Dash out and hvac out and you can paint the back side of the patch. Orobably also a bunch of smuts built up as well for it to hage rusted out in the first place.
At least its an easy location to paint the back side v's the corners of that cavity. I know the pain all to well :(
carnut222Bugger! That's why I delete that water-trapping foam on all mine like the factory did starting in about 1990. Why do you need to remove the dash? That hole goes into the plenum chamber, so any water going in there shouldn't end up inside the car...well, it may end up in the heater box...yes, bugger! Now I see!
I want to remove the dash to make sure I dont miss anything on the inside and to make sure I dont set my new dash on fire when I weld it back up. Its nowhere near as bad as what ive been working with on the HQ but still slightly annoying.
VolvoHordzDash out and hvac out and you can paint the back side of the patch. Orobably also a bunch of smuts built up as well for it to hage rusted out in the first place.
At least its an easy location to paint the back side v's the corners of that cavity. I know the pain all to well :(
Yeah it looks pretty easy to get to with the hardest part going to be unpicking and resealing the seam on the top cowling. I was going to tidy up and repaint the engine bay anyway so after ive done all the suspension and other jobs ill come back to this. Figured now its been exposed and painted it cant get much worse.
Nothing a grinder, bottle of bunnings gas and a Joe Rogan podcast cant fix hahahah
Our you could just channel Vice Grip Garage and either say "I'll pretend I didn't see that" or screw an old number plate on too6 of it and call it good...
There is weld through gal spray that heals itself , Wūrth have it , the cans are very heavy!
Slowbrickhttps://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/285/1S8P1T8A54CM.jpg
Angry reacts only.
I'm much less angry about the rust hole than I am about having to remove the dash again! Maybe I'll just glue a milk bottle over it instead.
Damn, what a biach of a place to get a rust hole. And unusual; the more common place for metal cancer in that area is on the horizontal panel above - i.e. below the windscreen, just past the join.
Recently I cut that section out of a parts car body to repair another car which has rust in that horizontal panel.
ChrisOur you could just channel Vice Grip Garage and either say "I'll pretend I didn't see that" or screw an old number plate on too6 of it and call it good...
I do have a few old plates here that I could use and a big tube of marine sealant hahaha
Ex850RThere is weld through gal spray that heals itself , Wūrth have it , the cans are very heavy!
Ive been using Dymark brush on zinc primer for the HQ. Agreed that the cans are very heavy for how small they are!
Major Ledfoothttps://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/186177#Comment_186177
Damn, what a biach of a place to get a rust hole. And unusual; the more common place for metal cancer in that area is on the horizontal panel above - i.e. below the windscreen, just past the join.
Recently I cut that section out of a parts car body to repair another car which has rust in that horizontal panel.
Yeah it is a strange place for it to rust and was most likely caused by the sound deadening holding onto moisture. Either way doesnt look impossible to fix so ill just patch it up later.
Rusty hole be gone! A bit of body filler to smooth it out and it will be good as gold!
Eheheheh yeah boi we back together baby.
This is what scope creep looks like. Started out just preparing the engine bay for paint when I "decided" it would be a good idea to also clean up and paint underneath so I have a nice base to start from that doesn't include 30 years of rear main seal soaked sound deadening.
Grinder with coarse wire wheel makes short work of it but far out the mess! I'm sure it will be all worth it when it's all nice and clean under there...maybe... probably not.
Do it once do it right
After the rust hole I found in the firewall I dont really want to chance it again especially living so close to the ocean. My plan is to knock a little bit off at a time until the front half of the car is done and then paint it. Then when Im working on the rear half of the car Ill drop the diff and the fuel tank and do the rear half little by little with the plan to have it all cleaned and painted by the time new stuff is ready to be installed.
Coat everything in fish oil.... its how the fish prevent themselves from rusting
Oil soaked things general don't rust as much I find!
Land rovers are made from composite rust
sure looks like a clean interior now. onions are good for getting rid of most musty smells in cars. cheap too. i often chop up ten kilos and leave them in the car overnight / 24hrs. smells great. i dunno how it works. i think they absorb toxins as well as emit stuff that kills viruses and bacteria and mould etc. best no to forget them though - they sure do stink once they go off...
Havent forgotten about this car. Ive been working on it in my spare time between other projects and have been on a big push to get it back on the ground and out of the garage so I can work on other things. As such ive been focussing on having the bodywork completed so its painted and sealed up before going outside. I have also stripped the entire underside and coated it. The engine bay has also been painted and the front end reassembled. Has turned out pretty good and is definitely motivating to see it coming together.
Engine bay painted in Nardo Grey
Underside stripped/checked for rust and painted. I painted it in epoxy primer to seal it and then put the stoneguard on top
I also painted the front frame rails as they always seem to get knocked around and figured they could do with the protection
Then a month or two passed and the BNE stuff arrived so I got the front struts reassembled. I had previously assembled them with OEM Volvo replacement mounts but have decided I want to have a go at tracking this car and wanted something a little more adjustable and strong. Also eggplant purple is mad.
Paint chipped a bit on install, thats ok, ill put a large washer underneath it on final install. Im also missing the front plate which is here somewhere :|
Then the diff got cleaned and painted. Didnt bother going to the effort of stripping it bare. Close enough is good enough I think in this application. Got the BNE rear trailing arm bushes installed. Mmm eggplant
I sent the rear trailing arms away to be blasted and painted. They were mega gross and I figured id pay someone who has the facilities to do that job while I work on other things. When they get back ill install the new superpro poly and then when the diff goes back in these eggplanty bois can also go in.
Thats pretty much where im up to now with it. Once I get the suspension back into it, then it will go out into the driveway to be paint corrected and waxed up. Then its going on ice for a few months while I tend to the 245 which desperately needs rust repairs and the VW van which needs to have the newly arrived rear seat installed so it can be registered as a 4 seater. So much to do, so little time!
Did you go luxe steer of no luxe steer? The bne stuff is mad though, the difference in handling with the back end mods in particular is huge
jamesincDid you go luxe steer of no luxe steer? The bne stuff is mad though, the difference in handling with the back end mods in particular is huge
Non luxe steer. I figured I could change it later. My plan is to get it driving and moving and then change things after that. Agreed on the BNE stuff being quality. I have the trailing arm bushes in the 245 and it feels nice in corners. Drives up to pie in the sky are the best. Feel that rear end boogie
