Looking for a non rusty fuel tank, for a carby car.
I'm guessing there's no one on here who has one, but i figured id give it a try before buying a fuel tank repair kit for the current tank i have.
thanks.
164 fuel tank Sydney
Rory What year model 164?
For a 74, you can use a later model 240 tank with a lift pump and swirl pot.
For pre-74, you're better off using an EFI (D-Jet) tank if you can find a good one (the internal plumbing pipes are slightly larger). Unfortunately there's no reproduction pre-74 140/164 tanks around, but US people have adapted '63 Mustang tanks to fit.
I have a complete 1974 164E (not driving) you can have for $750
Yeah ok, its a pre-74, i havent actually checked the year model yet tho. Maybe a 69'?
Solution doesnt have to be glorious, its a rust bucket thats been sitting in a field for 20 years. Managed to get it to run off a jerry can and move it out of the small swamp it was sitting in.
Figured the first step to making it a roadworthy beater car is sorting out fuel supply. Havent removed the old tank yet.
Any expirience with the tank repair kits? Might be good, would mean id have a restored tank once the 164 finally dies that can be used on a different car.
I've got a parts car 164E aswell as a parts car 144 1974. Not sure the condition of the tanks. I assume at this age they would all be similar.
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Rory Any expirience with the tank repair kits?
I take my old and suspect fuel tanks to my local radiator man and let him work his magic. So.... not exactly. (It's what I'll be doing for the old 164E tank which I want to put into my 144).
The pre-74 tank is held in the bottom of the boot by a number of small Philips self-tapping screws and a mess of sealing putty.
If your tank is not banged up, it might be worth reconditioning it if you can't find a replacement.
Also note there's two plugs in the bottom of the tank; the smaller one is the drain plug. The larger one with the big square plug is for the in-tank filter. These were an item that were checked by dealers at service intervals, but have been often ignored by non-Volvo specialist shops for the last 40 years. So you may need to R&R the filter (or what's left of it). VP Auto stocks replacement tank filters, as well as the plug (which is a total mongrel to remove).
Yeah ok thanks for your help. Maybe i can try and hookup a jerry can in the boot with the fuel pump. Saves me fiddling around with the tank just yet, and its 100x better then running the car off a gravity fed jerry can in the engine bay.
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Thinking of just buying some generic cone air filters for each carby since i dont have the oem setup. Full ricer style
.
Possibly collapsed rear suspension too. Havent investigated yet.
I think its a repco rebuilt block, painted blue.
Has rust starting to form at pretty much every point these rust from. None of it is catestrophic yet.
Plan is to get it going and enjoy it as a beater daily.
I was looking at repairing a rusty tank myself in my Benz 300E, found out how much bullshit was involved, bit the bullet and had it Redi Stripped at Redi Strip Blacktown. It was the only way I'd know all the rust, petrol "lacquer" and moisture out. Gentle on the brazed welds and the plastic swirl pot.
It'll cost you though…… $300 last year.
I used to own that car! Before me @Spac.
I never did much with it, brought it to be a future project but existing projects drag on so long I gave up on getting to it and sold it.
Looking under the oil cap there is a lot of sludge. Amongst the deal from Spac, I got a spare engine from him, which I still have kicking around and keen to move along.
I think I may have a few other odds and ends as well. I am in the Hawkesbury if you are interested.
Air filter box was in the boot when I sold it
Oh woah, amazing this car exists still. Been in quite a state for a long time.
Did you ever test the engine for compression? figured id just go at it, turns over and it runs on a couple cylinders.
Ill have a look in the boot for the filters, thanks for the heads up, havent dug around too much in it, interior is in a similar state to the exterior, not the nicest place to be.
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Rory I don't remember if I ever did a compression test or not. I did get it running smoothly on all cylinders and driving around under its own power. I put a rebuild kit through the carbies.
Looks like I may have sold it late 2016, after owning it for maybe 5 years.
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Yeah ok, ill keep in mind your engine offer. Not too familiar with the b30 variants. Is it a early model engine? Not sure if b30 variants carry same prefixs as the b20s. I.e. B20A, B20E e.c.t
If i manage to get it going its been sitting outside for so long it doesnt have much time left. No use doing an engine swap if i dont need to. Surely a bit of sludge cant kill a b30!
Rory I believe it is a b30e. It has holes in the head for EFI injectors. From my understanding they flow better than the carburettor heads, so can be used as an upgrade by blocking the EFI injectors holes.
B30 summary?
FWIW, there were 3 designations for the car/truck B30 - B30A, with twin Strombergs or twin SUs depending on market, or B30E (high compression)/ B30F (low compression for ULP), with D-Jet EFI (no K-Jet on B30s). The marine versions were the AQ170 series.
1974+ engines used an 8-bolt crank; pre-74 used a 6-bolt crank.
B30A had a C cam. B30E & F had K cams. Valves and springs are the same sizes as B20E, as are pistons and rods.
Oil pump, flywheel, and bellhousing are different to B20.
When they inevitably failed, the crappy fibre timing gears were often replaced with the Penta engine's steel timing gears, which never wear out or break. The gears are the same as the B20's; the B30 timing case fits on a B20 but not sure if it works the other way around (IIRC the B30 cover has one extra bolt hole).
Miracle Felt Oil Seals (so called, because it was a miracle if they sealed in any oil!) were used in the timing cover and crank rear main until 1974, at which time they got proper neoprene seals.
These engines are heavy muthas - in the region of 550 lb dry, without transmission.