Iirc you get to drop the subframe
Spac's S40 T4.
I did have a look at this after the questions a few months back. I'm not convinced you can't replace the bushes with the subframe in place - but I guess I'm about to find out...
You can do the bushes without droping it
Just a pita
Sometimes its just easier to support the engine and drop the frame a foot
Just a pita
Sometimes its just easier to support the engine and drop the frame a foot
4 months later
Massively overdue update.
Here's what I found. The rattle that I thought was a strut top was -in hindsight - a buggered swaybar bush. That rattle that I'd been ignoring got much worse when the alloy bracket eventually fatigued and broke.
#slackerarselyf
Replacement was a turd, but I managed to do it without dropping the subframe. My secret weapon is stubbornness - a ring spanner has enough room to make 1/24 turns, and needs to be flipped over between grabs...
I still love this car.
Here's what I found. The rattle that I thought was a strut top was -in hindsight - a buggered swaybar bush. That rattle that I'd been ignoring got much worse when the alloy bracket eventually fatigued and broke.
#slackerarselyf
Replacement was a turd, but I managed to do it without dropping the subframe. My secret weapon is stubbornness - a ring spanner has enough room to make 1/24 turns, and needs to be flipped over between grabs...
I still love this car.
a month later
Hey @Spac , how much boost does your T4 run?
Im trying to help a friend regain some ponies with his phase 1 T4 and we are only getting atvmax 12ish PSI
Im trying to help a friend regain some ponies with his phase 1 T4 and we are only getting atvmax 12ish PSI
12 psi sounds about right. Not may factory volvo setups run more.
Mine only pushes out 12psi. The turbo is getting tired (puff of blue smoke on start up plus the turbo is getting lazy on spool up), but it's never gone higher in the ~60,000kms I've had it for.
4 months later
just got my t2 apart from exhaust sensor needed it goes really well
13 days later
glad i got it now lots of accessory stuff some not so useful lowering kit was good till i loaded half a tonne of bagged coal in the boot yes coal or firewood kinda essential here. side skirts and rear spoiler t4 without being a t4 official volvo detachable towbar that doesnt detach even thoygh i have the bl
blanking panel that goes in irs place just need factory radio and plastics for dash centre flash sound system but sadly gaps in dash region annd a hazard light switch which had to be jammed in the off position
Update.
Tired turbo is now very tired - becoming embarrassing.
Rear shocks got very bouncy. Replaced with a set of Fox coilovers that I bought off a Lancer page for $200. Much better. Interestingly, the slight jiggle in the steering that has always been a feature of this car, has now gone.
Over 250,000km now. Recently discovered that it only takes a very slight change in driving style to get fuel consumption down to ~7.7 litres per 100km (noting that my daily commute is 85% 100kph zone).
Tired turbo is now very tired - becoming embarrassing.
Rear shocks got very bouncy. Replaced with a set of Fox coilovers that I bought off a Lancer page for $200. Much better. Interestingly, the slight jiggle in the steering that has always been a feature of this car, has now gone.
Over 250,000km now. Recently discovered that it only takes a very slight change in driving style to get fuel consumption down to ~7.7 litres per 100km (noting that my daily commute is 85% 100kph zone).
Tell me your secrets. I'm averaging near enough 10's and I'm not even a hoon :'(
My thoughts have always been to get it into the highest gear possible, as quickly as possible, and just rely on what ever torque it has off boost to pull me along, But I've often wondered by the relationship of peddle depression to RPM. I.e, 1/4 peddle, 3k rpm, vs half peddle and 2krm. Assuming road speed is the same. What is more fuel efficient?
Place bets now!
My thoughts have always been to get it into the highest gear possible, as quickly as possible, and just rely on what ever torque it has off boost to pull me along, But I've often wondered by the relationship of peddle depression to RPM. I.e, 1/4 peddle, 3k rpm, vs half peddle and 2krm. Assuming road speed is the same. What is more fuel efficient?
Place bets now!
I spent about a week watching the instantaneous fuel consumption gauge more carefully than I should.
My main observations:
ANY sort of acceleration in the first three gears has it pinned at its 25.5l/100km maximum. This pretty much makes good city fuel consumption impossible.
Rolling the throttle on and off at the right time gives a noticeable improvement. Mostly rolling off just before the tops of hills, coasting down and rolling on early before the next hill seems to work best.
It uses 1.4l/hour at idle but 0.1 or 0.0 while using engine braking. So now I use engine braking more.
My main observations:
ANY sort of acceleration in the first three gears has it pinned at its 25.5l/100km maximum. This pretty much makes good city fuel consumption impossible.
Rolling the throttle on and off at the right time gives a noticeable improvement. Mostly rolling off just before the tops of hills, coasting down and rolling on early before the next hill seems to work best.
It uses 1.4l/hour at idle but 0.1 or 0.0 while using engine braking. So now I use engine braking more.
Ah, Well I wont feel so band considering I'm averaging that too and from work within city traffic.