Hi everyone,

Figure I'll try my luck, is anyone selling a solid b20 engine and auto box?

I'm in ACT but will to pay shipping for a good engine.

Thanks,
Carl
Getting pretty thin on the ground. Maybe find rough car that can be a donor? Or you can upright mount a b23/b230
The B23 is my other option, just figured I'd see what's available before I dive into that.

Looking for a Kjet version
Sorry, I mean which version of b 20 and bw35? I also have a machined engine that could be assembled, and a few said to be recently reco bw35. Need to raise funds to cover a recent purchase, so considering selling some spares.
Is your current kjet head OK? Apart from that you should be able to pick up any b20
My '69 142s has a (non original) B20A in it, which I plan to remove and replace with a '69 B20B with E head fitted to it (both of which I have), so the B20A will be surplus to my needs.

It was last started 10 years ago, ran well at that time, didn't blow any smoke or make any bad noises. I don't know if it's a 6 bolt or 8 bolt crank.

It wouldn't be a big deal for me to remove it, degrease it and strap it down to a pallet if you organise a courier from your end.
1971_144GL;88431 wroteSorry, I mean which version of b 20 and bw35? I also have a machined engine that could be assembled, and a few said to be recently reco bw35. Need to raise funds to cover a recent purchase, so considering selling some spares.
You'll have to forgive me I'm new to Volvos, I believe my engine is the B20f, and am not sure what the box is.
egads;88435 wroteIs your current kjet head OK? Apart from that you should be able to pick up any b20
The head seems to be fine, have a bottom end knock, so a good block would probably do the trick
Angus242164;88436 wroteMy '69 142s has a (non original) B20A in it, which I plan to remove and replace with a '69 B20B with E head fitted to it (both of which I have), so the B20A will be surplus to my needs.

It was last started 10 years ago, ran well at that time, didn't blow any smoke or make any bad noises. I don't know if it's a 6 bolt or 8 bolt crank.

It wouldn't be a big deal for me to remove it, degrease it and strap it down to a pallet if you organise a courier from your end.
I could definitely be interested in that offer Angus if I can't find anything locally I'll pm you to discuss price ect.
As far as I know I hoarded all the local ones and have sold them on so probably none more local/easy/known than Angus's
nerfherder;88468 wrote
You'll have to forgive me I'm new to Volvos, I believe my engine is the B20f, and am not sure what the box is.
B20A - single carb (Stromberg CD 175 or SU HS6 or SU HIF 6), low compression.

B20B - twin carb (Stromberg CD 175 or SU HS6 or SU HIF 6), high compression.

B20E - D Jet (up to 73) or K-Jet (1974 onward) Bosch fuel injection, high compression.

B20F - D Jet (up to 73) or K-Jet (1974 onward) Bosch fuel injection, low compression - usually on USA cars.

M40 transmission = 4 speed Volvo-made manual
M41 = 4 speed Volvo gearbox + Laycock overdrive (rare on Australian 140s)

BW35 = antique, weakling power-zapping heat producer pretending to be a 3 speed automatic
That is the most accurate description of a BW35 I've ever seen.
I have a b20 that will be ready to assemble that would suit the b20f head, once the f head gets work done too. But i ended up with another balanced b20 so I just have the block sitting around, waiting to be used.. 8 bolt crank, all bearings etc available.
I like my bog warmer 35. Sentimental reasons. Shifts beautifully.
bigal;88619 wroteI like my bog warmer 35. Sentimental reasons. Shifts beautifully.
Well, @Vee_Que and I had a brief chat over the weekend about doing locally-made auto trans adapter plates. He was very keen to do one to fit an AW30-40 behind a Volvo B30 straight 6, and I OTOH wanted one to put an AW71 behind a B20 for less than a billion euros. What I forgot to tell him though was I have a relative who owns a business that has a full-on mega-buck machine, which takes CAD drawings at one end and can deliver water-cut alloy plates at the other.

If the plan comes together, would you be interested in one of the latter for the 145?
I can be added to the interested list. I am in the Netherlands at present, but happy to chat b20 on my return. I have all of the above when it comes to the list of engine transmission versions except for the f.
Duly noted. Enjoy the tulips and maybe see Scandcar over at Moergestel.
1971_144GL;88625 wrote I have all of the above when it comes to the list of engine transmission versions except for the f.
Heh, just realised I do have 1 example of each engine! (The B20F with the M41 is in my ex-USA1800E).
bgpzfm142;88624 wrote
bigal;88619 wroteI like my bog warmer 35. Sentimental reasons. Shifts beautifully.
Well, @Vee_Que and I had a brief chat over the weekend about doing locally-made auto trans adapter plates. He was very keen to do one to fit an AW30-40 behind a Volvo B30 straight 6, and I OTOH wanted one to put an AW71 behind a B20 for less than a billion euros. What I forgot to tell him though was I have a relative who owns a business that has a full-on mega-buck machine, which takes CAD drawings at one end and can deliver water-cut alloy plates at the other.

If the plan comes together, would you be interested in one of the latter for the 145?
Costs imo will be similar due to condition of boxes, 71s are all worn out at this point vs the 30-40...

Handy to know about the cad though.
nerfherder;88468 wrote
The head seems to be fine, have a bottom end knock, so a good block would probably do the trick

....

It was last started 10 years ago, ran well at that time, didn't blow any smoke or make any bad noises. I don't know if it's a 6 bolt or 8 bolt crank.
Couple of notes -

A bottom end knock could be a dodgy lifter, or could be more serious. If it's a dodgy lifter, you'll need a new cam (and new set of lifters too).

The six bolt crank is found in the engines made up until 1973. The 8-bolt crank is found in 1974 engines onward, and continued through to the B21. The 8-bolt crank engine uses the same bearing set as as the later B21, while the earlier 6 bolt crank engines use a different main and big end bearing set.

... oh, wait on, you've got that white 1974 144, right? If so, that makes things easy: Yours is an 8 bolt crank engine, with a K-Jet B20E. It should have a K cam (which is different to an OHC K cam!) or possibly a D cam. The 3 speed heat production unit (aka BW35 auto) should be the version with the grey plate, type 321. Your tailshaft should have type 1310 flanges at both end (useful to know when you need uni joints) and the bigger rubber donut for the centre support bearing.

Extracting an engine from a 140 isn't difficult; it might be worth doing this and discovering the source of the knock. B20s are very robust and easy engines to work on, and they're hard to get wrong as long as one follows Volvo's very basic instructions.
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