BradC
Read the 7/9 faq for trans flush instructions. It's reall very easy and not very messy.
Don't replace the oil pressure light with a gauge, have both. The sender part number I used has both in one and fits straight in the block replacing the oil pressure switch.
The reality is you'll never lose oil pressure, but in the .0001% chance yo do, you won't be watching the gauge to see it happen. Idiot light good.
240
Yep, that makes pretty good sense actually.
BradC
240;62154 wroteYep, that makes pretty good sense actually.
Take note, I don't make sense often.
240
Well, that's not necessarily true... your advice is still useful at least!
Now, this is one of those questions that may be stupid but I will ask it anyway - is the seatbelt warning light hooked up to all the seats, or just the driver's one? I ask because it only comes on in my car if the driver's seatbelt is undone, but it still has a light in the back seat (above the ashtray) and surely that wouldn't be included unless it was connected to the rear seatbelts?
BradC
Drivers and passengers. There is a spring loaded switch under the passenger seat cushion so it is only supposed to come on if there is sufficient weight on the seat and the belt not plugged in. As the seats sag over the years they tend to go off on their own. I always unplug it.
None in the rear seats.
240
The driver's one in my car tends to go off on its own which is explained by the sagging seats. The passenger's one doesn't work at all so I guess someone has unplugged it.
I wonder why they have a light in the back then ...
BradC
To remind the people in the back to belt up....
Vee_Que
I personally would never put a sensor in a drain plug, two reasons, when you hit it over something you risk losing the sump, and it also only sees return oil temp, not active temp.
BradC
Yeah, you bring that up every time I mention the sensor in the drain plug.
A) You can decapitate the sensor and not lose any oil. It's built that way.
B) The sump temp is the temperature of the oil being picked up by the oil pump and is close enough to the working temperature of the oil to be useful. Ideally the best place to measure temperature is the oil *leaving* the bearings, but without strategically placed thermocouples inside the sump that's pretty damn hard. The sump plug is easy, and oddly enough the way Volvo did it.
familyman
Years ago someone (on turbobricks maybe) started selling senders drilled into sump plugs. It may not lose oil, but *I* would probably wind up sheering it off, LOL.
The difference in the location for tapping the temp... aren't gauges an estimate at best anyway? What I mean is, you fit one - in the 'wrong' place - then from normal daily driving you get used to the typical range the gauge travels. So isn't the idea you when you see the temp going way out of that normal range, you can now do something about it, when before you had no idea - more than how accurate it is? (I'm not contradicting - I'm genuinely asking.)
BradC
Senders for cars don't particularly have a great absolute accuracy, so it's pretty relative anyway.
240
Yep, that makes sense. I guess gauges can be installed to look good as much as for their functionality, too.
Just another question - I mentioned that I was sent the wrong spark plug leads (the ones I got were too short).
I got an email back from the parts place and they said that they checked the part number and it should be compatible with my car. Their only excuse was that their parts are all for LHD cars so it could be different for RHD ones.
As far as I can see, this is rubbish - why should the leads be different lengths depending on which side the steering wheel's on?
The only reason why I can see, is if the leads I was sent are for cars that have the distributor near the firewall - whereas mine has it on the block. Would that most likely be the case?
Does anyone happen to know the part number for the correct Bougicord spark plug leads?
jamesinc
All 240s have the same length leads. Period. Some early ones will need a different length lead to the coil as the coil will be on the exhaust side behind the strut tower, but other than that they're all the same.
240
That's interesting... maybe the ones on the car currently are incorrect then ... although the new ones only just reached plug #4 when I tried... maybe I'll have another try.
In any case, if anyone can give me the correct part number for the Bougicord leads that would be great.
DCW242
I recently fitted new bosch leads to my 240, the one for the 4th cylinder is longer, and fits really well.
familyman
I read what Duncan said, had a particular thought, scrolled up to James's comment... and he'd already said it.
I pulled the (factory original) leads off a 240 and they were all the same length. And a couple of years ago, Supercheap looked up (single) leads for an' 85 240 in their bosch book for me - and all four were the same part number. I just went out to my car for the third time for SOMEONE tonight, who shall remain nameless, LOL. All are the same length. Obviously not a big issue either way though. The extra 'loosness' gets taken up by snaking through those little white nylon clips, etc.
The leads on my car (also original - you know why) have "Bougicord 403 Class C" on them in white, "90-24" stamped in yellow, also a very small "001" in white. The same thing printed on all five leads. I didn't want to get covered in grease, so I didn't remove the leads. But I did run a tape measure along one for you. [Edit: Measurements are in my post below.]
familyman
Hm... I think the "90-24" stamped in yellow might be from Volvo... (90-24 = 1990 240!?) You might also want to read here:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=257995
(A guy there basically says unless the leads have a fault, don't change them.)
Slowbrick
The first three are the same/similar length depending on the manufacturer but the last one is not the same, it is longer. If the front lead was the same length as the rear lead then you would end up with alot of slack lead just hanging around. Also the new Bosch leads are rubbish. They used to be good but they are rubbish these days. Top Gun leads are also rubbish. Bougicord and the IPD leads are the way to go but remember with the IPD leads you can only use them with non resistor plugs.
Vee_Que
That guy is wrong familyman. Leads gain resistance with age, as a general rule you change them every 100,000km, or 5 years.
jamesinc
If you want to be a badass use these
http://www.eagleproducts.com.au/products_8_ultra_hd.php they'll make them to spec for you.
