Coolant explained

Oppolock · 2015-12-29T02:09:43+00:00

I know this is an old thread,but a question for me remains. Do i use a concentrate of an anti corrosion,or is a pre mix better than a concentrate? Any tho...

Canoe

Philia_Bear;119601 wroteIve swapped all of mine via water flush to 50/50 green mix and never looked back

so you just flush water from the mains into the coolant system, which flushes out the old mix, then add the new mix after?
What about the thermostat not opening? How much of the old water/coolant mix is still within the system? Does that make sense? You might flush the radiator and SOME of the old coolant, but how much is still within the head etc. Hope that makes sense.

ToomanyVolvos

I use the principal that a drain from the radiator only gets half the fluid out.

Method 1: Draining and refilling with known same type of fluid.

Just drain what you can and refill with correctly mixed coolant (50/50), usually about half of system capacity.

Method 2: Changing type altogether or removing unknown coolant type.

You need a few drain and fills to remove the old stuff (with the heater on and run engine until thermostat opens. I try to only add hot water to a hot engine when flushing).... perhaps the first couple with free/mains water (unless your in an area with high mineral tap water, Adelaide?) and last few drain and fills should be de-mineralised water to minimise contamination. I've found generally using this method the last drain will get about half of the de-mineralised water out (about 4L of an 8 L system) and you can add straight concentrate to end up with 50/50 in your system.

Vee_Que

You can drain the block on most Volvo motors too. Tap on the exhaust side.

jamesinc

Canoe;119620 wroteWhat about the thermostat not opening?

Thermostat is right at the top of the system, whether or not it opens, the only coolant it will leave is whatever is in the radiator top hose. You could always just pop the hose off to finish it off.

If you're concerned about tap water, distilled water is less than $2/L

Philia_Bear

ToomanyVolvos;119607 wroteIt's not the longevity of the coolant that concerns me, it's protecting my aluminium heads and blocks from corrosion indefinitely that is the goal. It's choosing a coolant with the right technology for the car, and Volvo won't tell us so we are left guessing. In my mind that's a nonsense act on the part of Volvo. What if they refused to tell us oil spec so we had to buy "Volvo" oil at 3 times the going rate. At least with the Trannies they tell us it's JWS3309.

I used to just put whatever green stuff was on special and spend the $$$ on good motor oil, but now I've developed a fear of using less than best coolant after loosing two cylinder heads. Granted these were likely due lack of maintenance over decades of previous owners.

I think your overthinking this way to much
Ive never seen a single volvo whiteblock head or block corrode out or even show signs of corroding... even after extended dirty water opperation
The heater core or radiator fail long long before the block or head do when using water and will kill off the motors of the idiot owners from the ensuing overheat

Volvo did not use a cheap and shit alloy like toyoda that corrodes out a week after you spit on it

If you really want to protect it futher over using any 50/50 mix then you should fit an annode into the block or head somewhere

Where i have seen hg fail have been because it was done previously after an overheat and the previous person just did it wrong

Failing hoses and failing coolant resovoir tanks are the number one killer of p80s at this point

ToomanyVolvos

I think my point was mostly missed. Now Volvo has made matters worse with yet another colour. My point was as per the first post by Grumpy there are different coolant technologies and colour is NOT an indicator of coolant technology.

True we can mostly get away with *any* coolant with good results, but that's not the point. There is a correct coolant technology for our cars and Volvo REFUSES to tell us what it is.

To make matters worse Volvo changed from Green to Blue. Most recently it's changed again!

Below pic is *NEWEST* genuine fluid mixed in Penrite water

My genuine coolant put into my XC90 3 years ago was Blue, now the genuine coolant (made in Germany) mixed with de-mineralised water is as pictured. That's definitely green!!! WTF VOLVO!!!! Just tell us if it's HOAT, OAT or IAT!!!

To confuse me even more I've looked at 3 volvo C30'S and including my own (which is getting this fluid) and all had an identical Amber coloured coolant - surely 3 separate C30's wouldn't have an aftermarket fluid which appears identical but different than what I've seen in my other Volvos. My same year (07) V50 has blue, and I am almost certain all these cars the fluid is factory.

I am surprised nobody else is ticked off that Volvo is insisting we are not entitled to know the spec technology of the fluid. It does matter and they are different, and this rediculous swapping of meaningless colours by Volvo is just making matters worse.

Vee_Que

Penrite etc get the recommendations from the manufacturers and that's what the codes are, they are alloy motors so will still be glycol based, the colour is a non issue Imo.

ToomanyVolvos

Penrite confirm they have no "recommendation" for the more modern whiteblocks, Volvo refuse to advise the spec.... Even though it is almost certain it is HOAT which means Penrite 7 year and ZEREX G-05 complies (and no doubt many others).

Volvo changing colours has just compounded the uncertainty created by refusing to give owners the fluid specifications. This is bad all round and I don't know how they can legally or morally deprive owners this information. Even if we are all willing to pay 90 AUD for 4 litres of the special fluid it's not readily available in many circumstances (location, top ups etc).

At risk of becoming known as the crazy coolant guy, I just hope Volvo read this thread and offer us some enlightenment.

Oppolock

I use this now, Red block/White block it doesnt matter.
But you MUST flush and flush well before you change over or you contaminate the new coolant.
740/S90/V40t/850 all good BUT flush with the appropriate flushing agent first.

https://www.nulon.com.au/products/cooling-systems/one-coolant

BigTriangle

Thanks Grumpy :)

ToomanyVolvos

That stuff is a "Universal" product, fine but unjustifiably expensive for no gain in our cars. Had a chat with the Nulon tech guy when it was released and asked him (or non gender person): "couple of my cars I want to last indefinitely (like as long as the pyramids), is this product superior?" He advised it was no superior to any particular formula, but rather formulated for wide compatibility and insisted just using the correct spec for your particular vehicle was the best (I.e. HOAT, OAT etc etc). All in all it is much much $$$ for a product that is not superior to just using the correct SPEC for you vehicle, which as per my earlier rant Volvo doesn't want us to know.

