jamesinc
The photo nick put up is the key switch I'm referring to. They're cool, and mean you can't accidentally put the ECU into flash mode.
Vee_Que
What's on a s40? Be good to use this if I stick that motor in my 122..
nickm
A different system the "Siemens EMS2000" ..still you do get 200hp stock but better suited to a lighter car. The power delivery of the T4 is very different to the T5. Much more streetable heaps quicker spool but not as much torque or top end power..
Rob
jamesinc;45280 wroteI am good with circuit boards. Would you be interested in a key switch (i.e. the switch is you putting a key in and turning it). I like key switches.
Yes. count me in.
Rob
so am I sending them to you James?
Also @clinton , I have a spare 4.4 NA ecu here. Do you know if it can it be set up to run a turbo car?
clinton
You need to solder something on the na ECUs only if you want to get boost control working iirc. So if you have an external boost controller, you can use it as is, but half the fun with playing with the ECU is controlling boost...
Rob
I figured it was pretty much useless. Not worth the bother.
Ghettobird
Also dont forget to mention the possibility of running COP on the M4.4s, exactly what im doing for my 240 T5 swap right now
Im planning on having a fighter jet style toggle switch in my 240s glove box next to my obd 2 connector, when I want to flash the ECU its a matter of flicking the switch and flashing :)
Also important is that youll loose your immobiliser if you start loading these custom bins up
clinton
I have always wondered about the immobiliser. Is there any way to check if it is/isnt disabled? My car still behaves like normal, and I believe the red LED on top of the dash still comes on when I lock the car...
Ex850R
The immobiliser is a seperate unit , @asiandriver is the man for that expert knowledge but i suppose it has to talk to the ECU proper. No reason the IMOB cant still be wired in to work i imagine?
@clinton , Will ( @asiandriver ) has the reader/ Volvo tool to sort all that out , you can send him the unit i believe?
clinton
I dont worry about the immobilizer working, I was more thinking that if it is not in fact working, I may be able to get a second key cut cheaply without having to get it programmed. Or is that something else altogether?
nickm
The immobilizer is a separate unit as is the key transponder. I don't think the code on the keys are unique.
Both units send signals to the ECU to allow it to start so the ECU does not control these functions.
Ex850R
The ring around the ign key is sensor so you need right key. Maybe if immob is delered it wont matter?
nickm
pretty sure there is a control unit connected to the ring sensor part no. "9162598" that sends an okay signal to the ECU.
asiandriver
Key transponder is part of the immobiliser system. Antenna ring around the ignition reads the transponder code, and if missing / incorrect the immobiliser control unit 9162598 will tell the engine ECU to shut down 2 seconds after engine starts.
Red LED on top of dash is normally connected to the car's alarm & remote locking system. Starter motor circuit passes through the alarm & remote locking relay so if the alarm is triggered (unauthorised entry) it'll sound the alarm horn & disconnect the starter motor. Alarm & remote locking isn't connected to the engine ECU so even if this is triggered you can still start the car by hot-wiring, assuming you pull out the alarm & remote locking relay & reconnect the starter motor circuit.
Only the French & Belgium markets have the dash LED connected to the immobiliser system due to insurance requirements. All other markets the dash LED indicates alarm status & has nothing to do with the immobiliser.
Vee_Que
nickm;45328 wroteA different system the "Siemens EMS2000" ..still you do get 200hp stock but better suited to a lighter car. The power delivery of the T4 is very different to the T5. Much more streetable heaps quicker spool but not as much torque or top end power..
I want the na motor for the 122 actually.
Jackson
Hey all, I've been having a go at DIY tuning, and I'm wondering if anyone else has had the same trouble I'm having. I'm working on a 97 850 T5 with Motronic 4.3. Firstly, here is what I have done:
- Bought and fiddled with 3 different USB to K-line cables. In the end, probably could have gotten the first one to work.
- Finally managed to connect to the ECU through the OBD port using Motronic Suite.
- Bought an NA M4.4 ECU.
- Didn't test if it worked first.
- Opened it up and made a couple of solder bridges (as shown in the Tuners Rejoice thread) to hopefully enable turbo actuation.
- Set up TunerPro software and wiring according to the wiki, ready for flashing.
- Couldn't connect to it in normal mode, or bootmode.
- Tried in car. Crank, crank, nothing. I figure I either I broke it, or it was a dud to start with. As far as I'm aware, I should've been able to just swap it in, and the car would at least fire up.
- In my frustration I decided to take a risk and bench-flash the working M4.3 ECU with a very slightly modified binary. It worked, and my car still runs! (Just a note that may help others. I had to download the .NET Framework in order to get the flasher plugin to work.)
Now, for some reason, I can't connect to the working M4.3 ECU in normal communication mode. Maybe I'm doing something silly, but I can't help but think I've broken something. Perhaps there's someone else out there working with M4.3, and they can step me through how they got data logging working? I thought I would try on here before posting something on Volvospeed.
Anyway, I'm sort of excited about tuning this car now. Ideally, I would be able to find a M4.4 ECU and get it to work with logging functionality. If someone is willing to sell a spare one they have laying around, I would be interested.
Rob
I have an NA 4.4 ECU you can have if you want it, don't have any turbo ones left
Jackson
Rob, that'd be awesome. I'll PM you.
jamesinc
@Clinton, regarding the climate control mod, do you know if I can plug my 4.4 ECU into my 850 and flash the software mod via the OBD-II port, or do I have to flash it before plugging it into the car for the first time?
I am trying to establish whether it gets fried on connect, or just when you go to reds.
