BodenM
Rob;54963 wroteNot having much luck there.
As much as I hate it, I guess these things (and P2 XC's) dont get their reputation for nothing
S80s got a rep for blowing up transmissions and eating coilpacks, surprisingly of which mine has done neither (
*TOUCHES WOOD*), not popping upper rad hoses haha.
clinton
Don't jump to conclusions, get a new hose, fill her up with water and take it from there.
This could have happened to any car... A good hose should handle a good amount of pressure before it pops, and by that stage, coolant should have been spraying out from under the cap (which is very noticeable). So my tip is that the hose was somehow damaged from the past.
BodenM
this is true. Unforunately do88 don't make silicone radiator hoses for the 6cyl S80s, only 5cyl P2s else I would have bought some already haha. While it's off the road I'm going to take the time to redo the cooling system from scratch anyway, alloy rad, nice fat external transmission cooler and a water to air intercooler. Poor radiator is probably full of little bits of rubber by now anyway haha.
Rob
Water to air intercooler, really?
BodenM
Yes. Stock intercooler is crap on P2s, heat soaks like crazy, has rather small inlets and outlets, has plastic end tanks and doesn't do a very good job of cooling the intake charge. the do88 cooler is stupidly expensive and S80s don't have the room to run full 2.5" piping to an FMIC, and the bumper blocks most of any A2A core from receiving any airflow. W2A setup drastically shortens the intake piping, cools better, takes longer to heat soak, and I can use a core that will be mostly covered in airflow instead of just only getting flow over a portion of it.
BodenM
Even got a photo of the S80 on track :D
Vee_Que
W2a is a waste of money vs making a 5cyl one or generic one from ebay fit. In fact, what do they look like?
BodenM
Vee_Que;55106 wroteW2a is a waste of money vs making a 5cyl one or generic one from ebay fit. In fact, what do they look like?
It's the exact same as every other non-R turbo petrol P2 (so yes the do88 one fits S80 T6s perfectly as well but I'm not paying $500+ for an air-to-air intercooler when I could piece together a water-to-air kit for less money and get better cooling, shorter charge path and less pressure drop). However the actual front end metal on the S80 is different to S60s and V70s, so unless you enjoy cutting holes in your front end (yeah, no thanks) you have to step down to 2 or 2.25" to run a non-stock style FMIC because 2.5" piping will not fit, and because of the S80's small grille openings you don't gain that much from an upgraded FMIC anyway. If I go water-to-air, I can use a long, narrow radiator for that, to utilise all of the lower grille space the S80 front bar has, plus I don't have to deal with reducing piping diameter.
Vee_Que
Yeah... for a qaulity pump you will be up for more money, and there are do88 copies that are just are durable as the originals for half the cost for a start, to get it welded to suit the smaller pipes isn't Much more work and cutting the front... Where exactly?
BodenM
If you were going to cut for 2.5" piping the only place you could cut is where the stock piping goes through, and you would also have to cut the reo bar at the front for clearance. Also, if do88 copies exist for P2s I dunno where you're finding them because the usual haunts for clones like that (Alibaba and eBay) are returning nothing. And even with a quality pump a water to air setup is cheaper than the do88 cooler, and the do88 cooler still won't touch the W2A cooler for efficiency nor heat soak resistance.
Vee_Que
Is that why so many cars use w2a then on dailies? Its great for a drag car, anything else.... Good luck with it.
Vee_Que
Oh wow. I didn't click there, p2 not p80, I think I may need to come up with a cheaper option, but the size of it looks good just not thick enough.
Cutting the reo isn't that big a deal, but I reckon a generic thicker one will do. But the car wwillbe dead within two years if you intend to drive it hard, particularly on a student budget....
BodenM
Vee_Que;55136 wroteIs that why so many cars use w2a then on dailies? Its great for a drag car, anything else.... Good luck with it.
The main reasons why people don't use W2A are perceived cost and complexity, also a lack of knowledge. In fact they're quite common in the 4x4 world because they take a looooong time to achieve complete heat soak (and the more water you have in the system the longer that takes as well), which is a godsend when you're crawling around at low speeds but still on boost. And considering how prone the stocker intercooler is to heat soak and how rubbish it is at cooling (still better than nothing though) on P2s anything to improve that is great. Hell even when I was on track, despite being 18-20 degrees outside, the post-IC IAT sensor never showed temps dropping below 38 degrees at any stage, and was peaking at about 60 degrees. Only time it ever gets anywhere close to ambient is when you're rolling down the highway at a steady cruise, and even then it takes a while if you've just come out of traffic, where IATs soar into the 60+ range. The do88 cooler, while better and a well designed bit of kit that makes the most of the compromised stock mounting location, isn't that much better still, certainly not worth the price it fetches IMHO.
