boxerboy81
Net searching has found this.
The tube run goes FOREWARD from the pump, across behind the radiator, up under the right wheel fender, up the right "A" pillar, back on the right side of the headliner, and finally across the back to the jump to the tailgate. SOMWHERE along that run the hose is pinched. There's a joint near the top of the "A" pillar so you can check flow at that point.
Philia_Bear
IIRC on RHD cars the line was run on the pass side, but I could be wrong
boxerboy81
I pulled the right A pillar cover and the tubing was there. There's a connector about 3/4 of the way up. I disconnected the hose and did a couple of things.
1. Used the wiper to see if water would come out the tube. It did, indicating a blockage further back towards the tailgate.
2. I tried to aspirate the tubing. I managed to remove quite a bit of scale.
3. Then I put some tension on the tube, hoping to release a kink. Then I flushed the tube, hoping to see water down the rear window. No luck.
So now I need to get access to the tubing further back. How do I do that? I've looked at the plastic and tried to budge it with no luck. I suppose I need to remove the grabrail and there's a hook looking thing there too.
edit: I noticed the tubing from the A pillar connector back was different tubing, with longitudinal corrugations. Is that stock or might it have been replaced before I wonder?
boxerboy81
I've tried to do this to the nozzle at the back, to no avail.
you have to push the nozzle down towards the window to release the top clip, then back up again to release the bottom part of the clip.
You can then pull the nozzle out and twist the plastic pipe off.
Philia_Bear
boxerboy81;95752 wroteI've tried to do this to the nozzle at the back, to no avail.
you have to push the nozzle down towards the window to release the top clip, then back up again to release the bottom part of the clip.
You can then pull the nozzle out and twist the plastic pipe off.
More likely to break it
I always ended up breaking it off and replacing it as it was a $11 part and my time was worth far more
boxerboy81
Hmm, good thinking. I might give it one more try tomorrow. If it breaks, I'll get a new one. Berry's have 'em in stock d'ya think?
Philia_Bear
boxerboy81
I took it off and as predicted it broke in the process. However, it was the problem as water comes thru the hose.
Now, to chase the new bit and sort the tube out temporarily and cover the hole in the meantime.
Thanks for your guidance Philia_Bear. ?
boxerboy81
$21 from the dealer. Installed, didn't squirt :(
Dismantled it at the A pillar, disconnected the hose and tried to squirt with a syringe...initial short squirt then nuthin'. So, off came the nozzle again.
Volvo V50 rear washer nozzle removal: To remove the nozzle, I used a trowel underneath the rubber to push the clip from the rear. Protect the paint with a cloth. You need to push it firmly and also knock the nozzle forward. Once that is loosened it's a matter of wriggling it out.
I then tried flushing in a retrograde direction back to the A pillar. That worked. OK, so I presumed there was already a blockage in the new nozzle from something in the hoses.
I did manage to aspirate dirty grungy lining from the hose in either direction from the A pillar and continued to do that until it was clear. I fiddled with the new nozzle to unblock it and managed that.
All together and working now.
boxerboy81
Things learned.
You don't need to remove the wheel and wheel arch to feel the squirter motor or hoses for disconnection. You can reach down through the gap adjacent to the filler cap, your forearm will fit and reach the motor. It is out of sight but if you face your palm towards the wheel you'll be able to feel for two hoses adjacent to each other. If someone else is using the wiper you'll feel the motor work and if a hose is off you'll get a wet hand ;)
The rear hose goes to the rear washer/wiper.
The RHD V50 rear hose travels from the motor, behind the radiator (I couldn't see it though) and is fitted down the drivers right side of the cabin. A connector is in the hose and is accessible via the right A pillar.
The hoses get contaminated with loose black scaly stuff which could easily account for blockage in the nozzle.
Suggested order to investigate the failed rear washer.
1. Check for hose disconnection via reaching down to find the motor and hoses (as described above) If intact and the motor is making the appropriate noise..
2. Removed the A pillar cover, disconnect the hose there. Protect the interior from water then work the rear washer and see if water comes thru. If it does, ..
3. Remove the rear nozzle. Volvo V50 rear washer nozzle removal: To remove the nozzle, I used a trowel underneath the rubber to push the flexible clip from the rear. Protect the paint with a cloth. You need to push it firmly and also knock the nozzle forward. Once that is loosened it's a matter of wriggling it out.
