How are you and the move going? I have holidays next week. Coffee?
13 days later
It's been The 140 Week Of Travels.



Larry the 144 came over on the ship on Saturday night, after an all-day drive from Katoomba. Unfortunately the SU problem raised its head again about 150 kays out of Melbourne, making me more determined that ever to dump the stupid things. New floats and new fuel needles and seats didn't fix the problem with fuel surge and fuel dribbling out of the breathers.

But Chloe left the mountains a while ago.


And only arrived today, to join her fellow kinsfolk.


But currently doesn't start, which is somewhat annoying.


She appears to lack spark, and I will have to investigate why - she was running before she left and was driven onto the trucks.


What's with our 145's not starting!
bigal;c-142221 wroteWhat's with our 145's not starting!
I don't know! Have you confirmed the problem is with that Bosch part in yours? (JFYI, iPD is having a Bosch sale at the moment). I can't appear to get any spark from mine. Just wondering if the points copped a lot of water and won't work. Although Chloe has a non-original coil in her. @egads (she/her), did you replace the coil at any point?
Never touched the coil myself. Points being shaken to death maybe?
^ Heh. Yeah, maybe... Or just waterlogged. Just as well I've got a spare Lumenition for it. Might put that in after I deal with Larry's heater fan.
I'll get back to mine tomorrow arvo. Looking forward to finding out what it is. Good to know about the bosch sale. ?
The last issue I had with B20 ignition was with the dizzy. I changed it and everything worked again. I put it down to one of the small internal wires grounding or having a broken sheath. Either that or the points were fritzed. I haven't bothered investigating.
5 days later
In recent events, Chloe got a new Temporary Protection Visa in place of the RR cargo area window, just to keep the weather out.


I have a new late model rear window seal that will be fitted once the rust in that panel has been dealt with.

The no-start condition was overcome by fitting this.


At least temporarily; Chloe ran for about 5 minutes... and then went back to no spark. Popped the dizzy cap, no obvious problems that I could see before I ran out of light.

When the weather clears, I'll investigate further with the multimeter.


You still have a better chance of getting it going than my 145 no start problem. Looking forward to catching up and seeing your plans. I need to develop a plan myself.

For some reason I have had several occasions when the carbon contact in the cap was no good and jammed. A not so good manufacturing error about 20 years ago, can be hard to sort that there is no rotor top contact.
1971_144GL;142579 wroteYou still have a better chance of getting it going than my 145 no start problem.
Hee hee. :)

Well, Chloe's no-start follies are over. This was the (second) culprit.


The Lumenition opto-switch appears to have a bad lead, or had a lead shorting to ground, or something. This led to a few very frustrating hours - and were I not already follicley-challenged, I would likely have torn my hair out in that time.

Being intermittent in nature made the problem very hard to find, as I'd test the system with dizzy cap off, and all was well. Put it back on again, and .... no spark. After replacing leads, rotor button, and dizzy cap, I tested the opto system, After wiggling the wires inside the dizzy following another good-test-then-no-spark event, I discovered that the voltages at the opto-sensor were all wrong. Luckily, I'd ordered 2 kits years ago, so I put the second sensor in.

Fixed!

Now to see what's gone wrong with the first one - whether it's damaged insulation on a lead or leads which was/ were framing, or an open circuit lead.
2 years later

Long time since an update.

And the news isn't good.

A while back, the main fuel pump died. Necropsy revealed much crud.

A while back, the 2-inch-long pressure line between the pump and the accumulator failed, and it was jury rigged to get the car running. Which it did for a little while until the pump locked solid.

So the pump and accumulator had to come out. Not an easy task when the mounting cushions fail!

A used K-jet pump was donated to me by a kind soul, and it had a good accumulator join pipe. My iPD order with new cushions is some time away, as is my order for metric fuel hose, which wasn't in stock at the local Volvo dealer. So I did an temporary assembly of pump and accumulator.

Then did a temporary fitting to the car. Just so I could get the damned thing to move under its own power and free up the driveway.

Filled with hope, I charged the battery, refilled the tank with 40 litres of juice, turned the key, let it crank, and.....

Nothing.

The replacement pump is cactus. It's weeping fuel from the front of the pump and the electrical connector.

I do have a spare K-ket pump and accumulator from a 240, complete with a mounting bracket.

Now I will have to work out a way to fit the 240 K-Jet pump temporarily so I can move the thing. There's no bracket on a 140 for mounting the FP under the LR passenger's seat so improvisation is necessary.

Present needs saw the spare K-jet pump and cradle unit in the shed, which was destined for the 240 still on the mainland being repurposed so I could, with luck at least, move the 145 around the yard under its own power.

*** Warning: extreme bodgy follows ***

A temporary fitting of the unit was made to the wagon. I ran the fuel hoses up to the FP and accumulator through the tank sender access hole. In the pile of spares, I also found a spare pump harness from a 740, meaning I could plug the pump into the 145's loom without chopping anything up.

Hooked it up, no leaks.

Powered it up; still no leaks.

The pump ran happily, got up to pressure, and then......

.....promptly burst the jumper hose between the accumulator and the main fuel line.

Damned 40 year old plastic hose...

On a K-Jet 140, there's a 290mm piece of plastic fuel pipe [36] that runs from the pressure side of the accumulator to an M12x1.5 double male nipple [38A], which then connects to 3,720mm more plastic fuel hose [39] up to the fuel filter in the engine bay. Thankfully I won't have to replace all of it (just yet!), but it looks like a trip to the local Enzed or Pirtek is on the cards to get the short piece.

This series of dramas began when the two rubber mounts [28] began to decompose, which ended up breaking the 45mm of plastic hose [33] between the FP and accumulator. The moral of this story is - if you have a K-Jet 140, change those mid-seventies mounts now. It will save you much hassle later.

5 days later

Qapla'! (or 'success', for the non-nerds)

Chloe starts and runs! At least enough to be moved into a less inconvenient position in the yard.

It appears the mass fuel ejection occurred due to a fuel return line disconnecting itself from the top of the sender unit, so it wasn't necessary to replace the plastic fuel hose after all. I speculate the return line popped when it saw more return fuel pressure than it's probably seen in 10 or more years, thanks to the fresher 240 5-Bar fuel pump.

The car hadn't started in about 14 months, so it was very pleasing when the B20E kicked into life once it had fuel pressure. At first idle was a little rough, but that passed once it got used to running and warmed up a bit.

The temporary fix is still in there. For the permanent fix, I'm torn between doing a standard upgrade fitting nicely and properly, like @DCW242 did on an early 240 using a 0 580 464 126 pump, or replacing the tank with an alloy drop tank, lift pump, later 240-type bracket and pump cradle, or doing the latter but with a standard later 240 tank.

Is there any interest out here in arranging to get a small run of 240 drop tanks made?

But there is much bodywork to be done first before a final decision is needed.

8 days later

Perhaps something her might get you out of trouble?

The pump with jump hose, bracket and accumulator looks nice, please let me know desired dollars.

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