Ex850R
Cos they go the easiest , cheapest and less complex route by just putting an A/A one on.
In our hot summers I have seen marked boost loss , I have parts for one as well and my intake to IC outlet is about 8". The TURBO to IC inlet maybe 18".
BodenM
Ex850R;55199 wroteCos they go the easiest , cheapest and less complex route by just putting an A/A one on.
In our hot summers I have seen marked boost loss , I have parts for one as well and my intake to IC outlet is about 8". The TURBO to IC inlet maybe 18".
Exactly. Also if my IATs are hitting low 60s in winter, they must be astronomically hot in summer.
Vee_Que
you think that. The reality doesn't quite line up the same. After changing my cars core to one double the stock thickness with aluminium end tanks, except for 30+ degree days that you really shouldn't push the car too hard, it makes 15psi at night and during the day.
the only time It really matters is if you drag race, on a race track, which is great to do, but in a huge boat like your s80, isn't realistic vs a smaller 850 etc with a manual. that's when I get the most heat soak. Co incedently its drag cars that use them the most that I know for the same reason. 4x4s would use them due to high engine speed, low road speed. Your car won't be doing that and worrying so much about that. Imo is not necessar. Though the turbos on your car will not be helping tempa being so small and running near The edge of Thier efficiency.
BodenM
Plans for the car do include tracking it more frequently as well as spirited mountain runs, so something that can resist heat soaking better will be much appreciated.
As for the car's status, I'm currently awaiting new radiator hoses and heater core clips from FCP (should be here next Wednesday) as well as a new heater core (could be here anywhere between next Tuesday and Friday the 14th, thanks eBay) since mine must have leaked at some point since I bought it, because there's a lovely Volvo-coolant-blue-coloured stain on my passenger side carpet, plus my heater doesn't work still. If this doesn't fix it I don't know what's wrong with the heater. Once the car is running again I'm going to get a combustion leak test done on it to see if I have a bad HG, cracked head, cracked cylinder liner or something else that would cause excess pressure in the cooling system plus the occasional white smoke I get (although I'm not entirely convinced that it's smoke, could just be the usual steam from the cold temps we've been having). Also have negotiated with a mate to grab him a carton in exchange for him welding up a 3" catback with the spare 8m of 3" tube and elbows he has, I just need to provide a muffler and a tip for it (as fun as a straight pipe would be the loud drone would drive me insane, a single muffler should kill *most* of the drone, else I'll figure out how to make a Helmholtz resonator to cancel out the drone).
Philia_Bear
Have you put in a bypass relay on the main fan so it's running at 100% all the time while your on the track?
This made a massive difference on my wagon for iat when I started tracking it
BodenM
Philia_Bear;55547 wroteHave you put in a bypass relay on the main fan so it's running at 100% all the time while your on the track?
This made a massive difference on my wagon for iat when I started tracking it
nope, although at QR where average speeds are pretty high (they don't call it the paperclip for no reason :P) I can't imagine that would make too much of a difference. Might give it a try anyway though, put it on a switch so I can toggle it at will.
EDIT: you've given me a great idea, going to stock up on some STC switches from the Bay of E and see I can give it an OEM-esque install.
Philia_Bear
BodenM;55549 wrotePhilia_Bear;55547 wroteHave you put in a bypass relay on the main fan so it's running at 100% all the time while your on the track?
This made a massive difference on my wagon for iat when I started tracking it
nope, although at QR where average speeds are pretty high (they don't call it the paperclip for no reason :P) I can't imagine that would make too much of a difference. Might give it a try anyway though, put it on a switch so I can toggle it at will.
EDIT: you've given me a great idea, going to stock up on some STC switches from the Bay of E and see I can give it an OEM-esque install.
You would be surprised... I found with the 940 Wagon (running no grill) that has a much larger opening then a S80... that the fan on high made significant differences to IAT and trans temperatures when even doing 110KPH+ while under heavy load
