JaredK
Hey guys, my name is Jared, and I'm from Port Macquarie, NSW.
I've been thinking about taking on a Volvo build lately, but have a few questions regarding the make and engine swaps that people have done in the past.
Basically i want to know what the easiest build is to do. I'm looking at either a 240 or 740 (open to other suggestions) and a 1jzgte/2jzgte engine swap. I've seen all combinations done before but i want to know which is the easiest with the least fabrication work required (moving firewalls, tunnels, subframes... all that stuff).
This will be a budget build so i want to keep on road costs under $15000 over a year or 2. I have found engines for less than 2 grand, and will rebuild myself.. however i have no skills in fab work so i'd like to keep this project out of a shop as much as possible. I realise this won't be easy, and i'm willing to allow for it.
Any help and suggestions are appreciated, many thanks,
Jared.
Vee_Que
Tunnel work etc isn't an issue. The sump will need to be the right one and then cut. The 740 will be an easier base for room but why do you want to do a 1/2jz conversion for? As in, what is your power goal and useage? The turbo volvo 2.3 will make over 400hp and probably can cost less given no real need for engineering and you will need to buy bigger turbos for any motor and computers etc
JaredK
I'm going to be using the car as a daily, so huge power isn't necessary, but always good. I'm keeping budget in mind basically - haven't looked at other volvo swaps as i assumed they would cost more. How much do the stock 2.3's make? Are they the one's out of the 850? But basically the 1/2jz idea was so that i could upgrade if i have the money in the future (always readily available & cheap parts for them)
Vee_Que
Pm sent. No the 2.3 is the factory 4 cyl for Australian delivered turbo volvos in 740 and 940s.
iceton1975
I have 3 of my turbo 740s for sale on ebay if your intrested
Slowbrick
Theres a guy in Sydney who did an RB26 for about 3k into a 240. I dont think he is on here but its a pretty good build and he managed to slap it together pretty quick and pretty cheap.
iceton1975
But does it have a cert, to be on the road?
Vee_Que
No it doesn't. And it was a rb25. He's after a wagon ideally too.
Slowbrick
No it doesnt. My mistake I didnt realise it was a 25. I've seen it in person and honestly for what is essentially a junkyard build it has been done extremely well. It wouldnt take much to have it tidied up and certified if it needed to be.
JaredK
would definitely be hard to source a wagon & rb engine - then fitting it for under 3k... for me any way, not having fabrication experience. Definitely a good idea though
iceton1975
There is a guy doing one to a 245 I sold him now, should be on the road soon
jamesinc
I think if you don't have fabrication experience it makes a lot more sense to stick with the stock motors. You can get fun levels of power out of them quite easily by just slapping a bigger turbo on. Get a 90+ 740 turbo as a starting point, you should have a good strong block and good manifold, and you can just put a bigger turbo on it and chip the ECU and it'll still behave nicely day-to-day but give you a wallop when you put your foot down.
Philia_Bear
Ls1 or 1uz are easier swaps and simpler as well
JaredK
Im not one for chip tuning just because ive seen so many cars damaged from a bad tune. That said, i plan on doing internals too so a tune at the end of the build would definitely happen. I think ive settled on modifying the stock motor and maybe down the track swapping in a v8. I have a mate with a celsior - stock 1uz, awesome engine, think id go ls1 just cause theyre a much more commonly built engine
jamesinc
To be honest you probably won't even need to chip. If you get a 740 or 940 turbo with Bosch LH-Jetronic 2.4 engine management (not LH-2.2 which is open loop), you can pretty much do whatever and the ECU will "learn" the configuration automatically. It's a very safe system for messing with, as the ECU will, when in doubt, go rich. I used to run 14psi and it would enrichen the mixture at full boost to 11:1, well in the safe zone. Could probably have run more like 12.5:1 but then you'd have to start messing with custom ECUs.
Anyway, the lesson is LH-2.4: utterly indestructible.
jamesinc
Oh and another thing about LH-Jetronic - these cars will still limp home with virtually every sensor failed.
JaredK
i'll have a look into it :) was wondering what i'd do about engine management, if haltech even did stuff for volvo's... but even still they're hell expensive, i'll definitely check out the bosch.
What does everyone think of T5's? worth messing with?
Jamest5r_
T5's are worth messing with only if you change the chocolate rods, low down boost eats them for breakfast :)
timbo
Considering a set of $400 rods is the only thing stopping you from pushing 350 -400hp the t5s are a good option for a comfy daily driver
Ex850R
Peeps get away with STD rods with boost upped.
There is one on VS that is making a point of getting as much power as can on a STD , out of the junkyard motor and doing well.
I suppose , like anything , you are at the mercy of how the thing has been treated before.
I have a set of I beam forged rods waiting on the shelf but have put the ARD 19psi tune on my v70T lpt with none of the extra mods I specified to Lucky when he built the tune for me and it is boosting hard down low apart from a suspected wastegate leak and sensors giving me rich mixture , ( which probably helps !!) its fine.
Am putting into my project R an NA low K motor with all the bits off the R motor and the ARD tune for shits n giggles.
At least till I build a motor with those rods , possibly an RN motor....