• RWD
  • 88 Volvo 240 Wagon 1UZFE

Gday all,

Thought i'd put a post up of the volvo we've just built over the last few weekends in the shed!

The car started off when I bought it super cheap with rego from some herb farm out in the sticks with a "blown auto trans" with plans to straight away do an engine conversion. I was thinking 2JZ at the time as I have one in my R32 and it is brilliant but when my mate offered me this 1UZ super cheap I couldn't say no and after watching vids of LOLVO thought it was a great idea..
The blown auto turned out to be a split tranny cooler pipe so we dodged it up, cut the springs and drove it around for 6 months as a bit of a pub bus with the seven seater haha. After wards it got a hydro handbrake and a heap of rear tyre pressure for some sliding around my mates land and it was great fun, these things have got heaps of lock stock!

Anyway a few weekends ago we pulled the ol' faithful B230F out and installed a 1UZFE and 4 speed auto from a Lexus LS400 Celsior.
Wish I'd have taken more photos of our build to post up now!

Build details as I have pretty much no photos:

We used the stock front sump from the celsior and decided to sit the engine a little further forward to save drastic modifications, as a result of this the engine mounts were not going to work off the cross member and would probably be a little flimsy anyway. We left the cross member alone and my mate Ben that doubles as a damn good fabricator welded some big duty box mounts straight to the chassis rails, despite this probably being enough we then strengthened them by welding plates into the strut towers and running some solid bar from the mounts to strut towers. Rubbers were V8 landrover mounts as they are super simple and we have used them before in conversions with good success.
This got the motor sitting in place and we installed some block hugger manifolds that fit OK although the exit pipe on the drivers side was hard up against the rubber part of the steering column, we removed the column and cut the bulky section out and replaced it with straight tube of the same size.
Ben then modified the stock auto gearbox cross member by cutting out the middle pointed section and welding back in some flat bar steel that came forward about 150mm, we then drilled out the flat bar to accept the 4 studs from the factory lexus auto rubber mount.
Once the box was mounted we cut the volvo tailshaft just forward of the centre bearing and welded the lexus front half on accordingly and bolted on to the box and back to the diff.
Biggest issue with using the lexus auto was the shifter linkage was on the drivers side rather than the volvos passenger side links - we removed the stock shifter and modified it to point out the drivers side (a lot harder than it sounds) cut up the lexus linkage from shifter to box and welded it to the right length/angle. A custom array of bolt and nuts was used to fix it all together and allow pivoting. It works well for now but for whatever reason it wont click into low gear which we will suss out later.
The wiring was surprisingly easy, the Toyota/Lexus loom only requires power to a few points to power the loom and sensors. Once it cranked and fired I wired the alternator up and connected to the volvo charge light, then connected the oil sensor to the volvo light and the water temp gauge as well - it works OK just reads high at operating temp - eventually ill go aftermarket or weld the factory volvo in a pipe between the top rad hose or something!
The exhaust was 2 and a quarter from the manifolds back running right back through the gear box cross member (it has cutout U sections like it was meant to be) then 2 into 1 connecting back to the last two volvo mufflers at the diff. We spent a while getting it tucked right up as the wagon sits on mudflaps because ben cut out too many coils... but with a small pipe diameter and the factory mufflers at the back its super quiet and will be good for surprising falcodores :p
We then moved the factory radiator back about 75mm by bolting in some alloy U brackets with some rubber insulation to the lower support and cutting out a part of the top rad support tray thing, as this sat the radiator higher we had to modify the factory volvo top supports as well. To finish off cooling we got some new rad hoses and stretched them onto the 1UZ (the outlets are slightly bigger) and installed a 15" thermo on the engine side of the rad. Heater hoses hooked up very easily as well (1uz is straight off the back of the heads) We used the volvo header tank with some fresh hoses.
We had our hydraulics guy come by and wack together a line from PS pump on the 1UZ to feed fitting on the volvo rack - as the 1U pump sits just above the rack it was only short, the factory return or low pressure line squeezed straight onto the 1U reservoir!
Intake pipe is a simple 90 to 3" pipe with IACV fitting then AFM and pod sitting down behind the DS headlight.

I'm sure there is more that i will add later and feel free to ask any questions!

We welded the diff for some strength and better skids and road tested it a few days ago - we've done a good 5 or 600 ks and it drives factory - very happy with it! nice and fast!

Will put pics up ASAP.
Pic when we towed it home


First Drive (stock)


Chop springs


Looks like this now..
Conversion pics (not sure if the pics are working yet)

B230F in


out


1UZ sitting loosely sump on cross member


Mount fab



Fuel pump install (also ran new feed line up to the motor)


Getting there


First Drive


All done
fixing pics for you.... gimme a minute......done.

