lasercowboy
would work out to be about the same when converted to AU$ - good find! i'll see if those guys do the bits i need too - thanks!
EDIT:
hmm - for both fuel pumps, set of parking brake shoes, HVAC motor and resistor pack:
-> International Auto Parts Australia: AU$575 (presumably free shipping)
-> FCP: US$391 incs shipping = AU$538 (including a couple of extra small things I need, and generally better brands).
240
Yeah they're pretty good, they have a fair bit of stuff, and OEM too in many cases.
Slowbrick
Vee_Que;60637 wroteFast is relative, they are all under 70rwkws, the later motor doesn't feel as powerful. But only due to cam more than anything else..
When you spray past an area and it stuttors, you will know you got it wet! Simple.
If I remember correctly what makes an FX is the 531 head, VX cam and the tune. An FX was an optional extra that people could opt in for. Im pretty sure that an FX was a 100kw motor instead of the 85kw offered by the regular F.
Vee_Que
lasercowboy;60893 wrotewould work out to be about the same when converted to AU$ - good find! i'll see if those guys do the bits i need too - thanks!
EDIT:
hmm - for both fuel pumps, set of parking brake shoes, HVAC motor and resistor pack:
-> International Auto Parts Australia: AU$575 (presumably free shipping)
-> FCP: US$391 incs shipping = AU$538 (including a couple of extra small things I need, and generally better brands).
If you contact them, they can do a better price too.
I get parts from berrys if its one item. Equal cost to fcp now with the dollar. But some people don't like contacting workshops for parts either.
lasercowboy
Yeah I never know if that's a faux pas or not - what's the etiquette? I'd prefer to get them from Berry's if i could.
Vee_Que
Just contact them! They want the business
240
So I can get a fitting for the manifold to run a vacuum line to a gauge which I will be installing at some point - does anyone know what size the thread in the manifold will be?
240
Maybe I should ask this in the troubleshooting section, but there I'm having a bit of an issue when starting from cold. It was particularly bad today as the car hasn't been started or a week or so. Basically the car just doesn't start very easily from cold - today, it stalled immediately after I started it, so I had to give it some revs to get it going. It then took a minute before it ran smoothly.
I don't think it ever did this before I changed the oil/filter, air filter, and spark plugs.
Any suggestions as to what I should look for?
Thanks.
themadracoon
Mine was doing the same (1984 B23E 240). Read about Line or Control Pressures being out etc but suspected the fuel filter (was also pinging badly on light throttle when warm/hot). Change of fuel filter made a world of difference....pinging mostly gone, cold start better, performs better too.
Vee_Que
Air mass meter settings.
240
I actually have a new fuel filter here which I'm planning to install at some point so hopefully it'll improve after I do that.
Vee_Que;61705 wroteAir mass meter settings.
This could actually be it though, because it's only become a problem since I changed the air filter. What exactly do you mean though - do I need to change the settings? If so, how, and what to?
Slowbrick
Did you make sure you installed it correctly? The air mass meter has an arrow on it showing the direction of the air. Also you mentioned you changed the plugs? Did you gap them or just put them in? What type of plug did you use?
240
If you mean did I install the air filter correctly, then yes I'm pretty sure I did - the same way as the old one anyway. Does it fit in both ways though? Maybe I should try turning it around...
I used genuine Volvo spark plugs (which I've read are rebranded Bosch). It said on the packet that they were pre-set; I still double checked the gap and they were correct.
Slowbrick
When you installed the air filter did you remove the AMM?
240
No.
familyman
No help to you whatsoever, but...
Our 1976 (K-Jet) had similar symptoms, but I never did find out what it was. (The car was scrapped due to rust.) Early am, especially when cold - and if it had been raining, you could simply forget about getting it started. (That's when I stumbled on the fan-heater-under-the-bonnet-for-30-minutes trick. I knew it would start tomorrow when it was sunny. So made it happen myself with the fan heater.)
After a cold/rainy night you had to wait until the day warmed a bit. It got so bad, the only way it could be started cold was, to bump the key in reverse, with the clutch pedal out - just long enough to roll it off the flat pad of the driveway, to start it rolling backwards. Then with the clutch in, key on, in reverse - roll backwards down our sloped driveway - leave it till the last second (to get the most speed up), and clutch start it in reverse.
Often it just ran fine then. But after months of this, It would shake and splutter for a little while - had to bounce my foot on the accelerator in just the right way to keep it running long enough for the revs to climb over a flat spot, so it didn't stall. If it did stall, I'd have to 'key drive' it up the driveway again in first gear (hold the key and use the starter motor to move the car back up the driveway). A s-l-o-w process, believe me! - so I could roll backwards and try to clutch it again. (I knew I could do this three times max - before having to put the battery on the 10A charger for a couple of hours.)
But once it was running for a couple of minutes, the rest of the day the problem vanished - it would start perfectly fine with the key. Even if the day was cold/raining. Plain weird.
Then the 1985 (LH injection I think) started acting the same. I changed the leads, plugs, it ran better for a day or two - then suddenly became difficult to start, stalled several times before running... Same bounce on the accelerator required, only very different to previous car - a lot more difficult to do that. But just like the '76, once running, it would go all day. Stripped and scrapped that car too - so never found out what it's problem was either. But I did pull the new plugs once or twice and noticed 3 were nice and dry, but one was quite oily. I didn't change the dist. cap and rotor though.
Oh, and this is unlikely to be the culprit, but... I did find I'd snapped a spark plug somehow. Must've socketed it up on the wrong angle or something. I think the core was broken, but the white ceramic section hadn't cracked right through yet - so I didn't realise. It finally snapped off when I pulled a lead. Now I do NOT recommend this as a test method, because I think cars our vintage have many times more voltage - however - I 'felt' the sparkplug was broken before I ever 'saw' it... (I brushed its lead with my hand.) That's when I turned it off, pulled the lead (thinking I hadn't pushed it on properly), and found the broken plug.
Volvo426
Check out the fuel pump check valve could be stuck partly open letting fuel drain back to tank.
240
Sorry, but I don't have any idea how to do that to be honest, due to inexperience... is it straightforward?
familyman
familyman
Actually, that first video that comes up in those results... It's working on a fuel line. So remove the -ve from the battery FIRST - and THEN remove the +ve TOO.
Disconnecting: -ve first, then +ve
Reconnecting: +ve first, -ve last
Read here for why:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a1454/4213127/
And hang that bracket with a coathanger - not by the fuel pump wires like that guy does, LOL! (So the wires are not being stretched at all.)
And of course fuel will come out. Have some rags/container handy.
