Suppose I'm due for an update:
Ended up getting an exhaust shop to fix up the muffler problem as cheap as possible. They just welded a pipe to bridge the gap. [He was impressed with my effort too].
I finally tried on an earlier front end I bought ages ago. I love it, though after a week of having different coloured fenders I was over the look and the amount of attention I got - with double takes everywhere I went.
There will be a fair amount of work involved getting those fenders up to scratch. They're not bad, but a bit of surface rust in places and a lot of bubbly paint - not sure whats under it as it looks to be a respray. One fender has holes for the chrome arch trim and will need to be welded up. I'm not sure if I want to just run with the fenders as they are and get that 'look' out of my system, wait until I find more suitable fenders to fix up and respray, or actually fix the ones I have. As I don't have a welder I would have to outsource some of the work, and possibly get them media blasted. Either way I will have to wait until I buy new headlight inserts and fix up the wiring.
Driver's window regulator broke. I'm not sure what the part is called but it failed and I bodgied it up with a nut and bolt for the time being. Can only wind the window down 1/3 of the way before it bottoms out on the bolt, not to mention the gearing is getting chewed up because it's bodgey. Will have to replace the assembly before summer comes.
I removed the 'GLE' gauges as the PO bodgied the wiring in, I am yet to reinstall everything.
Regarding the turbo build, I won't complete at this time as I had hoped. I've simply run out of budget etc etc.
But thanks to a few of you selling your parts I am fairly close. I am guessing I will be ready on the Christmas break to swap motors, but no promises. I will explain the most notable points:
I decided against rebuilding the block and will just run as is to save money. Will plan to find another block in the future to do up. Mark did say it was a good runner, and everything looks good inside so I'm not to concerned with it's integrity. More or less cleaned it up, repainted it and new seals /gaskets etc. Something of note - I removed the tube that drains oil caught by the PCV breather box to the sump. It was rock hard and would crum in my hand, with broken off pieces stuck in the oil pump pickup strainer. I researched on turbobricks and found stealthfti never bothers to install them, with his reason being it doesn't really have much effect on its job (or something rather). I basically can't be bothered to order a new one. Will just have to monitor the oil level and catch can and if it sucks up too much oil I will have no choice but to fix it up in situ. I used RTV as a substitute seal for the PCV box. 240 auxiliary shaft swapped. Yoshifab turbo oil return adapter installed.
The head is a K-Jet 405 cleaned and resurfaced, I lapped it with turbo exhaust valves swapped in. It does have big coolant passages, but I believe it SHOULD be OK with standard boost. A cam. B21 valve cover with the breather port. Standard K-jet intake manifold but I had the auxiliary air valve port plugged just to simplify things - all it does is let some air bypass the throttle body during start and warm up, nothing my right foot can't modulate. If I decide to reinstall the AAV I can use ports on the throttle body, which is how the B21 turbo's are setup. I am using a throttle body from a turbo EFI car so there is room and a lip for the intercooler piping to clamp onto. I removed the TPS and plugged that hole.
Turbo wise - I haven't found a suitable turbo to stick on the (flat flanged) 90+ manifold - my criteria being a T3 and 5 bolt turbine/wastegate housing. In the meantime I have acquired a standard 42/48 Volvo T3 turbo and have a pre 90 manifold lined up until I get a suitable turbo for the 90+. Will need to rebuild and balance it.
I bought and received new K-jet fuel line from 'Unobtainium Supplies'. It is a rare product to find, and this guy was great. If anyone is looking for K-jet fuel lines he is your man. He specialises in Ferrari stuff. Anyway, he sells polyamide with the rubber outer 'protection' tube in k-Jet sizes, S/S braided polyamide in K-Jet sizes, and 'bare' polyamide line with no outer tube. The rubber and S/S is quite expensive at $14 and $16/meter (USD) so I opted for the 'bare' polyamide line for the time being @ $4/meter USD iirc. Also bought a tool for assembling the fittings, though it doesn't seem to be very effective - saying that I haven't given it a good try yet only mucked around with it. Check out the complimentary pen!
AEM ''x-series' AFR gauge. Supposedly the fastest responding AFR gauge on the market. I just need it to be somewhat accurate as I will be tuning with it.
Bought and received a new Dave Barton wiring harness. I feel I must say this was the best online buying experience I've ever had. Instead of buying a B21ET harness, I got a B23E harness meant for Australia so it will be compatible with the car.
Bought an Ebay fuel pressure test kit for $80, stating it is compatible with K-Jet. Quality seems ok, but won't know until I hook it up.
I plan to replace gaskets for the M46. I have the kit now just need to actually make a move on it.
Have a flat flywheel and 9" clutch on order.
There are a few things I still need to figure out or buy:
Fan shroud - I want to use the stock clutch fan though there are no compatible shroud's in Australia. I think I will attempt to cut the N/A shroud, it looks like it will work.
Injectors - I'm not sure on the condition of the injectors I got with the B21ET gear. So have been looking at possible alternatives. According to the green books, late model B230E injectors have the exact same specifications (opening pressure). That looks to be the best option so far.
Ignition - I was planning to use the stock B21ET distributor until I could afford a more suitable system, though after having a good look inside it is not in good condition. At this point I will have to buy a new system and the 123 distributor's look to be the best in my situation.