And moved to RWD section
Think pics are sorted, cheers as well Rob. Reallllly new to this site haha. will also update when I can - can take some crappy pics of certain things at request if people are interested too haha.
no probs. cool project btw.
Wow. So much writing! Is it going to be engineerable with the mounts on the body not the crossmember (that's how I read it? Oh the radiator was moved forwards in the engine bay!

Thought about putting some dvs/king springs in it so it will get traction? Or is it just a skid/burnout car And has to be low?

I'd love to put a 1uz into my 760, manual, megasquirt, mounted on the crossmember. Wouldn't be a skid car with a welded diff.

What sump would it need to sit right in the car? I always forget to ask the guy with the 1uz powered 242, he only made 130rwkw with a manual Originally on a stock tune. what would this make?

What did you change the pump on it to? Stock one is good for over 200wkws on turbo volvo motors, let alone turbo volvo pumps, or are there plans to put a turbo on?
Damn that's a tight fit, I thought the LS was hard work. Epic achievement, good work!
Hell yeah for more FRANKENSTEIN MONSTER BUILDS!!!
Doubt its engineerable spec, wasn't on the cards with the build - if it gets really defected I'll consider reshelling it into my other wagon to spec and getting a blue plate.

Definitely something I want to look into and a big reason for me getting on here is to get an idea on what everyone is doing with suspension (the choppies suck in the back and bring so many bumps and rattles to the car haha), diff mounts and sway bars etc, I also want to find out what the cheap easy mods are - what bolts on from other cars and things like that (seats, wheels, suspension spoilers etc) - I've seen a few with those GLE gauges and stuff like that which would be pretty sweet! We will modify the LCAs and steering components for crazy lock and some negative camber but we'd also like to suss out modifying the diff mounts to correct pinion angle and possibly make an adjustable pan hard rod etc. Keen to hear peoples opinions and experiences there too? We want to raise it back up a fair bit but would like to keep it stiff as well, we want to keep it original spec for more surprise when it goes flying past all the chev badged commis, it will also help with the police attention!

I used the front bowl sump the celsiors come with - the soarers come with a rear bowl sump which may suit the 7series better but no experience there sorry, a lot of guys mount it closer to the firewall than we have but have to modify the sump wether front or rear bowl. Rear bowl allows a little less modification required due to the 240 rack and sway bar being at the front of the cross member.

Power wise I don't know - Ben will probably run it on the Tafe dyno we have down here but I've seen a lot of stock ones with intake and exhaust make ~170kw. Either way it has plenty enough torque and is as fast as my mates VR SS commodore easy! Manual is very tricky with the 1uz as they never came factory - meaning flywheel, bellhousing clutch etc is all custom stuff, we were happy with the auto for now and may manualise the auto at some point!

The fuel pump was swapped simply because the stock volvo one ran some weird hard plastic line from the pump to a fixed fitting at the motor, I had a Bosch 070 sitting about so decided to plumb that in making it heaps easier just to run fresh fuel line the whole way to the motor, we also put in a fresh bosch filter at the same time. Eventually we will run some sort of forced induction - the only issue being clearance in the bay, supercharger would be easiest or we may run twin turbos (something small like TD05s) This is an early 1UZ which had the bigger rods etc so take a good bit of power with some steel headgaskets and more fuel!

Thanks SirNemesis and Tree its heaps of fun and makes the all nighters worth it :p
Mad build!
Not to Hijack, but Ive got a 1UZFE to W58 Adapter plate for sale, Hydraulic throwout bearing, lines and bleeder setup available if interested? I bought them for my T5 build but decided to go a different route - Would be perfect if you were pining for a 3rd pedal :)

Thanks Julian but I'm going to stick with the auto for now! PM me a price though as a few of my mates play around with these a bit and may be interested!
Couple of vids:

First fire with nothing hooked up:


Running before we finished the mufflers and a few other bits:
i always wanted to put a 1uzfe in a 240 wagon good to see someone do it hows it go with the v8 I'm keen to do something like this one day
On suspension, you can buy everything you need from http://www.kaplhenke.com/ but it's not cheap, it is high qaulity however. DVS.net.au also supply parts as needed to make a 240 handle very well locally. But for the most part people stick DVS Spec king springs on the front, with king spring lows rears and bilstiens and it handles well, DVS can do coilover spec stuff too if needed.
Thanks Vee_Que! What sort of things are people doing with sway bars? Does a larger rear sway bar give them an oversteery feel and is it crap or still handles OK?