Personally I've not researched the Nulon varieties much beyond the above (Penrite stickers look better). I have asked quite a few questions from the Penrite tech guy and he confirms the 7 year Penrite (green) is HOAT formulated from a genuine BASF base product. Since the best I can find on the Volvo coolant is that it's HOAT, I'm happy with Penrite 7 year.

Even Penrite cannot give a coolant recommendation for our modern Volvo's because Volvo refuse to confirm the spec is HOAT. I gather they have recommendations on older Volvo's because they are Waaaay out of warranty.

timbo

Try looking at the Total lube guide I find they usually list compatible fluids years before penrite and Nulon catch up.
http://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/TotalAus/

Canoe

ToomanyVolvos;119642 wroteI use the principal that a drain from the radiator only gets half the fluid out.

Method 1: Draining and refilling with known same type of fluid.

Just drain what you can and refill with correctly mixed coolant (50/50), usually about half of system capacity.

Method 2: Changing type altogether or removing unknown coolant type.

You need a few drain and fills to remove the old stuff (with the heater on and run engine until thermostat opens. I try to only add hot water to a hot engine when flushing).... perhaps the first couple with free/mains water (unless your in an area with high mineral tap water, Adelaide?) and last few drain and fills should be de-mineralised water to minimise contamination. I've found generally using this method the last drain will get about half of the de-mineralised water out (about 4L of an 8 L system) and you can add straight concentrate to end up with 50/50 in your system.

Oppolock;c-137901 wroteI use this now, Red block/White block it doesnt matter.
But you MUST flush and flush well before you change over or you contaminate the new coolant.
740/S90/V40t/850 all good BUT flush with the appropriate flushing agent first.

https://www.nulon.com.au/products/cooling-systems/one-coolant

My problem is, that i neglected my coolant system for a while. I put a nulon "flush" into it, and its partially blocked the radiator, and it runs a lot hotter than before the flush. I was thinking of doing a citric acid flush, to see if it would get rid of the crud.

Any thoughts?

Oppolock

Canoe;c-137926 wrote
ToomanyVolvos;119642 wroteI use the principal that a drain from the radiator only gets half the fluid out.

Method 1: Draining and refilling with known same type of fluid.

Just drain what you can and refill with correctly mixed coolant (50/50), usually about half of system capacity.

Method 2: Changing type altogether or removing unknown coolant type.

You need a few drain and fills to remove the old stuff (with the heater on and run engine until thermostat opens. I try to only add hot water to a hot engine when flushing).... perhaps the first couple with free/mains water (unless your in an area with high mineral tap water, Adelaide?) and last few drain and fills should be de-mineralised water to minimise contamination. I've found generally using this method the last drain will get about half of the de-mineralised water out (about 4L of an 8 L system) and you can add straight concentrate to end up with 50/50 in your system.

Oppolock;c-137901 wroteI use this now, Red block/White block it doesnt matter.
But you MUST flush and flush well before you change over or you contaminate the new coolant.
740/S90/V40t/850 all good BUT flush with the appropriate flushing agent first.

https://www.nulon.com.au/products/cooling-systems/one-coolant
My problem is, that i neglected my coolant system for a while. I put a nulon "flush" into it, and its partially blocked the radiator, and it runs a lot hotter than before the flush. I was thinking of doing a citric acid flush, to see if it would get rid of the crud.

Any thoughts?

Considering the powdered Citric flush Ive come across in the past was blocking the steel coolant pipes around the back of whiteblocks id make sure you use a liquid flush agent.

I use the Pro flush agent from Supercheap but be aware that the thermostats on Whiteblocks can mess with the distribution so I remove them for flushing.
Its also worth noting that you flush any coolant/Heater core BACKWARDS so you blow the crud OUT of the core instead of back through the core.

The other general wisdom to take note of regarding cars that have been neglected coolant wise is that adding some coolants to water or diluted coolant mixes may soften rubber hoses and gaskets including head gaskets.

When i ran my shop Id often ask head issue clients about what the service history was on the car and more than a few times there was nice fresh coolant in the systems.

So be aware.

Vee_Que

Why would it soften a steel cored head gasket!? My experience in coolant is, change often, don't obsess over it unless it's a brand new rebuild that you've hot tanked the block, head and new radiator cores. If the radiator is blocked. Change it. Don't obsess over flushes. The fins are tiny and it won't break down easily.

rado

Good reading .

aftokineto

Sorry to again revive a now ancient thread. But is there still no solid consensus on coolant for older Volvos?! I assume nobody has had any more recent attempts at an actual answer from Volvo.

I'm trying to work out what to put in my 850. The Americans all seem to swear by G-05, whilst from what I've read here indicates a G-48 HOAT cooolant. What's common to both is that the coolant should definitely be phosphate-free and mixed 50/50.

The first I've found locally that might be suitable is the Penrite OEM long life:

Image description

Any thoughts on this?

ramrod

I would use G05 at 2:1 distilled water to coolant and change it every two years.

Don’t forget to drain and flush the engine block as the coolant inside it will never be drained otherwise and in extreme cases will corrode the aluminium coolant channels.

aftokineto

ramrod Thanks for the reply. I certainly agree a good flush is in order.

I was struggling to find any G-05 until I discovered the Valvoline Zerex G-05 and G-48 coolants were renamed about five years ago to Advanced 05 and Advanced 48 respectively.

Just for additional confusion FCP Euro has a nice coolant write-up and claims G-48 is what Volvos want.

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