timbo
That will look and sound fkn amazing!!!
AshDVS
Fantastic! That'll be really neat.
Giles
Cheers guys. The engine bay should resemble the top in the pictures one once done. is as it stands now mine is the bottom one. This is a later model W123
with an a M110, so it should sound similar. I've had some 270/280 cams installed so it should easy reach 7000rpm.
If you think I'm hijacking the thread, let me know.
Oppolock
Thats the 280C Road/Rally Car youve been building for a while isnt it Giles?
I haven't caught up on the build in OzBenz for a few months now.
Oppolock
BTW Love that EFI setup!
Giles
Oppolock;84562 wroteThats the 280C Road/Rally Car youve been building for a while isnt it Giles?
I haven't caught up on the build in OzBenz for a few months now.
5 year rebuild anniversary coming up in December. This is how she was when I collect her. I haven't posted much of the recents mods on Ozbenz lately about it, it seems to ruffle their tweeds. They like it factory, I like my way.
Ex850R
If they only like them factory then it's only a picture gallery isn't it?
What's the point?
Some people are too square , we like odd ones!
Oppolock
Its the same old story when people do stuff thats not "Popular", People get precious.
If its safe and well done then its all good as far as im concerned.
Angus242164
If you do stuff that's too popular the nerds will take issue with it.
If you do stuff that's not popular enough the mainstream will have a problem with it.
There is a middle ground somewhere that impresses a lot of people.
Or you can just do whatever whatever you want.
lasercowboy
Right on! The only person who has to be happy with it at the end of the day is you. I get that some people like to impress others, and that's part of what we do (wanting support/recognition/validation) but chances are, if you like it, someone else will too!
bigal
I've been experimenting with killing the rust on a Merc panel this weekend. I bought a bottle of Evaporust (bloody hell that's expensive!) and it's doing bugger all. *sigh*. I've been soaking an edge of a panel in a container for 24hours now and hasn't done much. Even if it does work I refuse to pay $1000's filling up a bath full to soak some panels. I bought a little pond pump to trickle the evaporust over the panel and that's useless too.
I need to find a liquid solution that'll eat this surface rust and leave the paint alone.
I've been watching lots of vids on soaking panels in a molassis and water mix. This looks amazing but I fear it might work too well and strip the paint so I don't want to go there just yet.
I've tried leaving a small edge of a panel in a container of vinegar for a couple of days.. That did nothing.
About to go outside and rub in a lemon and see what happens.
Not having any luck finding any wheels either.
Ideas anyone?
I think I might just park this project for a month or so as my Volvo's are demanding attention.
egads (she/her)
@zzdhalla (David) is a metal conservation guru and Volvo fiend who spends at least some of his time in Tassie. Might have some tips and maybe be able to lend a hand.
lasercowboy
Chemically speaking, vinegar (acetic acid) should accelerate rust if it does anything. Rust occurs when the surface of the iron oxidises, and in general, acids act as/create oxidants.
A good call is something based on phosphoric acid. This is because the phosphoric acid induces the formation of very hard, passivating and insoluble iron phosphate on the surface of the metal. The phosphate is also a kind of dark grey/black colour which is rather appealing. No matter what people tell you, don't use coke, just because it contains phosphoric acid. The concentration is low, and the concentration of other stuff (namely sugars) is high, and these will cause you problems.
You can buy phosphoric acid from the internet, typical chemical suppliers, or you can find it in some strong cleaning products, like certain kettle cleaners/descalers. It's also in some of the commercial rust converters, but I've never found them remotely as effective as the pure stuff. I think there's also a reactive phosphate in POR15, which is why it's so good at stopping rust.
Normal safety protocols apply: although phosphoric acid is much less aggressive than other strong acids (like battery acid, for example), you still don't want it on your skin or - gods forbid - in your eyes. Decent nitrile gloves and eye protection are a must!
Angus242164
Various rust converter products are available from automotive paint shops, I bought a spray bottle of something based on phosphoric acid a while ago, haven't used it yet though.
Giles
I've had great joy with POR 15 to kill rust.
bigal
Thanks. Input appreciated.
POR15 final stage is quite permanent right? I want the rust gone and hope to use some kind of waxy type sealer (as museums I hear use) to prevent further corrosion. This means I'm not adding a permanent layer and destroying the originality if you know what I mean.
I wonder if the POR15 metal prep will do the trick?
Going to watch some phosphoric acid rust conversion vids now.
1971_144GL
I'm short of time, so in shorthand:
There are much better recipes than many of the auto shop concoctions that are an amazing price relative to the active chemistry.
Up to 10% v/v orthophosphoric is good with a suitable wetting agent. Higher concentration is not better. Avoid HCl or sulphur containing acid, bad news for preservation.
Preferably wash with a sequestering agent to remove chlorine and other mobile ions. Tannic acid correctly applied does well, goes black and will not harm most plaint. Make it up to 5% w/v and 10% alcohol. Several coats a day a part and leave for at least a week.
Mivrocrystalline wax can work for your goal. But it is a pain. I like Dinitrol av 100 thinned by 30% white spirit, excellent clear and stable wax like finish. It's chemistry is water displacing and it remains soluble, so very effective. Very easy to apply.
Por15 is perhaps best described as a cyanoacrylate, it is catalysed by the water in the metal surface microstructure and air forming a very effective barrier layer corrosion inhibition system. Pretty much permanent, but can be abraded off.
And remember that rust in itself does not create rust, lots of rusty things will last indefinitely. But active corrosion and it's rate is a whole other story for another time.
Giles
Phew, I'm glad that was shorthand. It all gets pretty technical when physics comes into the equation. Nice explanation.
Oppolock
I have had good results with Molasses on Sub frames and heavy structure in the past but I wouldn't use it on panels unless you were prepared to lose the tin.
Its a dip and check process and can take a few weeks to yield good results but it does do a very nice job.
The other method I get good results with is soda blasting using the cheapy sand blast guns with the top load reservoirs using either Bicarb beads or 20kg bags of Bi Carb powder, it uses low pressure and will remove surface rust while leaving paint intact with careful use.
Excellent on Alloy wheels too.
bigal
erm.. the lemon was useless.
Time to break out the right acids for the task. Thanks for the advice @1971_144GL
I'll get back to this once my Volvo's are in a happy place.. they both need attention as a priority. 145 nearly back together. XC90 is making some awful power steering whines and unusual noises. Why don't I just own a modern Camry!
