You've probably read the other thread regarding a "screeching" sound emanating from under my 240's bonnet, well I am no closer to fixing that issue because I keep unravelling new issues every time I touch something! I took the water pump off as it's a possible suspect on the noise front plus I've had a replacement Hepu plus genuine seals and gasket ready to drop in sitting around for a while now. I've managed to get a 2nd hand coolant pipe back on which is still pretty rusty but is better than the original which was completely knackered at the end. Just discovered the ignition wiring loom at the firewall has "biodegraded" and have a new one one on the way from the Netherlands. In the meantime I'm doing the timing belt whilst I'm in there and the front engine seals (belt tensioner on its way in the post too).
I've not had to do this before on a vehicle as the thought of getting the timing out of whack has always put me off. A lot of the stuff online deals with the B230 which I know is basically identical but there are a few differences. I had things set up to TDC and removed the three bolts securing cam, intermediate and crank and am just in the process of replacing the seals. My top timing mark has shifted as has the crank, not sure if I turned things past TDC in the process of shifting the crankshaft bolt, I've got a genuine Volvo timing belt so have got the marks to reference the corresponding marks on the sprockets. I guess my question is: can I rotate the various marks on the sprockets to match the belt when I replace it as everywhere online I'm being told don't shift it off TDC, don't lose the position of the three sprockets etc etc? Any advice/tips/reassurance much appreciated....
just line up crank gear and cam gear marking as cam is located by a pin for pulley also the same with dissy drive pulley, these have dots on them and dissy pulley when lined up will be at three oclock. Do this and fit belt and spin a couple of times to make sure gears line up not belt markings
Thanks Deger, that's what I was guessing, I've just put the oil seals in, the cam and intermediate were pretty ok'ish to do, I used a smear of hi-temp RTV on the camshaft outside edge as there was evidence of that on the old one but I just used grease on the intermediate. The crankshaft seal was an absolute cow to get in straight, I'd made up a tool out of pvc pipe and the crank bolt to press it in but ended up having to resort to just working it around with my hands and then finessing it with the tool. I've slipped the new belt on to test for alignment and it was only the intermediate that had shifted, I'm so glad I bought an original Volvo belt with the relevant markings....
I don't know if i'd be using a sealant that hardens like rtv on a moving part, I would think you run the risk of tearing the seal as it turns... I usually use a little grease so I don't damage the seals as they go on but that's really all they need
Probably didn't explain myself very well, I meant the outer edge of the seal where it seats into the camshaft cover, the housing is split in 1/2 at that point to allow removal of the cover without disturbing the seal and may have a greater tendency to leak than where the seals press into a retaining plate....
Ah right, gotcha. It seems to be the generally accepted thing to use some rtv in that area, better safe than sorry I would think.
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