Pikey - it goes pretty well mate - they deliver a fair bit of torque these motors, and they love revving!
Im running a 27mm falcon bar up front and a 23mm GT bar on the rear, Apart from being as high as an xc90 and running stock shocks she handles so much better than before

The ford bar will run you a tops of $25 and a bit of cutting on the ford bushing... 100% worth it
Sweet, thanks!! I'll need to modify the front one slightly to clear the sump but will keep an eye out for a falcon bar, anything cheap and easy to get a hold of for the rear? Any major improvements noticed in going to aftermarket shocks at all? The stock items seem pretty well built.
Going to konis or Bilsteins are the best bet. Stock is sach which are good for original, but stock springs are soooooft. Once you put in stiffer springs, you less likely need a heavier sway bar, but there has been ipd ones at 25mm brought in the country.
Regarding getting the thing to handle, which approach to take is really dependent on your intended application.
Standard volvo spring rates on 2 and 7/9 are quite soft and by now the cars are all quite well worn.

We do both coilover and regular spring solutions for the 240 series and can make some recommendations depending on what you want to do with it.

There are lots of available factory swaybar sizes, though some are getting harder to come by now and there is the EL front swaybar (24mm, 26mm and 27mm) that is an almost-bolt in that's been mentioned already.

Sachs shocks will be fine for lowered springs with conservative(ish) rates, the higher you go with spring rate, the more seriously you'll need to conisder controlling it.

If you want to have a specific discussion about what to do with yours, drop me an email.



If you were to get the IPD bars brought into aus yourself, theyd cost you an absolute fortune, The Ford falcon EL bar is such good value I legitimately wouldnt waste your time with IPD

As for the rear... 242 GT Rear bars do pop up every now and then, mine is the thicker 23mm version and for the price it was hard to beat
I have a 25mm IPD rear bar left!!
2 months later
Bit of an update, the old blue shell had a small off over a culvert drain on a rainy gravel road at night (genuinely unrelated to skids and or the v8) and punched the front drivers side wheel up through the firewall and a bent a fair bit of chassis + snapped all the arms/balljoints etc.

SO I've had another white 240 wagon (also an 88) which was mint untouched and we went to town re-shelling the motor again, pulled the b230f and box out, swapped the locked diff, shifter, exhaust, radiator, gearbox xmember, fuel setup, power steer lines and tailshaft over, then dropped the motor in, welded new mounts in again, wired it up and we're away! only took one coil out of the suspension this time so its nice and grandpa spec for the moment. Here is some pics showing the finished car and a couple of the engine mounts as well.

Motor out


Driveway full of volvo motors


Mounts




All freshly washed




Engine bay (still dirty at the moment)





Have an entire 240 wagon to wreck minus diff and two good b230f/box for sale if anyone in tas is after anything!!
Where in tas are you? Keen to have a look at this as it's something I've considered doing with the gt...
@volvodriverman I'm in Kingston just south of Hobart, more than happy for you to have a look!
5 months later
No real updates on the new white one, have done a heap of Ks with no issues now, such a good tow bus - have loaded it up massively with construction timber, scrap metal runs, cobbers, everything and not a single issue. It's been halfway around the state and still no shudders or engine issues at high speed. No police issues just a few upset commodore owners... haha. A lot of mates have been in or driven it and agree the thing drives like factory except the welded diff, would love to go to a nice locking LSD eventually but its all cash and time I don't have at the moment! Have a bit of a chance right now to tidy up a few things that have been pestering me since the reshell/build;

Need to modify a sway bar and brackets to bolt back on to the front to get rid of a little turn in slop, thinking about spacing it down slightly to clear the 1UZ sump or getting a falcon bar similar to what @SirNemesis used to clear his LS (really similar front sump bowl clearance issue)
Random power steer leak from the pump
Rocker cover gaskets
A combination of the modified volvo shifter and lexus selector on the gearbox is not allowing manual selection of the 1/L gear, think I need to dremel the plastic shifter stepping mechanism and bend a few things underneath to sort that out.
A few of the exhaust welds (there is lots of them to craft two pipes around the box and right back through the tunnel) have pin hole leaks that we'd like to pull back out and touch up - easy to identify now with little carbon patches!
Just generally tidying things up, once I'm super happy with it we are all keen to sneak a turbo or two onto it, low boost with stock fuelling wound up with an aftermarket reg, should really get the old brick moving - not that its slow at the moment!

We've been playing with 240s a lot lately, my house mate picked up a cheap stock 92 or 93 wagon as well that we are tidying up and may look at turboing the b230fx in it later


And my pop has picked up this project 86 240 sedan which is factory manual!