4. Flush the hoses to clear the scale. I alternated between vacuum and flushing until the water was clear.
I hope that helps someone sort this reasonably minor but annoying problem easier next time.
sucksqueezebangblow
I wonder if adding vinegar to the washer bottle occasionally would stop the hoses/nozzle scaling up.
It works on our kettle
Philia_Bear
sucksqueezebangblow;96098 wroteI wonder if adding vinegar to the washer bottle occasionally would stop the hoses/nozzle scaling up.
It works on our kettle
Yes it should
Soap can help as well
boxerboy81
Nice idea re the vinegar. I usually use wiper detergent...unsure how that's different from any other and was thinking of just using specific carwash? The car is relatively new to us so no idea what's been used before.
How might the paint work react to vinegar I wonder? Any suggestion for the amount to add to the 6 litre reservoir?
boxerboy81
Found elsewhere..
I mix my screenwash 50/50 from concentrate (2.5 Ltr holts), to this I add 200mls of meths and a good squirt of GREEN fairy washing up liquid. I find this usually stops gunk forming in the pipes or mesh filter (in bottle usually).
The meths prevents freezing of the fluid these cold winter mornings and stops gunk forming in the pipes , nozzles and bottle and the GREEN fairy liquid also contains glycerine which helps stop the wiper rubbers from becoming hard and perish (they stay supple particularly the neoprene type blades)during the winter months.(If the temp is low then you also have to consider a sub zero chill factor acting on the wipers when in transit ).
I use the same mix in the summer as this helps lift squashed bugs (midges or green fly down here usually are the culprits) decorating the windscreen and being smeared like shellac across your view.
lasercowboy
Nonononononono...
Screenwash is actually carefully designed not to foam (uses specific wetting agents rather than 'soapy' surfactants). If you use ordinary dishsoap, car shampoo, etc. it'll foam at the nozzle, and you'll be in a whole heap of trouble. Same reason you can't put dishsoap in an automatic dishwasher. It'll also leave a nasty, sticky residue on the screen and car.
You can add alcohol as an antifoam to stop this happening (hence the metho) but it'll leach the plasticisers out of your tank, pipes, etc. and they'll go brittle.
My advice - use decent quality screen-wash. It's formulated to stop this stuff happening, and quality brands stop scale formation. Even better, mix it up with distilled water, and then you're definitely safe. If your problem is other types of particles (crap) in the system, no amount of soap or other additives is going to stop those from blocking your nozzles. Work out where the crud is getting in, and stop it - there should be a filter somewhere to avoid this problem.
sucksqueezebangblow
I've been using Wurth screen additive
boxerboy81
Thanks Rico. Yeah, I usually do use a dedicated screen washer detergent. It happens to be empty atm, so I'll get out and get some more. So, no alcohol, no domestic detergents, stick to dedicated stuff. I wasn't going to waste money on 200mls of metho everytime I filled the reservoir! ߘ
I seem to remember reading that there's a filter in the reservoir, but as I can't see down there it's hard to be sure. I can get my finger into the rubber seal for the motor but I couldn't feel any filter. Is there a fiche online where this could be looked at?
Here's a pic of the fluid, but the scale was initially multiple large slithers about 20mm long. I kept flushing and aspirating fluid until it became clear.
lasercowboy
Yeesh - looks like you're getting serious contamination - possibly microbial (algae). Scale will be white/yellow flakes, so it doesn't look like that. If your screenwash is too dilute (or has been topped up too many times with water) algae will grow really well, giving you exactly this problem.
A good screenwash should stop bacteria/algae growing, so should solve a multitude of problems. But yes, the consistency of what you're pulling out definitely indicates that was your problem!
boxerboy81
Another point of interest...I've been reading that window washer water has been implicated in Legionnaires disease. Using plain water is the problem as it allows bacteria to grow.
A dedicated window wash fluid is all you need to prevent the Legionnaires.
Looking up a few MSDS spec sheets for some washer fluids, the commonly used ingredients are ammonia and ethanol. Propane rated an occasional mention.
lasercowboy
Yep, ethanol at low(ish) loadings is the antifoam. Need to use a small enough amount (high enough dilution in water) that it doesn't become a problem as a solvent. Ammonia tends to help cleaning and help stop microbial growth. I'd expect some glycols and some soaps in there too, to make things slippery and detergenty? (of course, there is no incentive to put the full formulation on the MSDS - only chemicals with risk phrases at sufficient concentrations need to be listed, and the company obv wants to keep their actual formulation under wraps...)
