I’ve had a lot of wheels that I have repaired or have repaired. I have not had a repair fail.
The regulation around wheel repairs are like so much of the regulation around automotive repair and modification: it is simplistic and intended to protect the most stupid and incompetent from themselves, rather than anything to do with good practice or reasonable risk mitigation.
So…
I am pretty certain that Volvo deliberately make their wheels soft to enhance crash test performance. A soft wheel deforms and dissipates energy in a crash, where a more solid wheel is going to try to join you in the cabin.
This is great, until you have a low profile tyre and crappy Australian roads.
As a rule:
European wheels are soft;
Australian, New Zealand, Indonesian made wheels are robust;
Japanese and Thai wheels can be soft or robust or anywhere in between. There is a bit of a guide depending on how the are marketed, but it is not perfectly reliable.
Chinese aftermarket wheels are generally very brittle, and will break chunks out rather than bending.
The absolute softest wheels I have encountered were made in Brazil, but that was one set so it statistically irrelevant.
If I was in Boxy’s position, I would be looking for a way to get some more tyre sidewall onto a genuine Volvo rim. This might need some juggling between wheel diameter, brake clearance, and wheel arch clearance, but should be possible.
I would also try to get a sense of which of the genuine FWD wheels are more or less robust. My sample size is far too small to say this with confidence, but it seems that the 17” P1 T5 wheels are fairly robust.