Finally today in my v8 Volv I have all of the stock gauges working after building a tacho booster as per this link (http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/22574-How-To-Tacho-Booster/page2)
Also adjusted the TPS up to cruise better on decel + better response at <5% throttle
Really chuffed that I can see this thing revvvvv now;


Hope to keep some more updates and pics coming as I add things, and as always keen for suggestions on normal volvo upgrades - Sway bar, diff centres, better seats, interior/electrics etc.

Also if anyone has any Virgos (will look at other factory volvo alloys) and or GLE gauges to sell I'm keen to hear from you (prefer in tas) - Cheers!
I've got some Virgos here but I'm in VIC
Looks mint mate :) love your work!
Keen for a turbo on it too.
Cheers mate!

@SirNemesis PM me what you're after?
I've got virgos but i ain't parting with them!
How did those springs go by the way?
Hey @carnut1100 - springs worked a treat and pops sedan is regoed now! Cheers for that!
Good job! You get on with it and just make it work , you should make a TV show!
I would use pipe where you used bar from cross member to strut tower , much stronger and lighter , see if you can fit a strut crossbrace as well.
Ash can certainly help with suspension design , he is the Guru!
Good to see some more modified 240s around Hobart.
Cheers @Ex850R we've laughed about it before, this isn't the first stupid conversion we've done.. we're known to work ridiculously long hours and go to some crazy effort to get things working, having a couple of good mechanical and engineering minded cobbers that work hard on things helps too haha. Once I've got the sway sorted in the front we likely will build something between the strut tops. Still tossing up whether to go our own way and bolt in S13/14 front coils and steering then modify the rear basically or to shell out and buy off the shelf... time, bank balance and addition of forced induction likely to tell!

Yeah @GingerNinja they are sweet cars, so much potential and bang for buck in factory spec.

I gave the old girl some more loving today, did the crappier side rocker cover gasket (one with the TB, Brake booster/MC/lines, power steering etc in the way) ended up having to replace a few cracked hoses and gaskets on the throttle body and seems OK so far.
Patched up the power steer leak, turns out it was the Idle up air valve on the pump - it was faulty when i first got the motor running and we blocked it off on the end of the valve but has started leaking so got a matching thread cap/bolt to fill the thread + some heavy thread sealant.
While I was under it I found some issues with trans cooler line to exhaust clearance and as we were beginning to plan to pull the exhaust off to fix some small leaks we thought bugger it and pulled the whole system off from manifolds back (painful job.. only just packed up tools and RIP knuckles) which will go up to my mates place that did the fabrication this weekend for a tidy up, while he has that I'm going to bend up some new trans cooler line and run it nice and tightly around the box and well clear of the exhaust.
With everything out of the way around the bottom of the trans I'll sort out the shifter movement to select L/1 as well hopefully.
Starting to look out for an EL falcon front sway bar too, once all of this is sorted out should be all clear to enjoy it for a while more until we get around to strapping some snails to the sides... :))

Some boring pics from today, will try and keep more coming as I work through the list!



Got myself an EL falcon front sway bar and installed it last night - cost me $20 complete! Forgot to measure it but its heaps bigger than the volvo ones I have here! We used some 5mm bar under the D bush brackets to space it down just slightly for safe clearance with the sump, apart from that it has the (I believe normal) angle on the linkages on the LCAs and sits pretty close to the brake lines under car weight, we gently maneuvered the bracket and brake lines slightly more out of the way and will monitor it when the car is all back together if it needs further modification. Also sits right on the lip of the chassis next to the D bushes, not sure if thats how mine has gone in or if normal, if it creaks I'll pull it back out and massage the lip or something!


(excuse the mess from pulling everything apart, oil and ATF everywhere)

I think due to the massive front sway bar that is in there now, stock rear sway and the locked diff I may introduce a little more under steer than before (won't know until road testing) what is the most common upgrade for the back? We often connect two rear sway bars together on a lot of our budget builds and works OK but would rather a cheap bolt in like what we've done in the front if any? Off the shelf shiny ones are off the cards for the moment..

Pulled all the auto transmission lines and fittings off and am looking at creating brand new lines and using new fittings into the box for peace of mind due to the lack of room there with the exhaust. With everything removed and just the box sitting bare it can now select L/1st gear so something with the trans lines as we expected and or the DS exhaust down pipe JUST stops the selector moving a few mm to properly select the L gear.

Ben also picked up the exhaust and is going to patch/tidy up any leaks we had on it, once all of these pieces are sorted I'll do the other side rocker cover gasket and she'll be back on the road and (hopefully) better than ever.
Could have given you an ef sway.......
Double sways on the back has been done.
They can take out brake lines if the wrong angle too.