That stuff is a "Universal" product, fine but unjustifiably expensive for no gain in our cars. Had a chat with the Nulon tech guy when it was released and asked him (or non gender person): "couple of my cars I want to last indefinitely (like as long as the pyramids), is this product superior?" He advised it was no superior to any particular formula, but rather formulated for wide compatibility and insisted just using the correct spec for your particular vehicle was the best (I.e. HOAT, OAT etc etc). All in all it is much much $$$ for a product that is not superior to just using the correct SPEC for you vehicle, which as per my earlier rant Volvo doesn't want us to know.

Personally I've not researched the Nulon varieties much beyond the above (Penrite stickers look better). I have asked quite a few questions from the Penrite tech guy and he confirms the 7 year Penrite (green) is HOAT formulated from a genuine BASF base product. Since the best I can find on the Volvo coolant is that it's HOAT, I'm happy with Penrite 7 year.

Even Penrite cannot give a coolant recommendation for our modern Volvo's because Volvo refuse to confirm the spec is HOAT. I gather they have recommendations on older Volvo's because they are Waaaay out of warranty.
ToomanyVolvos;119642 wroteI use the principal that a drain from the radiator only gets half the fluid out.

Method 1: Draining and refilling with known same type of fluid.

Just drain what you can and refill with correctly mixed coolant (50/50), usually about half of system capacity.

Method 2: Changing type altogether or removing unknown coolant type.

You need a few drain and fills to remove the old stuff (with the heater on and run engine until thermostat opens. I try to only add hot water to a hot engine when flushing).... perhaps the first couple with free/mains water (unless your in an area with high mineral tap water, Adelaide?) and last few drain and fills should be de-mineralised water to minimise contamination. I've found generally using this method the last drain will get about half of the de-mineralised water out (about 4L of an 8 L system) and you can add straight concentrate to end up with 50/50 in your system.
Oppolock;c-137901 wroteI use this now, Red block/White block it doesnt matter.
But you MUST flush and flush well before you change over or you contaminate the new coolant.
740/S90/V40t/850 all good BUT flush with the appropriate flushing agent first.

https://www.nulon.com.au/products/cooling-systems/one-coolant
My problem is, that i neglected my coolant system for a while. I put a nulon "flush" into it, and its partially blocked the radiator, and it runs a lot hotter than before the flush. I was thinking of doing a citric acid flush, to see if it would get rid of the crud.

Any thoughts?
Canoe;c-137926 wrote
ToomanyVolvos;119642 wroteI use the principal that a drain from the radiator only gets half the fluid out.

Method 1: Draining and refilling with known same type of fluid.

Just drain what you can and refill with correctly mixed coolant (50/50), usually about half of system capacity.

Method 2: Changing type altogether or removing unknown coolant type.

You need a few drain and fills to remove the old stuff (with the heater on and run engine until thermostat opens. I try to only add hot water to a hot engine when flushing).... perhaps the first couple with free/mains water (unless your in an area with high mineral tap water, Adelaide?) and last few drain and fills should be de-mineralised water to minimise contamination. I've found generally using this method the last drain will get about half of the de-mineralised water out (about 4L of an 8 L system) and you can add straight concentrate to end up with 50/50 in your system.
Oppolock;c-137901 wroteI use this now, Red block/White block it doesnt matter.
But you MUST flush and flush well before you change over or you contaminate the new coolant.
740/S90/V40t/850 all good BUT flush with the appropriate flushing agent first.

https://www.nulon.com.au/products/cooling-systems/one-coolant
My problem is, that i neglected my coolant system for a while. I put a nulon "flush" into it, and its partially blocked the radiator, and it runs a lot hotter than before the flush. I was thinking of doing a citric acid flush, to see if it would get rid of the crud.

Any thoughts?
Considering the powdered Citric flush Ive come across in the past was blocking the steel coolant pipes around the back of whiteblocks id make sure you use a liquid flush agent.

I use the Pro flush agent from Supercheap but be aware that the thermostats on Whiteblocks can mess with the distribution so I remove them for flushing.
Its also worth noting that you flush any coolant/Heater core BACKWARDS so you blow the crud OUT of the core instead of back through the core.

The other general wisdom to take note of regarding cars that have been neglected coolant wise is that adding some coolants to water or diluted coolant mixes may soften rubber hoses and gaskets including head gaskets.

When i ran my shop Id often ask head issue clients about what the service history was on the car and more than a few times there was nice fresh coolant in the systems.

So be aware.
Why would it soften a steel cored head gasket!? My experience in coolant is, change often, don't obsess over it unless it's a brand new rebuild that you've hot tanked the block, head and new radiator cores. If the radiator is blocked. Change it. Don't obsess over flushes. The fins are tiny and it won't break down easily.
4 years later
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