tissueboxonwheels
Hi. My mum's Volvo 240 sedan battery looks like its dying. Its nearly 7 years old.
She has to crank start the car about 5 times in the morning to get it going - due to a "safety" computer failure which Carson and Murphy could not resolve. In the end CaM resolved the problem by cutting out the safety computer but it means she has to crank start the car a couple of times to get it going.
Anyhow, any recommendations for a good battery?
I like ACDelco sealed no-maintainance battery but I use that in a vintage VW.
Philia_Bear
There is no such thing as a safty computer in a 240
The mechanics are either idiots or explain things poorly
The only thing that prevents starting outright is a failed pnp switch where car won't crank at all
Crank and never start are
1. The fuel pump relay
2. The cps if car is 1988 or newer
3. Dead ignition fuse in engine bay
4. Dead fuel pump
5. Biodegradable wiring
Crank and won't start easily are
1. Fuel valve on fuel pump
2. Fuel pump
3. Fuel filter
4. Dying battery with slow crank speed
5. Clogged injectors
6. Old spark plugs
Philia_Bear
More details of car and issues required
tissueboxonwheels
Sorry, I should have mentioned that my mum's volvo is a 1990 240GLmodel sedan - made in Sweden - a manual.
tissueboxonwheels
Its not old spark plugs, clogged injector - the problems with the start arose when the mechanics at Carson and Murphy were not able to source a working computer which was somehow associated with the fuel and ignition. It just kept cutting off the engine and mum had to get it towed 5 times. Carson and Murphy explained that the computer cut off the fuel in the event of the car turning turtle for safety reasons. But now the computer was malfunctioning and no good replacement could be found. I think three replacements were tried before Carson aM gave up.
tissueboxonwheels
But anyhow the battery is nearly 7 years old... and I'm wondering what good brand or type I should choose for her.
She was using the RACV issued battery.
familyman
I've read 'sealed' batteries do still vent a little. Therefore without an easy way to refill, there is no way to top up that lost fluid. (i.e. Kind of defeats the purpose.) Anyway... My 240 was purchased about 4 years ago. The battery was a couple of years old then. The first owner rarely drove it after purchasing it new in 1991 (it had 17,000km on it). I had another car so I allowed the rego to lapse, and didn't drive it myself for about two years, often not starting it for months at a time. The battery obviously went flat several times. I'd recharge it if I needed to move the car. Anyone that understands car batteries more than Mr Average, will recognise this as harsh treatment for a car battery. They are designed to produce high current, for a short period of time, then recharged. I was doing the opposite - a sustained slow-drain (dash clock) over a long period of time to dead flat, with infrequent recharging. Then I decided to register the car, recharged the battery, and have been driving it for about two years. I've decided I'll be getting the same battery again - if I can find it. It's a Deka 640RMF. Get the same brand anyway. (I think its amps might be overkill, and this is probably reflected in the price.)
tissueboxonwheels
I use a ACDelco sealed no maintainace battery in my vintage Beetle - albeit it has much less electronics to power - its been in my car since 2001. Works ok despite running it down so many times.
Vee_Que
I like the acdelco, and also supercharge gold. they are silver lined and they don't gas in regular use so you do not need to top them up like the cheap nasty basic batteries. This is good as most people top them up with water and the plates wear quite fast vs the silver lined ones.
That's my opinion as a qaulified mechanic who works on fleets of trucks and buses that are a lot harder on batteries than a car usually can be!
I'd bet they mean it has something to do with the immobiliser that had been fitted, though, it could just be a sensor. Take it back to Berrys and get it sorted. To not have the right ecu sounds not right to me as all late 240s from 88 on used the same computer systems.
jamesinc
@tissueboxonwheels if the 240 uses LH-Jetronic 2.4, I have a spare ECU and EZK that you can have for $50 shipped. The ECU controls fuel, the EZK controls ignition. If it's Jetronic 2.4, there'll be a little diagnostic port on the passenger strut tower, as per this diagram:
Philia_Bear
@tissueboxonwheels
Where in Australia are you located?
tissueboxonwheels
I'm near Warrandyte, Victoria. I send my Volvo to Berry Motors/Carson and Murphy for the last 20 years.
Philia_Bear
Is Berry and C&M the same mob or different?
tissueboxonwheels
Carson and Murphy and Berry Motors (Victoria) were separate entities at one stage. But CaM retired and BM bought over their good will, customer register and name etc.
So its now Berry Motors / Carson and Murphy.
tissueboxonwheels
jamesinc;71230 wrote@tissueboxonwheels if the 240 uses LH-Jetronic 2.4, I have a spare ECU and EZK that you can have for $50 shipped. The ECU controls fuel, the EZK controls ignition. If it's Jetronic 2.4, there'll be a little diagnostic port on the passenger strut tower, as per this diagram:
Thanks for that! That sounds like a great idea.
sucksqueezebangblow
I replaced the OEM battery in the D-Max last week with an "Amaron" battery. Made in India with non recycled lead apparently.
tissueboxonwheels
tissueboxonwheels;71247 wrotejamesinc;71230 wrote@tissueboxonwheels if the 240 uses LH-Jetronic 2.4, I have a spare ECU and EZK that you can have for $50 shipped. The ECU controls fuel, the EZK controls ignition. If it's Jetronic 2.4, there'll be a little diagnostic port on the passenger strut tower, as per this diagram:
Thanks for that! That sounds like a great idea.
Hi, omg I am sorry for this very late reply. But is it still available?
jamesinc
I'll send you a PM
Ex850R
Philia_Bear;71244 wroteIs Berry and C&M the same mob or different?
Used to have BM Spares under the roof too.
