My 1992 240 sedan...

240 · 2015-09-14T12:17:29+00:00

Another question - my car doesn't have an electric antenna, but I may have the opportunity to get one. Will the wiring already be in place in my car (meaning...

240

Has anyone ever used this with an M46 or M47?

https://www.nulon.com.au/products/specialty-products/manual-gearbox-and-diff-treatment

240

Thinking of replacing the crank angle sensor as preventative maintenance, is there any difference in quality between Bougicord and genuine Volvo?

carnut222

240;c-139842 wroteThinking of replacing the crank angle sensor as preventative maintenance, is there any difference in quality between Bougicord and genuine Volvo?

Should be fine. I think Bougicord made some of the OE plug wires for Volvo in the past. At least it's a name brand. I saw crank sensors for sale on Alibaba or AliExpress for something like $5 each, but who knows about that quality! :)

240

Yeah I know Bougicord are OEM for the spark plug wires so I assumed it would be the same for this.

Ex850R

Bougicord make magic wires!
A Whiteblock certainly goes better with them!

240

@jamesinc you posted a photo a few months ago of an air filter from a car with stuffed valve stem seals, it was covered in oil etc.

I changed my filter today, here's what it looks like. I don't think it's the same as yours as it seems more like soot/carbon... Is it anything to worry about?

carnut222

With respect to the filter, which is the top and bottom? Sometimes you see a black spot near the bottom where the hot air inlet from the exhaust manifold comes in. My recommendation in Australia is to remove the hot air pipe, remove the flapper valve, and plug off the hole in the side of the air filter housing where the flapper valve once resided. We don't really get cold enough temps here for that to be required, and the flapper valve can get stuck in the hot air position and cause issues.

familyman

@carnut222 I recently read in the USA they move the end of the metallic tube at the manifold and poke it towards the front of the car as an extra cold air inlet. Is there a reason you blocked it instead?

carnut222

familyman;c-141385 wrote@carnut222 I recently read in the USA they move the end of the metallic tube at the manifold and poke it towards the front of the car as an extra cold air inlet. Is there a reason you blocked it instead?

The regular inlet pipe is as big as the mass airflow meter so I don't think it needs more air, but you could do that. Just a bit messy IMHO and evidence that something's been messed with. You could poke the metal pipe out under the RH side headlight using the existing large hole there. I've also found, depending on the type of heat shielding and heater pipe attachment on the exhaust manifold, you can remove the 4 bolts, remove the heater pipe attachment bit, then re-install the heat shield and it looks neat and no evidence of a pre-heat tube remains.

240

I did that airbox model a couple of years ago so there's no exhaust air entering the airbox whatsoever.

familyman

@240, don't forget to let carnut222 know if the top of the air filter as it is in the photo, was located at the top or bottom of the air filter box.

240

The top of the photo is the top of the filter... but that's irrelevant anyway, because no exhaust air is reaching the airbox.

240

On the previous page, I posted a photo of some oil that was pooling underneath the intake manifold. Servicing the car today I had a closer look and I found a couple of bits of gasket sticking out so it definitely needs a new gasket, which is okay because I do have a spare.
My question is - how concerning is it that there is oil in that part of the manifold at all? I mean, I can understand a little bit, but this is enough for oil to drip under the car when it's parked overnight.

(Before anyone asks, yes the PCV system is perfect - I've replaced or cleaned all components including the breather box and flame trap.)

ramrod

What were the items you cleaned or replaced? The PCV entire system is cheap enough, you might as well replace it. Especially the breather box (if you're keeping the car)

240

Yes I just said that I've replaced the breather box. Along with the flame trap, and I've thoroughly cleaned all the hoses.

alphax

Nice car. Sounds like time to pull the inlet manifold and inspect the inlet ports for oil. No healthy engine should be leaking oil from the inlet ports. That would be a sign of excessively worn guides and valve stems or valve stem seals at minimum.

For most engines I have ever encountered at this stage, regardless of brand, I would assess for cylinder blow-by (crank case pressure while running) and if okay - remove the head for reconditioning. Maybe you can get away with just replacing the valve stem seals, but often when they have aged to the point of dis-integration you might be dealing with other areas of wear also.

ramrod

What's the oil consumption?

240

I probably will pull the manifold to change the gasket anyway, so will have a look then, which I suppose will help narrow it down a bit.
(As an aside, can I just put the new gasket there between the metal surfaces or do I need to apply a sealant as well?)

What's the best way to test crank case pressure? I have read methods of holding a plastic bag or rubber glove over the oil filler hole, I might try that test.

Oil consumption could be better but isn't too bad, it uses probably about 1 litre every 5000 km.

ramrod

That oil consumption is considered normal.

You don't need to put anything on the gaskets, as long as the mating surfaces are clean enough to eat off. Read: Brake cleaner

240

I replaced the manifold gasket today.
It didn't look anywhere near as bad inside the head or manifold as I was expecting. I assume the reason I was getting oil leaking out was just because the gasket was bad enough to let out any oil spray that came near it, and it must have accumulated over time.
But I could be wrong, happy to hear other opinions

(First picture is looking inside the manifold, second pic is looking inside the head, third pic is the old gasket still sitting on the head)

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