to explain costs and requirements.

Edit: also resetting them lower would reduce their load rating, so it wouldn't be suitable for more than a small drop. Still, if you had an original spring a shop could probably make a shorter and stiffer version without too much difficulty.

Edit 2: oh and of course you can try cutting springs, which increases spring rate but reduces load rating.
Great thread. I know it's moved onto suspension somewhat, but I've wondered about engine removal for the novice.

Just wondering whether anyone has tried lowering entire drivetrain out of FWD Volvos by lowering the entire subframe with everything attached? (Rest on a pallet, remove sub frame bolts, other bits etc etc then raising up the chassis. There is a YouTube video of it done like this and just seems relatively easy).

Seems like a logical way to do for a novice like me. Also seems a lot of the clearance issues on tighter engine bays such as a C30 would be reduced.

I've also contemplated the same when keeping the drivetrain from a wrecked RWD (rest on pallet, loosen all crossmembers and raise the chassis just the same).
@ToomanyVolvos lots of people do it that way. I've done it with a 240 once, but by gum you have to raise the front end pretty damn high to clear the engine.


The one on YouTube neatly lifts the car on a two post hoist. I guess that'd be the easiest.

Option two.... If she's a wreck cut the front end open and just drag the chassis rearward.
Thanks @jamesinc – got to be worth a go, then. I'd imagine a good shop would have no trouble working out the spec for some of these.

I'd like that ~30mm drop and willing to accept some stiffness increase for slightly less barge-like cornering. Certainly not looking to make it "sporty", just want something a bit better than OEM boat, and a touch lower!

@ToomanyVolvos dropping it on the subframe is actually the way it's "meant" to be done, but at home with no lift it's probably easier out the top.

To be honest they're quite easy to extract, provided you're willing to remove the radiator etc.

Workshop is a complete tip now.
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