- Edited
Your calculation is the same for a 100w globe jay for amperage.... I thought leds are meant to be lower wattage for more output?
164 alternator upgrade options
Well you do need to get into all that to really understand what and how led work.
LED's are bright, ultra bright even in the various colors and color temps.
Though, brightness (lumens) isn't the issue here. LUX is, the greater the LUX value the greater the light penetration.
I have various led gloves at home and mani in similar wattage. Though a couple have a greater ability to penetrate the darkness. (Light travels further) that's the key trick to led.
LED's are bright, ultra bright even in the various colors and color temps.
Though, brightness (lumens) isn't the issue here. LUX is, the greater the LUX value the greater the light penetration.
I have various led gloves at home and mani in similar wattage. Though a couple have a greater ability to penetrate the darkness. (Light travels further) that's the key trick to led.
..... Ok. So I have led globes in my house, the same lux or brighter than the previous globes that were just normal filament. The led globe is 10w usage to compare with a 70w filament globe.
So the point is, you may have your maths and info wrong as the trucklite adr legal led headlights advertise to use less current. You are saying it uses More.
So the point is, you may have your maths and info wrong as the trucklite adr legal led headlights advertise to use less current. You are saying it uses More.
Think your miss understanding/reading Alex.
Wattage is the current draw on the electrical system no matter the item.
Lumens is how you do your calculations. Because that is the brightness level. And can not be changed between output devices.
A 60w halogen will have the same amperage draw as a 60w led/SMD light.
However the lumens will be different. (Generally higher with the led/SMD)
This is why as you mentioned and we all see at the supermarket 6w led units = to 40w halogen.
10w = 60w, 18w = 100w etc.
You then have differences with the led units (a discussion we have had in the other group chats)
One 60w led headlight unit might have a higher LUX rating than another 60w led light unit.
Like anything the more you look the more complex it can become
Wattage is the current draw on the electrical system no matter the item.
Lumens is how you do your calculations. Because that is the brightness level. And can not be changed between output devices.
A 60w halogen will have the same amperage draw as a 60w led/SMD light.
However the lumens will be different. (Generally higher with the led/SMD)
This is why as you mentioned and we all see at the supermarket 6w led units = to 40w halogen.
10w = 60w, 18w = 100w etc.
You then have differences with the led units (a discussion we have had in the other group chats)
One 60w led headlight unit might have a higher LUX rating than another 60w led light unit.
Like anything the more you look the more complex it can become
800lm = 60w incandescent, 8-12w led.
1600lm = 100w incandescent, 16-20w led
1600lm = 100w incandescent, 16-20w led
What I understand from this is, the led headlights are brighter, throw further but they alsoare the same wattage as a normal globe, not less like house lights are.
- Edited
Led does not throw further. For the equivalent output.
-with out assistance from a projector lense or a reflector designed specifically for the led.
I.E: J.w speaker, truck lite etc.
The new retrofit kits like Alex has used and tri. Are significantly better than previous generations.
The significance is still in the lens.
-with out assistance from a projector lense or a reflector designed specifically for the led.
I.E: J.w speaker, truck lite etc.
The new retrofit kits like Alex has used and tri. Are significantly better than previous generations.
The significance is still in the lens.
3 years later
3 years later i finally get around to doing this...
ended up picking up a holden 80amp alternator from the wreckers. conversion looked pretty simple but on the 164 alternator the screws holding the rotor to the front housing are in from the back making it impossible to detach it from the front housing. as opposed to the later style that has 4 screws holding the housing to the rotor and screwed in from the front.
@Angus242164 did you encounter this problem when you did your conversion?
I just fitted a P80 alternator, a few mods to the housing and a new adjuster and it works a treat.
I didn't encounter that issue with what I did, everything was a direct fit (between a 240 alternator and a VN alternator), I would say that the 164 alternator must be from an earlier generation of Bosch alternators.
I have a modded alternator which I think came from a 140. Looks like a Commodore main body.
See:
dmc "The clean out continues, more added and more photos\r\n\r\nCleaning up workshop and have some parts left over.\r\nAll parts available for pickup in Melbourne or some can be posted. 1kg Aus Post bags are $13.\r\n\r\n##140##\r\n\r\nLHD (imported from USA) 1974 140 brake booster mount. This was procured to relocate the brake booster to where it really should be (directly in front of the brake pedal) and free up space on the intake side for a B230 in a 140.\r\nAlso the adjustable rod to connect the pedal to the booster. \r\nThere are two of them, $150 each. Can post via post bags.\r\n\r\n[img]https:\/\/ozvolvo.org\/uploads\/editor\/v2\/wnfi52mx5q48.jpg[\/img]\r\n\r\n\r\nYoshifab engine mounts to put a B230 into a 140.\r\nNew, unused. $100 Can post.\r\n\r\n[img]https:\/\/ozvolvo.org\/uploads\/editor\/a3\/7q4lni7u5oax.jpg[\/img]\r\n\r\n\r\nModified (not by me) alternator for 140\/B20\r\nThe part number of the main body is a commodore so almost certainly an 85 Amp alternator. Pick up only, too heavy to post.\r\n\r\n[img]https:\/\/ozvolvo.org\/uploads\/editor\/ia\/2wdc66896ig8.jpg[\/img]\r\n[img]https:\/\/ozvolvo.org\/uploads\/editor\/uh\/9huemirecyyr.jpg[\/img]\r\n[img]https:\/\/ozvolvo.org\/uploads\/editor\/0c\/u9e0qtmk2wqd.jpg[\/img]\r\n\r\n\r\nTwo front callipers from a 140.