Ahh... Thanks :-)
SPT940's 960 wagon
20 days later
The Mk2 IRS (facelift 960) has 21mm rear sway bars for Nivomat sedan & estate. Alternatively if it's non-Nivomat then 18mm for sedan and 16mm for estate.
Your 960 estate should have Nivomats but if you're not sure give me your chassis code (2nd last row on the right side of the product plate) & I'll look it up for you.
Your 960 estate should have Nivomats but if you're not sure give me your chassis code (2nd last row on the right side of the product plate) & I'll look it up for you.
it does have Nivomats. Ultimately I'm going Coil Over. Firstly it needs re-bushing front & rear. Uprated front springs, Sway bar and strut inserts. That's after I get it straight, RWC.
6 days later
Oh if it's the Tasmanian wagon then it's technically a 96 not 95. 95 is first year of facelift but still on Motronic 1.8 fuel injection system (same as earlier 960) with only one oxygen sensor. 96 went to Motronic 4.4 with dual oxygen sensors. Quickest way to tell (apart from checking the VIN) is look around your handbrake, if you can find the OBD II connector then it's Motronic 4.4 so definitely 96-
Yep, then it's a 96 as the OBD II connector is there. I guess that even better than a 95?!?!?!
Definitely, according to Volvo's 1996 "New car feature" manual, Motronic 4.4 has 5 times the capacity and 10 times faster than the Motronic 1.8, with much improved starting characteristics & works with A/C system to eliminate compressor jerks.
The only thing I find slightly annoying about Motronic 4.4 is that you need a code reader to pull the diagnostic codes. On the Motronic 1.8 you just use the diagnostic unit in the engine bay & count the number of LED flashes, same as the LH-Jetronic 2.4 system.
The only thing I find slightly annoying about Motronic 4.4 is that you need a code reader to pull the diagnostic codes. On the Motronic 1.8 you just use the diagnostic unit in the engine bay & count the number of LED flashes, same as the LH-Jetronic 2.4 system.
A cheap eBay $30 delivered bright orange obd code reader does the job well , can clear codes and shows impending codes , it comes with a manual listing all the code meanings. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
That'd be usefull!
- Edited
Correct me if I'm wrong, but last time I looked into it a cheapo code reader only does generic codes, i.e. engine & perhaps transmission codes. It doesn't do ABS, airbag, cruise control or power seat codes which are Volvo specific. And you can't use the onboard diagnostic system in component testing mode or calibration mode (calibration mode is essential if you've replaced parts on power seat with memory feature), you could do all that on Motronic 1.8 or LH-Jetronic 2.4 by just using the diagnostic box in the engine bay.Ex850R;14022 wroteA cheap eBay $30 delivered bright orange obd code reader does the job well , can clear codes and shows impending codes
If there's a code reader that does all that for under $100 I'll buy one straight away.
@jonbot Can vida/dice talk to these?
For most things though, the OBD II readers do the job. Anything else requires literally the dealer license program...
Yes , correct Will and VQ , but with pre 1999 drive by wire x70 and probably x40 seat swap doesn't affect obd and yes the service light , SRS etc will need Vida/dice. I don't condone in any way but some have their own copies of this programming and an obd-usb connector on the laptop to do the dealer codes...... ...........
- Edited
Swapping the whole seat is fine but if you're just changing a component on power seat with memory feature (eg control unit or the potentiometer next to the seat motor) you need to run a seat calibration through OBD otherwise the power seat won't work. This applies to all power seat with memory feature even back in 1992 when they first appeared on Volvos.Ex850R;14198 wrotebut with pre 1999 drive by wire x70 and probably x40 seat swap doesn't affect obd
Ahh , i have never heard of the memory failure , probably because they just get a new seat these days as parts would be too expensive or just use it manually as ido , with a back injury one setting is no good , its a different setting many times in one trip short or long!
L
L
Volvrek are getting a 960 in....
@Tiga ?
Listening...
Motor for you?
It's actually a b280 powered 960
Poo...
Worked all weekend on 960. Planned to remove the Oil Trap.
Very little knowledge of the B634.
Pulled the Hot Air ducting, box which rans under engine in front of sump.
(A) Because its not required in this climate.
(B) To get a better view under the inlet manifold.
Pulled the fuel rail.
Dropped a couple nuts down beside the block. Very difficult to find in the labyrinth of aluminium waffle webbing! Frustrating.
Decided to put it all back together, when I noticed that a couple of the retaining washers on the injectors had missing pieces broken off. They were sitting in the manifold. One small piece had dropped into No.1 cylinder injector port.
Got the vacuum out and fitted a small clear tube to it. I just don't know if I sucked it out.
I really hope I got it. Put a flexible magnet tip down and picked up nothing.
Pulled the spark plug to make sure it wasn't in the cylinder. Vacuumed and magnet probed down the spark plug port too. Nothing in there.
I definitely sucked up up the other fractured pieces sitting in the injector port recesses.
So now I think I need to replace the injectors.
Anyone have a set of yellow injectors for 960 that they would like to sell? Any ideas where I might get a set at a reasonable price otherwise?
This has pissed me off no end!!!!
Questions.
Does the throttle body/manifold just sit on the rubber isolator on top of the engine mount?
Is the throttle body/manifold just held in place by the rubber socks attached to the inlet port manifold?
I also have to get the volvo hose clamps to replace the sacrificial clamps when I remove the manifold.
What a drama!
I'm still committed to getting it done though!
Very little knowledge of the B634.
Pulled the Hot Air ducting, box which rans under engine in front of sump.
(A) Because its not required in this climate.
(B) To get a better view under the inlet manifold.
Pulled the fuel rail.
Dropped a couple nuts down beside the block. Very difficult to find in the labyrinth of aluminium waffle webbing! Frustrating.
Decided to put it all back together, when I noticed that a couple of the retaining washers on the injectors had missing pieces broken off. They were sitting in the manifold. One small piece had dropped into No.1 cylinder injector port.
Got the vacuum out and fitted a small clear tube to it. I just don't know if I sucked it out.
I really hope I got it. Put a flexible magnet tip down and picked up nothing.
Pulled the spark plug to make sure it wasn't in the cylinder. Vacuumed and magnet probed down the spark plug port too. Nothing in there.
I definitely sucked up up the other fractured pieces sitting in the injector port recesses.
So now I think I need to replace the injectors.
Anyone have a set of yellow injectors for 960 that they would like to sell? Any ideas where I might get a set at a reasonable price otherwise?
This has pissed me off no end!!!!
Questions.
Does the throttle body/manifold just sit on the rubber isolator on top of the engine mount?
Is the throttle body/manifold just held in place by the rubber socks attached to the inlet port manifold?
I also have to get the volvo hose clamps to replace the sacrificial clamps when I remove the manifold.
What a drama!
I'm still committed to getting it done though!