My 1992 240 sedan...

240 · 2015-09-14T12:17:29+00:00

Another question - my car doesn't have an electric antenna, but I may have the opportunity to get one. Will the wiring already be in place in my car (meaning...

familyman

Now I know why I couldn't read it. I was on the last page, and there wasn't enough of the cct to read, LOL.

I cleaned it up, removed the interior light delay relay circuit. Added some info to make it easier to decipher, if anyone's interested:

Or this is the simplified cct:

So if the wire on Pin 1 falls off, it's an earth. So it would only be connecting an earth to another earth anyway. Nothing happens.

If Pin 2 disconnects instead, it comes from the battery, fuse, and bulb. So it will complete the cct (dotted line) - and 'only' light the bulb as @240 said.

BUT... here's a surprise, for some of us anyway. Something was bugging me. So I went out to my car and pulled a door switch. As I loosed the screw, the interior light flickered and went out. If my suspicions were right, there would only be ONE wire on the back. And there was.

So it seems the metal plate of the switch - that the screw goes through - IS pin 1! So I don't what location/wires I'm thinking of, that you pull on one wire to retrieve the other one. Nor do I know why 240's interior light isn't working. Maybe it's just rust - a poor connection - or a dirty switch. i.e. There probably isn't a second wire to find! Look at the spare spade terminal on the switch - does it have scratches on it, where a female terminal has been pushed on/off? I bet it doesn't.

No idea why mine blew a fuse then...

In case I've made this sound perfectly 'safe' - it doesn't change the fact a loose/moving wire (Pin 2 in my pic) can create sparks. :-$

240

Interesting. And thanks for the wiring diagrams, I think I understand how it works more, now. When I get a chance, I'll have a play around, and see if I can get it to work. If it is indeed the case that the switch only needs one wire, then I'll try my spare switch. Although, why would they bother manufacturing them with two plugs, if that was the case? Or is one of the pins meant to be earthed? (Sorry if that was already answered - I only read through the replies quickly).

BradC

Some cars (like the 240 drivers door with the time delay relay) and the 7/9 series use both contacts. The 7/9 use one contact for the dome light and the second for the marker light in the edge of the door. It would make sense to consolidate and just use one part number. The other explanation is someone has previously replaced your switch with a later model part sometime in the past.

When I used the FCP supplied generic replacements in the 740 I had to clip the end of the plunger, otherwise every time I closed the door it pushed it so far as to blow the back off the switch. The genuine Volvo item is a quantifiably higher quality product.

BradC

To go back to your original point, short the wire to the chassis and see if the light comes on. If not then your problem lies elsewhere :)

Vee_Que

240;60511 wroteThanks for that. Out of interest, why do you choose to do it running? And do you put degreaser on while it's running, or before?

I'll have a look at the throttle.

Also, when I open the back left door, the interior light doesn't come on. Assuming a bad switch, I found a spare one but when I removed the old one I found that the problem was just that one of the wires had come off (see following picture). But the thing is - how am I to fish the other wire out from inside the body of the car to reconnect it?

I leave it running, that way if it gets wet you have an idea of where you got wet. Even if you were careful to aviod electrics. I have washed thousands of vehicles engines and it hasn't done me wrong. Just be very careful with the amm area too.

240

Vee_Que;60587 wrote
I leave it running, that way if it gets wet you have an idea of where you got wet. Even if you were careful to aviod electrics.

What do you mean by "if it gets wet? What is "it" - the engine electrics?
And how does having the engine running let you know which bit you got wet?

Thanks for all the adivce everyone on the interior light - when I resolve it I'll post to let you know what it was.

240

Also: the discovery was made yesterday that my engine has a 531 head, rather than (I think??) the 'standard' 530 head.
Does this mean I have a B230FX, or is it still just a B230F? How does one tell?
What cam will I have?

jamesinc

Probably an FX. It should be written on the timing belt cover. VX or VX3 cam. Congratulations you have like the nicest red block variant.

240

Well that's good news! I'll have a look on the timing belt cover when I get a chance. (Will the engine type - ie F or FX - be there, or just the cam?)
I read somewhere that the B23E or B230E (can't remember) was the fastest, because of compression etc - will mine be faster than one of them?

Vee_Que

Fast is relative, they are all under 70rwkws, the later motor doesn't feel as powerful. But only due to cam more than anything else..

When you spray past an area and it stuttors, you will know you got it wet! Simple.

240

Ah, of course.

Now, back to the issue of the interior light door switches:
I took off the switch for the other back door this afternoon; indeed, it only had one wire coming off it. However, when I put it back in the car, it started giving me the same problem as I originally had with the other door - the light didn't come on!
I went back to the door that originally had the issue, and tried touching the pin without a wire to the body of the car. Once I fiddled around a bit and found an unpainted bit, the light came on. But with the switch just sitting normally as it should, the light doesn't come on.
Now, I should really go back and read the earlier posts in this thread which may answer this - but where do I go from here?
Out of curiosity, I went to the front passenger door to remove the switch and see how it was hooked up. As soon as I started undoing the bolt, the light went out - but when I did it back up, the light came back on. So now I'm also confused as to how the switch is physically configured in the car!

familyman

It's just a poor connection/s somewhere. The metal bit the screw goes through is the switch ground. As soon as you loosen the screw, ground is being removed, so the light goes off. It's not coming back on due to dirt/rust/grease. Pull each wire off. If it's terminal comes off easily, close it up again gently - just a little - with pliers. Push the terminal on and off a few times (and/or clean the switch metal) to get a good contact. Screw back on. Should work. You could buy that CRC switch/electrical contact spray I mentioned before and squirt some in the switch. Could be the switch itself, but pretty rare. If you have a multimeter, put one probe on the metal plate bit, the other on the terminal pin - and push switch in/out to check continuity.

240

Ah, OK then. I'll have another look at some stage and just make sure everything's connected as it should be.

240

Anyone know where a genuine oil vent box can be purchased online? Apparently the aftermarket ones are no good but I can't find any genuine ones.

lasercowboy

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/7067/101936-oil-separator-box

EDIT: actually, that might only be for earlier models..

240

Thought I'd looked on IPD but obviously I hadn't... thanks!

lasercowboy

if that is the older one, the newer model one is here - check your part #

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/60732/Oil-Trap-Breather-Box-3501160G/

If you do end up getting it from eeuroparts, let me know how terrifying the postage is - I want some stuff from them, and may pay dividends to split postage cost!

240

I also read something about there being an o-ring underneath it... will that be included with it?

lasercowboy

nah you buy that separately:

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/47707/Oil-Trap-O-Ring-0917761/

240

Got it.
Wow, postage is expensive - $41 USD!

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