144 brake booster delete

jrhendo

I might have posted something similar to this ages ago but I’m still thinking about it.

Has anybody done this? On my 1974 rally car, the cross bar and booster weigh about 7kg. Not to be sneezed at if I can delete.

My idea is to fit a plate to go where the brake lever goes through the firewall, using the existing 4 bolt holes. Then bolt a master cylinder to that and plumb it up. Probably use a LHD master cylinder so that the outlets go away from the engine. I may need to change the pedal ratio to be more like 6:1 but I haven’t looked at that yet.

Thoughts?

arebee

I have a 122S rally car that uses virtually the same braking system (1800E disc brakes front and rear) split front to rear as opposed to the usual 'L' split plumbing, with an adjustable pressure valve to the rear…

I don't have a power booster setup, and whilst the brake pedal requires a solid push, they work well. Now the 122 will be slightly lighter than a 140, it should still work.

Cheers.

jrhendo

I also have mine split F and R with a bias valve to rear. I’m using a 240 stepped master cylinder, 22ish-mm being the bigger end. I’m encouraged: thanks! I’ll give it a go when I get my car back in Australia.

arebee

The master cylinder that I am using is the standard type of dual master cylinder fitted to US 120 series cars during the later production. Not sure what the bore diameter is.