Philia_Bear
Massey165;97421 wroteWould be interested in system to suit B20 in P1800E to replace FI and ignition
Your better off with ms1v3 for na applications on a 4cylinder
Half the cost (of ms3) and has all the features you care about
Also need to think about what you want to do for a trigger wheel (something on the front pully is most common)
egads
Fitting a 123ignition solves a lot of the annoying problems with b20 and gives back a lot of the missing grunt
Massey165
AS soon as you modify the head and had a bigger cam the 60's designed computer can cope with the additional air flow.
Ex850R
Massey165;97491 wroteAS soon as you modify the head and had a bigger cam the 60's designed computer can cope with the additional air flow.
Those things got folks to the moon!
deleted_user_160
egads;97458 wroteFitting a 123ignition solves a lot of the annoying problems with b20 and gives back a lot of the missing grunt
Something similar, is happening with mine.
deleted_user_160
user48736353002;78685 wrote@jaybee sorry I meant what year did you get the price of $700 aud for a MS3x. AUD to USD change in last few years has driven up cost of Megasquirt stuff from the US.
Sorry I must have over looked that, thinking you were talking to someone else.
I was no quoted it was offered to me, currently still is at that price.
I have to pay extra for both harness.
Rallybomb
Hey Philia,
Its an 87 740 Turbo Wagon which has been converted to manual.
I blew a bearing after turning up the Turbo pressure to 10 PSI.
I got myself a descent N/A 93 940 bottom end. Putting in new pistons and oil squirters and all that.
I found out my car qualifies for vintage status in 6 months time. That saves stacks of rego money. I will be joining a rally club and doing some rallying when its going again.
It looks like these new engine computer systems are reasonably easy to program. I look forward to tinkering around with all that at some stage.
Vee_Que
The engine shouldn't have broken at 10psi.....
deleted_user_160
The more we all get on aftermarket ecu's locally, the more information we have available, which will no doubt end up on here.
Just like it has for a long time on turbobricks.
deleted_user_160
Vee_Que;97777 wroteThe engine shouldn't have broken at 10psi.....
No doubt there were other contributing factors
guru
F
user48736353002
To follow up on the initial idea of this EOI, I'm not looking at doing MS builds or installs anymore. I wasn't knocked over with interest and I've ended up with a couple of other car related projects to keep me busy, but happy keep the conversation going about MS ECUs and such.
deleted_user_160
You forget volvo guys are tight asses ;p and procrastinate way too much.
Like I did for ages.
Rallybomb
Ha Ha yes my engine project is over 2 years old already. Ridiculous, and yes I thought I should spend my money on other things than the Volvo.
But I've been collecting all good parts over time, The K camshaft to replace the T, An adjustable cam sprocket which I may not need, the curved exhaust manifold, special sealing ring for the turbo to last longer without a leak.
By the way, there are the good variable adjustable camshaft gears on ebay right now, brand new for a good price. I got one of those.
And Yes 10 PSI is not excessive,
I've always driven pretty hard so it may just have been on it's way out and the extra power put it over the top.
I still haven't opened up the bottom end yet to see the exact problem. But the clean piston top and clean circle on the head where the carbon has been smashed off, shows the piston was traveling further than it should. But not broken off loose.
Thanks for bringing up the Topic. The last I read about megasquirts made it seem hard and problematic. It's nice to know it is a valid option. I like the idea to program the engine exactly how I want it.
Vee_Que
How you want doesn't mean it's correct however.
Rallybomb
I used to tune my old 144 Vovo timing by ear. At idle, I could hear when the engine was at ease and just right. When I finally got a strobe light, it turns out the timing was spot on. Then with the timing light, I began playing with the springs in the distributor. Stretching them and shortening.
I came up with two tunings. One was strong driving around town and used less petrol but had no good high revs power. The other setting had great power at high revs but was slow at the lower revs and used more petrol. Playing with the two springs I could never get the right advance across the whole rev range.
That car had so little power any increase was noticeable. My ultimate test was to check my top speed getting to the top of certain hills. Even changing the heavy metal radiator fan to an electric made a noticeable difference.
I am not expecting perfection and the compensating for the turbo kicking in part I have no clue on how to do that yet, but seeing as the factory settings are rather conservative, I am sure I can get it running better than the factory without blowing pistons out the side wall and be more fuel efficient. Why do these old Volvo engines use so much friggin petrol.
user48736353002
Just out of interest, have you checked and/or changed the timing on the 740?
Vee_Que
The right foot and the computer systems aiming for stoichiometric air fuel ratio, not lean while cruising. Also worm sensors etc. They do the best of 10 on the highway I'm general.
However, you need a wideband to actually tune an efi system, even my 122 with two dcoe webers and electronic ignition it can sound ok. But in reality it's not right.
Rallybomb
The timing on my 740 is correct, I've never changed anything about it. My experience is the computer systems are expecting certain signals and if it doesn't compute or the knock sensor lights up, Then it all readjusts and there is nothing you can do about it. So I just try and make sure the computer is receiving all the correct signals to work its best.
I think cleaning the MAF sensor these days is the equivalent of the old days changing the points to keep a car in tune. If you've never done it before give it a go. The car runs smoother after if it was dirty.
I have cut the the protective grill off the engine side of mine to help the airflow in to the engine.
If the car runs without blowing up then the tuning is right. After that, it is all art.
Vee_Que
Not quite, they get sensitive and you don't know the difference.