Angus242164
The Volvo actuators are the most elegant way to go, good quality German made VDO, they're designed to fit the car, with the correct link rods etc. You can easily add a fourth motor to the driver's door, the holes are there ready to go, for LHD cars where that is the passenger door.
If adding remote central locking of some form, the way I would probably do it would be to fit the entire stock 240 system, but also add a motor to the driver's door, and delete the original switch from the driver's door (although there would be no harm fitting it, if you have one in good condition). I would simply join the lock wire from the remote module to the 240 lock relay, and the unlock wire from the module to the 240 unlock relay.
That said, there are numerous other ways of getting to the same end result, each to their own.
I have enough stock 240 central locking components here to equip at least four cars, and a box of aftermarket systems, some have never been used.
familyman
So you're (Angus) saying the driver door doesn't normally have a motor. The 1985, or was it 86... that I pulled apart, it had one. It's owners were clueless - everything done by a mechanic - and everything done wrong for that matter. So they didn't fit it. Must've been the original owner who only had it for about 3 years.
Angus242164
From memory, they don't have a motor, as the driver's door is mechanically unlocked/locked by turning the key or using the interior lock knob, so there is no need for a motor.
If adding remote central locking, you need to fit a motor. This is definitely the case with 700 series cars, I think 240's are the same.
There's a bit of info here:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=224742
His modified diagram shows exactly how I would do it, except I'd probably delete the stock switches in the driver's door for simplicity, as they aren't really needed.
Cal
Fantastic, thanks for the input.
My doors weren't exemplary so i swapped all four, the doors i put on were complete, still had the bellows attached. I already had central locking so it seemed simple just plugging these in and the front speakers as well (will need to wire in the rear door speakers).
I was able to unclip the switch on the door locks you speak of @familyman remove the locks and install the ones suited to my keys from my old doors, re-attach the switch and hope everything runs smoothly.
It didnt.. When i attach the male and female switches from the doors to the harness the locks clicked shut, then when i unlock using the key it only unlocks that door. Since doing this my battery has gone flat so i'm afraid its somehow draining it. I'll pull the door card off and check everything again, to be honest i assumed they weren't remote so didn't look for a motor.
Central locking aside, i would love a harness for the power windows @Angus242164
You've really saved me this week with that and the brake lines.
familyman
Multimeter time then.
Check the fuse (not just that it look ok, or even continuity, but spin it in the fuse holder too, to 'scratch through' any poor contact)... other connections - positive - and that ground is connecting to the body/ground.
It could still be the driver door switch too. As before, I'm 99% sure I've read that switch starts acting up at some stage. Disconnect it and test across the wires coming from the switch first - that it shows continuity one way - and open circuit the other - when you turn the key in the door.
While it's disconnected, test the other wires going out the door into the cabin - by connecting them together with a bit of wire, etc. If the central locking activates, then obviously the switch needs cleaning/fixing/replacing.
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You can also test for phantom current drain by making sure ignition is off (keys in pocket is safest - no-one else can wander out and turn the stereo on, etc. by mistake). This is so you don't blow the meter by accidentally turning the key.
Check if anything else is on the same fuse as the central locking. If there is, disconnect the central locking power wire and connect it somehow/somewhere else where it's the only thing being powered.
Then remove one battery cable. Put the meter on amps. Swap its red probe from V to the A socket (not mA yet). Touch one probe to the battery post and the other to the disconnected cable. Rub them back and forth a bit to make sure they're connecting through any corrosion/acid. Note what it reads. Then turn the meter down to mA and do it again, and again note what it reads.
(With digital meters it's safe to measure on both A and mA - you just might not be able to read the screen. But if you're using an old analog, then use the highest setting that shows a reading - going lower could kill the meter.)
I'm saying to do both A & mA, because I don't know offhand how much current central locking draws. i.e. If you have the meter on A (amps) but it draws mA (doubtful, should be more, but anyway) - then the central locking might not register anything on the Amps setting. Conversely, if you only test on the mA setting - current drain might already be off the scale showing something like '---' on the screen - so you won't see any decrease/increase in current. Short version = if you have a digital meter - measure on both settings.
Then disconnect power for the central locking - do the same test across the battery terminal and cable - and compare the A and mA readings to what you noted before.
If the reading drops - then central locking is drawing power it shouldn't be.
Obviously you can use this to test other suspects.
Btw 1: Remember it's winter - and batteries fail more often in winter. So it could just be the usual small drain - such as the clock - that's flattening the battery. Or if you've been working on the car with the doors open, etc. Then you drive - which gives a surface charge to the battery - but later goes flat again. i.e. There may be no new current drain - it might just be an indication the battery is plotting to leave you stranded at the worst possible moment.
Btw 2: If you've required a jump start recently due to a flat battery, it's possible the diodes in the alternator may have been short circuited and are now draining the battery to ground.
Btw 3: I had a broken wire in my aftermarket harness. It often happens where they pass through the door. Disconnect the central locking power wire and test each wire for continuity - mainly the two going from the switch to the relay, power, and ground anyway.
Major Ledfoot
Do the central locking motors get weak over time, so that they don't quite have the grunt to fully lock and unlock the door any more?
A_Volvo_Driver
@DCW242
Duncan did the power windows/central locking conversion for my 245 recently. It works great, so he might be able to offer advice.
Angus242164
bgpzfm142;80732 wroteDo the central locking motors get weak over time, so that they don't quite have the grunt to fully lock and unlock the door any more?
I wouldn't think so, they are just a simple 12V DC motor and a couple of gears inside the case.
It's more likely that grease on the moving parts of the door locks has hardened, and made the locks require more force to operate, which might be too much for the motors, especially in cold weather.
familyman
Not really. They can seem that way if the locks gum up - just lubricate every couple of years.
Electric windows sure get slow though. On a mid-80s 240GLE I had, the front passenger one required you push a little on the way down and pull upwards a lot, on the glass. I lubricated everything and it got better, but was still quite slow closing.
Angus242164
With the windows the mounting holes for the regulators are slotted, and if the bolts loosen, the regulator can move slightly in the door, and throw the geometry out. The channels for the glass can also get dirty and cause extra friction on the glass, and the switches can get carbon buildup on the contacts, causing a reduction in current to the motor.
A bit of a system overhaul can make a huge difference with those windows.
Major Ledfoot
Angus242164;80756 wrote
It's more likely that grease on the moving parts of the door locks has hardened, and made the locks require more force to operate, which might be too much for the motors, especially in cold weather.
<p>
Given the weather here and the car itself, this seems the most likely cause. VADIS' parts list shows two part numbers for the door lock motors, one being superseded
familyman;80801 wroteThey can seem that way if the locks gum up - just lubricate every couple of years.
<p>
These locks may not have been lubed by the previous owner, hence my present dramas.
Thanks gents for the replies.
