Slowbrick
Mine was smooth even after the +T using the brains from a 740 turbo. Just gotta keep em happy.
GingerNinja
I tried the suggestions above and here's where I ended up.
I checked the wiring around the distributor and it seems solid but I can't get to much of it without removing the intake manifold.
I unplugged everything and the car starts no problem. Idle is rough but it runs and doesn't stall when I press the throttle.The TPS sensor clicks as it opens and shuts. TPS and CTS don't seem to change the way the car idles even after it warms up.
I plugged the AMM back in and it idles much smoother. I also soldered and used heat shrink on the wiring where the harness had been chopped and lengthened during the engine swap.
I plugged the IAC back in and the idle speed dropped a few hundred rpm and wanders up and down +/- 100rpm. Idle is much rougher. I tried to drive it up the street but it wouldn't go. I unplugged the IAC and the idle is rock solid at 1000rpm and sounds very smooth. I drive it around the streets no problem. I plug the IAC back in and it doesn't seem to change the way the car runs now it's properly warmed up.
I've got another IAC from my n/a car I could try if that's worth a shot?
Slowbrick
Ok so looks like you have found the problem. I had this issue about 5 months ago. With the IAC plugged in wiggle the wiring bulkhead on the passenger side near the wiper motor. If it hunts or carries on then the wiring in there is most likely corroded and sending funky signals to the ECU.
Cj1992
If you found the issue thats good i was going to suggest checking the main power wire from the ecu to the ezk unit mine broke somewhere in the loom which was cause an intermittant stutter especially under load i changed everything like the dizzy afm ignition module until i found that wire broken the car ran good but it must of done something to the ecu because it eventually wouldnt run again so i megasquirted it and ran good ever since
GingerNinja
I'll try cleaning the IAC tomorrow and check the wiring to it. Hopefully this is the problem but if it isn't then I'll check the ecu/ezk wiring.
egads
Can't you just run without an IAC on lh2.2?
Cj1992
It should let you aslong as your air/idle screw is set right when i had lh2.2 with ezk117 i removed it but left it plugged in and just plugged the hoses with bolts and it ran okay but once i went MS i completely deleted the iac and just ran through the screw
GingerNinja
No idea. I'll unplug it and try starting it cold and see what happens.
Cj1992
Have you checked your ballast resistors for the injectors it might sound stupid but if there failing the injectors wont fire properly ive come across that a couple of times with volvos.
Slowbrick
LH2.2 will work fine without the IAC. I ran mine without it all last winter when I was having a similar issue to you and couldnt figure out what it was. It will mean that on real cold starts it may not like idling smooth but once its warm it will be fine. My bet is on the wiring being a little screwy or the IAC itself being faulty. Looks like you have some direction with it now though!
volvodriverman
Cj1992;51345 wroteHave you checked your ballast resistors for the injectors it might sound stupid but if there failing the injectors wont fire properly ive come across that a couple of times with volvos.
not an issue on this car, doesn't run them & has v70t red injectors.
Cj1992
Alright all good i had greentops so mine had the resistors and a couple of others ive worked on.
Slowbrick
Most people dont bother with the resistor pack in +T's these days. FWD turbo injectors are getting easy to get so no need for green tops :)
Cj1992
Ahh fair enough it shows how far behind the times i am lol
Slowbrick
More and more FWD turbos in scrap yards hahaha
Cj1992
Yes that is true because you get idiots that can't handle a bit of boost lol
Slowbrick
Their lack of care is our gain! Orangetops and bluetops are aplenty!
GingerNinja
I tried driving it tonight while it was really cold and it doesn't go. I plugged and unplugged the IAC but it didn't change. It really does seem to be a low rpm problem when the engine is cold so it might be worth trying to fix the IAC. Waiting for it to warm up during a Tassie winter could take all day.
egads
Do you have an idle screw to mess with to get you out of trouble? Mark where it is now and adjust it enough that it has a cold idle that works and run that until you can fix the IAC.
GingerNinja
Is that the large one under the throttle body? I'll try that tomorrow.