wiseman73
not as yet
nickm
Check plugs and Leads. Have you adjusted the base idle Amm/Co2 thingy
Do these ones have wiring loom problems... grounds or degrading harness?
wiseman73
Timing seems ok, Tested it again this morning seems to idle ok when cold after a min or so when it heats up that's when it starts to shake and carry on.
jamesinc
Might be the ECT sensor then
Angus242164
The fuel pressure regulators on these can fail in such a way that no fuel leaks through to the vacuum line, but pressure in the rail increases and it runs rich, however I don't think that's your problem.
It could be that the replacement MAF also has issues, they are a common failure item.
Apart from the miss, does it run and drive OK above idle? If so I would focus on the idle control system, which consists of the throttle position switch and idle control motor, controlled by the ECU.
Rechecking for vacuum leaks, particularly around the injector seals might be a good idea.
wiseman73
runs ok above idle.
For shits a giggles tonight I disconnected the IAC valve and the thing idled exactly the same. I was expecting it to stall due to IAC having no power from ecu.
I pulled the IAC a while back when it first reverted back to bad idle (engine shake) cleaned it out it had tons of sludge I'm it.
I have installed new O2 sensor on Monday and ECTS previous weekend. Nothing has made a difference. I adjusted the TPS on the weekend and when I had it out there was a fair bit of carb cleaner it from when I did the TB clean months ago. I can unplug the TPS and get a check engine light but idle is still the same plugged in or not,
Something funky is going on .
wiseman73
Also I have sprayed carby cleaner around the intake side looking for leaks about 3 times hunting for vacuum leak cannot find any. Even bought a new inlet manifold gasket ready to go as well. I have drowned the injectors many time as well around the seals all seems ok.
Angus242164
The TPS and idle motor plugs are the same, and are in reach of each other, is it possible they're plugged into the wrong plugs?
This will cause lots of idle problems, and will kill the idle control circuit in the ECU, have seen it before.
wiseman73
It is set up the same as when it was running ok before. I checked with photos of engine bay I took when I first bought the vehicle.
I need to get a new maf I think as symptons are the same as when I first bought the car and it had the incorrect maf installed. Does anyone have 2.2lh maf up for sale.
Has anyone had luck with ebay refurb ones.
nickm
Have you adjusted the MAF and base idle?
wiseman73
nope I need to get a logic probe today.
nickm
A 12 volt led will do the job.
Also a multi-meter on the O2 sensor will work .
As you move the grub screw you will get it to switch lean/rich. This is what the LED tells you.
But Logic probe is good for checking the sensor outputs.
Get the pinout tables for the Fuel ECU and the Ignition ECU.
You can remove the back covers of the ECUs and probe along, also use the multi meter to check correct voltages and resistance.
You can verify all the wiring and grounds at his point too.
From my experience theses problems can have you chasing your tail.
wiseman73
Update.
Reman Maf arrived, installed it, no more miss at 2000rpm and no more rich smell, seems to be running much better, Still shaking at idle rev's not fluctuating though on the tachometer seems hovering stable at 850rpm.
Went bake to hunting for a vacuum leak still nothing I can see, More than willing to change the intake gasket but I cannot fault it. Engine intake is quite carbon up though due to running rich for so long.
Engine not showing signs of blown head gasket, New plugs are bit fouled up though.
Starts really easy. I am getting new engine mounts sent this week as they look soft but not broken, Passenger side looks squished out on one side. Has anyone else had this issue due to bad mounts. I can move the engine by hand with some force get prob half a inch of movement. Oil filter still has enough gap to fit my finger between chassis and filter.
really giving me the #$%S this shake issue
Angus242164
The 240 engine mount design is quite poor, as they are close together and very low on the engine's centre of gravity, combine this with soft mounts with no limiting device built in, plenty of sources of oil leaks above the right one, and they tear themselves apart in a short period of time.
This was addressed in the design of the 700 series.
wiseman73
Well I have not updated for a while so here goes.
The old girl successfully passed RWC 2 months ago and has been driven as my sons learner car since, Has been excellent no major issues. Done over 1400k seems to be getting better and better each trip.
Still shakes a bit on idle, Did not get around to swapping mounts yet (although I have them)
So below is what it needed. to get to this point
FRONT SHOCKS
REAR SHOCKS
LH FRONT FLEXI BRAKE LINES
BRAKE FLUID FLUSH
FRONT AND REAR ROTORS AND PADS
BOTH INNER TIE RODS
CENTER BEARING AND DONUT
FULL SERVICE
NEW MAF
NEW O2 SENSOR
NEW TENP SENSOR
ODOMETER AND SPEEDO FIX
NEW RADIATOR (SAMLL LEAK IN TRANS COOLER CAUGHT JUST IN TIME)
TRANSMISSION FLUSH
So it still needs a few more things done but they are not urgent.
Overdrive bypass plate fitted (relay is possessed works when it wants to)
Sway bar mounts front
End link Bushings/
So I prob dropped way more money into it than what its worth but its a great learner car and still looks very good for its age. Surprisingly if you hunt around on the internet its not that expensive for bits.
volvo1975
Great looking Volvo you have