\r\nThey worked on the car so assume they are still fine. Pads look good too! $30\r\n\r\n[img]https:\/\/ozvolvo.org\/uploads\/editor\/35\/c4p6nzdv479p.jpg[\/img]\r\n\r\n\r\nM40 gearbox. Needs bearings though shifted fine. $100 pick up only.\r\n\r\n[img]https:\/\/ozvolvo.org\/uploads\/editor\/ct\/0ab0e01bw3oz.jpg[\/img]\r\n\r\n\r\n142 rear door trims (where the door would be if they were doors). PIck up only.\r\n$40\r\n\r\n[img]https:\/\/ozvolvo.org\/uploads\/editor\/5y\/fll1kngugg49.jpg[\/img]\r\n[img]https:\/\/ozvolvo.org\/uploads\/editor\/76\/odjuan5jvxkl.jpg[\/img]\r\n\r\n\r\n142 rear windows, seals and the lock mechanisms. Pick up only.\r\n$100\r\n\r\n[img]https:\/\/ozvolvo.org\/uploads\/editor\/qa\/psslxqd5cmhp.jpg[\/img]\r\n\r\n\r\n142s engine pipe, the really long one without the centre muffler. $10 pick up only.\r\n\r\n[img]https:\/\/ozvolvo.org\/uploads\/editor\/js\/44zugwgyjr70.jpg[\/img]\r\n\r\n\r\n3 wheels only, one sold.\r\n140 15\" wheels. Rims straight, tyres very old - one is a Michelin XZX! Probably fit 160 too. $40 for the three, pickup only.\r\n\r\n[url=https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/sLlsnmU.jpg][img]https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/sLlsnmUh.jpg[\/img][\/url]\r\n\r\n\r\n##240##\r\n\r\nManual pedal box with clutch master cylinder.\r\n\r\n[img]https:\/\/ozvolvo.org\/uploads\/editor\/pc\/6zt1mk1loddz.jpg[\/img]\r\n\r\n\r\n1991 240 high mount radio and amplifier (the amplifier is behind the lower part of the console). Has a code. Can post. $100 plus postage.\r\n\r\n[url=https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/3kTR9Tp.jpg][img]https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/3kTR9Tph.jpg[\/img][\/url]\r\n[url=https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/mugWt2K.jpg][img]https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/mugWt2Kh.jpg[\/img][\/url]\r\n[url=https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/7i27IjE.jpg][img]https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/7i27IjEh.jpg[\/img][\/url]\r\n[url=https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/gtZWQ9W.jpg][img]https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/gtZWQ9Wh.jpg[\/img][\/url]\r\n\r\n\r\n240 Beige door trims and handles etc. Removed from my car when electric windows went in.\r\n$100 the set\r\n\r\n[url=https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/K8cMmxa.jpg][img]https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/K8cMmxah.jpg[\/img][\/url]\r\n[url=https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/82JMQYj.jpg][img]https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/82JMQYjh.jpg[\/img][\/url]\r\n\r\n\r\n##740##\r\n\r\nLights from a 740 wagon. Front in good shape, rears are one very good and one Ok.\r\n\r\n[img]https:\/\/ozvolvo.org\/uploads\/editor\/4r\/gxkunjnjlopd.jpg[\/img]\r\n\r\n\r\nBrake set from a 90 model with ABS. Came off a running car, it was driven into the workshop (to become an engine donor). They all worked fine and were serviced by Voldat for many years.\r\n\r\n4 rotors (22.0mm and 9.4mm), 4 callipers, 4 flexible hoses, with pads, and bolts. Also ABS sensors for front two wheel hubs included.\r\n$150\r\n\r\n[img]https:\/\/ozvolvo.org\/uploads\/editor\/xq\/gg73ce1sxgra.jpg[\/img]\r\n\r\n\r\n740 turbo transmission oil cooler. I assume this will work on any 740 auto. Would probably fit a 240 auto without much effort too. $20 pick up only due to hard lines.\r\n\r\n[url=https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/JrsZGfT.jpg][img]https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/JrsZGfTh.jpg[\/img][\/url]\r\n\r\n\r\n740 intercooler. $10 pickup only.\r\n[url=https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/7ogjcFw.jpg][img]https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/7ogjcFwh.jpg[\/img][\/url]\r\n\r\n"
Located in Melbourne.
what amperage is it?
It is in a box somewhere. From the ad:
"The part number of the main body is a commodore so almost certainly an 85 Amp alternator. Pick up only, too heavy to post."
The sticker on it looks like 85 Amp too.
$50.
where abouts are you located ?
- Edited
wondering how to wire up the holden alternator as its slightly different to the old 55a one
would really appreciate any insight
pic one is the new alternator with two wires coming out of the regualtor one with a spade connector on it. i assumed this was to connect to the excite wire which is connected at D+ on the old regualtor. battery wire obviously goes to B+.
but the volt meter shows the battery isnt charging
My memory is hazy as it's been many years, but the two pins of the regulator plug should be marked with a letter each.
I think they are:
L - light - connect to the warning light wire to the cluster.
S - sense - connect to the positive battery terminal.
This is run to the battery directly on the OE vehicles with this regulator, (rather than to a nearby power feed), as it's used by the regulator to determine the actual voltage at the battery, to control charging more accurately than earlier alternators.
Yes you're spot on. Managed to work that out from a commodore forum
You did well to figure out any useful information from a Commodore forum! They don't have a great signal to noise ratio.
Haha it was more trial and error. Weird thing I've noticed is connecting the sense wire creates a high pitched frequency. Not sure what that means
13 days later
S wire should be an ignition source if its connected to battery it will drain your battery if it sits for any length of time. If its a noise through the spreakers its earthing issue that why that little black box is on the back of the Alt is for radio noise supressor. But if it's a hum out if the alternator when S wire is hooked up more than likely blown diodes on the rectifer plate inside the alt, its pretty common on bosch holden alternators, Altho there cheap and readily available every where,