jlfents
No luck today.
The ignition is all as it should be; correct plug wire ordering and cap on the right way. I'm pretty sure whatever water that might have been in there is gone, and I used compressed air to be sure. Ign module looks good.
Same story regarding turning over. It backfires almost instantly and will keep doing that. I have double checked the timing belt and it all lines up.
Water pump seal seems to be failing too. I've noticed coolant on front of engine.
It just needed to run for six months problem free...
carnut222
Have you pulled the plugs to have a look at them? Did you pull the distributor rotor to have a look, and double confirm it lines up with cyl 1 mark on distributor body when it should? Long shot I have seen rotors go on the wrong way too. Hope you find something but the backfiring really does sound like a cap/rotor/plug wire issue. Frustrating to say the least. Good luck!
jlfents
I have checked all of that lots of times due to me second guessing myself. And yes I agree it has to be ignition related, I just have no clue what. I might just have to take it to the mechanic.
carnut222
OK how about this...check to make sure camshaft is turning? Could it be that either the timing belt cam or crank sprocket key sheared? Maybe the cam timing is way off somehow? Might be able to rotate crank with oil cap off and see if cam lobes point the correct orientation when cylinder 1 is at TDC? I know you checked timing marks on belt and pulleys but if pulley slipped on cam or crank that's what I'm talking about. Long shot but???? What else could it be? Bugger!
pauljloz
Do you have spark at the plugs?
Backfire indicates timing (firing order) related.
Like @carnut222 I too spent a long time trying to diagnose backfiring - it was incorrect cap or lead order (cant recall which).
Water damage unlikely if the air filter is intact. Compression test will rule in or out.
Did the backfire (flames under car) come out of the exhaust or blow off the intake ducting or even some of the larger k-jet vacuum hoses? Excess air will also cause a no start.
Essbos
Might be worth checking the little locator dowel on the Cam gear to make sure it's still straight and true. That could cause timing issues even of everything else lines up.
Maybe a compression check to rule out a stuck or damaged valve also.
jlfents
That's smart! I just went to turn crank now by hand and cam shaft is turning. Could be though that there is not enough rotational force to break friction so will pull pump fuses and try starter motor on tuesday, or maybe just check shaft orientation like you said. Have not looked to see if piston is at tdc when timing indicates it should be.
I am 100% sure ignition order is correct as I have checked what 4 times today. Although take this with a grain of salt as I am a learning home mechanic and not qualified in this at all.
I was thinking stuck/damaged valves today but never investigated. It is quite easy to rotate crank by hand (wrench), but I can hear compression. Will add compression check to the list.
Thanks guys, long shots are I all have!
carnut222
I can't take credit for this pic but please check again...and confirm rotor points to #1 plug wire when cam belt pulley marks are aligned.
tbro
If it will get you out of the shit I have a nearly complete 230 in the shop (@ Bribie) with dissy etc you can have.
Terry
Slowbrick
If you car is backfiring loudly then you have water in something ignition related. Grab yourself a can of electrical contact cleaner and start spraying on the contacts things. Pull your plug wires and confirm they arent hiding water between the boots and the contacts. Pull your plugs while you are there and unscrew the resistors to make sure water isnt hiding in those either.
Take off your dizzy cap, take off the rotor and have a look under that little plastic plate. There might be water hiding in the hall effect assembly. Check inside the cap and look closely in the little spring loaded button. Check if for water ingress.
Pull the coil wire and check for water hiding deep at the bottom of the connector. Confirm the + and - spade connectors are dry.
Ive had a 240 turbo do what you are describing and it was after i pressure washed the engine bay. Ended up being water stuck inside the plug boots. Much like you it would crank for a bit and then do a very loud backfire without really starting.
Good luck!
Raebird
@jlfents if you would like a fresh set of eyes to look at it, I’m happy to come over and help diagnose the problem if you like?
jlfents
Had another quick go today. All timing is spot on. Piston is at TDC when suppose to be and cam shaft at correct orientation.
Cam gear. Crank and auxiliary gear photos are a pia, but YES both are on point.
Rotor
Spark plug wires
Took a video of start up so you guys can see what I'm dealing with. However this time it does something completely new firing back through intake instead of going through exhaust.
I think that will be the last time I attempt to start it. I don't want to blow myself or the car up and cause further damage...
jamesinc
That sort of backfiring can happen when you have a really crappy mixture and/or poor spark. Your engine could conceivably just be flooded from all the cranking. You can pull a plug and look at it/in the bore to see if it's wet. If it is the laziest option is just to pull the plugs and leave it to sit for a day.
jlfents
@Slowbrick I just saw your message now. I just went and re-checked everything for moisture yet again... Everything was as usual except no.1 plug wire contact has coolant on it inside plug on distri. side. Now I'm telling you that wasn't there this morning before the start as above, and definitely wasn't there when me and Dad looked numerous times on the weekend. I feel like an idiot here, wtf going on?
@Raebird hold that thought.
@tbro thanks for your generosity, I will keep that in mind
jlfents
I will do that. I will pull everything apart clean it all wipe dry leave for a day or two and try one more time.
jlfents
Slowbrick
jlfents;131122 wrote@Slowbrick I just saw your message now. I just went and re-checked everything for moisture yet again... Everything was as usual except no.1 plug wire contact has coolant on it inside plug on distri. side. Now I'm telling you that wasn't there this morning before the start as above, and definitely wasn't there when me and Dad looked numerous times on the weekend. I feel like an idiot here, wtf going on?
Yep that will do it! Sometimes it can condense and form those larger droplets that you are seeing. Clean it out, pull all the plugs and crank it to get rid of excess fuel in the cylinders. Put all the plugs back in and have another crack. Bet it runs like a dream.
jlfents
I got a little frustrated before. I will try cleaning and physically drying/airing out.
So the green coloured moisture isn't necessarily coolant, it's water undergone electrolysis? There seems to be a lot of water for droplets that I couldn't see before.
How is there the occasional ignition only when exhaust or intake valve is open?
In the midst of the rain after first cutting out how come I could get it to run but like a bag of shit? And then after the OG backfire it is acting as it is now. Has water just settled and am I looking to deeply into the backfire?
I am not refusing what your are saying, just trying to understand what is happening theoretically...
jamesinc
jlfents;131138 wroteHow is there the occasional ignition only when exhaust or intake valve is open?
*shrug* just know that it happens. The answer is probably complicated, maybe it starts burning but the mixture is bad until the inlet valve starts adding more air and it kicks off properly.
jlfents
Hmm ok
I will report back in a few days.
Ta guys
