240
Having a quick look under the car today, I think the gearbox is actually an AW71, not an AW70.
Were NA 240s ever made with AW71s?
If not, should I assume that the transmission has been replaced at some point?
More importantly, will a gasket and filter for an AW70, fit a 71? Because I have the aforementioned filter & gasket but don't want to get half way through the job and find it doens't fit.
familyman
I think there's an id plate on the left rear of the gearbox. And I enetered your car and a 1994 940 with aw71 into the ipdusa site and they show the same filter and gaskets part numbers.
240
OK thanks for that - I should be safe then.
Yeah the ID plate is where it says that it's an AW71. Which is weird because I thought only 740/940s, and turbo 240s, came with the 71.
Any tips on taking off the dipstick tube bolt? Everything I've read makes it sound literally impossible and I hate getting stuck on something towards the beginning of the job!
Vee_Que
Aw70 and 71 are the same, the "L" model is different shaped.
With the later 240s they did occasionally have the aw71, 93 on all 940s had the lockup auto too.
As iv said before, a big shifter on the nut side and one on the pan side is easiest. Be prepared for oil.
familyman
Maybe you want to remove the tube because it's o-ring is leaking, but if not, wouldn't there be a way to remove with the tube still connected? @Vee_Que i.e. Wouldn't the tube just be bracketed to the engine block somewhere higher up? i.e. Remove a (probably 10mm) bolt, remove pan bolts, rotate/tilt the pan as he lowers it? Maybe will need the car higher off the ground though, to have enough height to do it that way.
I've read some of those posts before. If you do have to remove it I'd make sure to spray with inox and give it a good long wait before attempting. If fact if it were me I'd squirt it a few times each day over 2/3 days before trying. (Though the USA guys do seem to run into problems at times that I wonder about.) I see the mechanic do this with particular cars/bolts. Raises them on the hoist, squirts one bolt with inox, does something else for an hour, sprays again, comes back 20 minutes later and bolt easily comes out. He doesn't do it with every car/bolt, so must be treating particular ones as a problem out of past experience.
240
Apparently the tube is attached to the starter motor and from memory I think there's one bolt that's hard to get to if you want to do it that way. So I'll just keep that in mind as a last resort.
Have you had much luck with Inox as a penetrating oil? I thought it was just a WD-40 alternative and I've not really had a lot of luck with WD for that purpose. Apparently "Kroil" is the stuff to go for, although of course not available in Australia.
I just did a Google search and apparently a 1:1 mix of ATF and acetone makes a great penetrating oil, so I might give that a shot.
timbo
I always drop the sump with the tube connected. If it does strip its way more hassle than just undoing the stater motor
jamesinc
@240 the gasket and filter are compatible if I recall correctly.
I don't know of any 240 receiving an AW71 originally. They were fitted to turbo 740s and the like. It has the same gear ratios as an AW70, but can handle more power (for turbo applications).
familyman
The mechanic I often refer to here, has company reps bringing him new products to try whenever available. Anything that makes his job quicker/easier and so, cheaper for the customer, is his reasoning. So he tries new things and quickly drops old ones if something works better. (e.g. I remember nulon brought a range of stuff out years ago and he used a quite a lot of it to start with. But I think he said customers were regularly coming back. I think he said he found it was doing something to seals that weren't in brilliant condition. He still does use some depending on the circumstances, but pretty sure the main nulon product he still regularly uses is their trade-strength fuel injector cleaner.)
Anyway, he started using inox years ago and as far as I'm aware still hasn't changed. (Haven't seen him for several months though.)
WD40 stands for water dispersant. It drives water out of gaps. I bought several cans of it dirt cheap - rarely used it - eventually resold it in a garage sale. The only use I could find for it was when I degreased an engine. But then I found it quicker to pull the cap, use a tissue/rag, and leave the cap off in the warm air for a few minutes. (Since I only degrease on warm days anyway.)
So I don't know if there's better stuff, but with the ease I've seen him remove bolts, it used to make me think it must not really have been tight in the first place. So I asked him about it. He replied 'it really wicks itself into threads' (or something like that); that he's tried several products but always returns to using it; but the day they bring him something else that works better he'll change.
It's sure not as cheap as I'd like, but it's in a spray can with propellant. So I buy and keep a small can. I've never found a pump bottle that works unless they're over say 80% full - and vertical - AND still work when you need to use them without losing a third of it dripping down your hand when you squeeze the trigger.) Came to realise it was easier to do a quick squirt - at any angle - with something in a small propelled can. But that's just me. ;-)
Vee_Que
As a mechanic, who is also experienced with these autos, you do not need to spray things ten times plus to get them undone. The nut isn't that bad to undo the first few times. But you do need long extensions to easily undo the brack bolts, one is on the starter, the other is slightly higher up.
Honestly, send it to a mechanic workshop if it sounds too hard to you!
240
Sounds like it should be fairly straightforward then.
Will there be any damage to the car if I leave it as is for a couple of weeks? I don't think I'll get a chance to do it until mid-February.
Vee_Que
You may lose drive. But it could be too late already.
240
Damn. Not what I wanted to hear.
240
Did the transmission service today.
The filler tube nut was VERY difficult to get off but it came off in the end. The filter wasn't too bad but I had a new one so put it in. There was quite a bit of gunk in the pan though which I cleaned out.
Put it all back together and flushed out another 4 or 5 litres of fluid through the upper cooling line from the radiator.
After a short drive it all seems to work fine so hopefully the box should last a while longer!
Edit:
Maybe I spoke too soon - driving the car today I noticed that it still seems a little hesitant to go into reverse.
So maybe the box is on the way out....
Vee_Que
Any pics of the filter and gunk on the magnet?
240
Sorry. I was trying to get it done in as little timie as possible so forgot about that. Although I'll see if I can find the filter in the bin.
The gunk on the magnet was a sort of grey slimy stuff which looked like it had almost dissolved off the magnet.
The bottom of the pan had a bit of that same gunk on it too, as well as a bit of brown sludgey stuff.
In terms of the oil - everything I drained out was most certainly brown not red, although with the pan and filter off, I could see red oil on the internals of the box, and it all looked quite clean in there.
I also realised though, that in total I only drained and flushed about 7 litres out, but I had to add a total of 8.5 litres back in, so it may have been running with too little oil, too.
240
So a while back I thought that I saw some kind of oil leak of some kind - I thought it might be PS-related but people here were quick to point out that it was definitely engine oil.
After a closer look, I'm fairly sure it's from the oil pressure sender.
I have a brass adapter screwed into the block, and then the sender into that - the thread on the sender is tapered so it should self seal so I'm assuming it's leaking from the thread on the brass adapter.
What should I seal it with?
Vee_Que
Thread tape.
jamesinc
I've had one of those things fail internally and leak oil through where the plastic meets the brass.
Thread tape shouldn't be necessary. Just tighten it down a bit more.
240
From memory I did it fairly tightly the first time, but I'll redo it and hope for the best.
